God sometimes gives us unexpected gifts. Our gift has been a grandson who enlivens our lives and makes retirement very different than the one we anticipated. He is a special joy. And that's "Casey." In 2006 we fulfilled our dream of living in Italy for a year. It was every bit as wonderful as anticipated. This blog begins in 2005 as we prepared for that experience. Since then we have explored many places together. That's the "Travel." And finally, I am a person of opinions--spiritually, politically, on just about anything and that's the "Other Stuff." Welcome to my blog.
Reminiscing--what a gift the digital camera has been to the bitter-sweet joy of looking backward! Childhood memories, which are so soon lost, burst alive again in vivid, full screen pictures. It is as if the camera has been set to time exposure as children grow before our eyes.
Casey doesn't remember Ecuador until I bring out the picture books and suddenly he recalls minute details. God, in his unfathomable creativity, has given our minds filing cabinets where all is catalogued and stored to be reclaimed at some point in life's journey. Thank you, God.
So... the last three short slideshows of summer 2011. These pictures are our memories thus a little short on famous places and "must sees". They are family landmarks, so to speak which, if the internet lasts, Casey can show his children (and grandchildren) someday. (Previous Three)
(Heads up: There is music so you may want to turn down sound.)
Greve-in-Chianti--Our Italian Home Town
Cortona--Love it Here
Assisi--Last Stop 2011
Our memories of 2011--of course, each slide, for us, triggers so much more. Hope you can feel them, too.
When we were beginning the arduous planning for our year in Italy, Cortona was one of the places we considered. We had visited the town twice on previous trips and liked it; plus, I had a friend from SlowTravel who not only lived there but had a son Casey's age which was important to us. Ale, my friend, even scouted out a of couple apartments for us. But...we ended up in Greve instead.
Now, five years later, we finally got our boys together and within minutes of meeting a true friendship formed. Ale and I ended up saying "they're like the same person in two bodies" because their interests and likes seem/are so much alike. Matteo is older than Casey by just two weeks. What a friendship they would have had if we had lived there. Now Cortona will be a prescribed stop on future pilgrimages to Italy.
Matteo for Casey...
and Ale for me.
Alessandra (Ale) is a warm, fun, energetic, engaging woman. Also ...opinionated, out-spoken and multi-faceted. In other words, my kind of person. I would have thoroughly enjoyed her friendship if we had chosen Cortona as our home that year. Maybe we should think of doing an encore.
Ale has just been included in a list of the 100 best cooking schools in Italy --sorry, but I forget which magazine. Considering that there are hundreds of cooking schools in Italy, this is quite an honor. She is good. I spoke with a couple who had taken one of her lessons and they totally raved about her. In their journal they have included The section "things we have learned from Alessandra." I suggested they start a blog and list these so others could benefit.
Alessandra also has a shop in Cortona, Girasole which features jewelry and artifacts fashioned after that in the Etruscan Museum in the palazzo across the street from her shop. Her jewelry is featured in the National Geographic catalogue--pretty impressive.
Her shop also has beautiful linens which are reproductions of that of the renaissance, terracotta articles and items reflective of Tuscsany. It's difficult to peruse her shop and leave empty handed--I can't. Several years ago I bought Etruscan jewelry. This time it was unique Tuscan motif jewelry..and, sale and pepe grinders with bronze tops which will make great conversation pieces at dinner and good menories for us.
All of Alessandra's wares are made in Italy and come from within 200 kms of Cortona. She personally knows and has selected each artisan and manufacturer featured in Girasole. Quality is the trademark.
We had two fun filled dinners and evenings with Ale, Marino and the kids, Matteo and Francesca, who is 9 and, I believe, developed a crush on teenager Casey.
The first night, after dinner, we joined the music and dancing in the piazza. Well, we just listened and watched as mostly college age kids did the dancing part. We were content with our gelato and friends.
The next night we had a truly one-of-kind unique Tuscan/Italian experience--the American Saloon with an authentic western decor and an equally authentic, traditional Tuscan menu.
Franco, the owner, is enamored of all things cowboy and must surely have been one in a previous life. He also raises owls. Quite a character.
Dinner was fun with a mixture of English and Italian--well, mostly Italian. We were joined by Donatella and Roberto, friends of Ale and Marino.
A fun night.
One more thing to mention. The lovely B&B where we stayed..wonderfully situated on the main street in Cortona Casa Chilenne. Breakfast includes home made pastries, eggs as you like, waffles, meats...just about anything you would want Everything about the place is top quality from fluffy towels to decor to beds to all. It even has chair lifts to all 4 floors for people who would need that service. Amazing place and delightful owners. We will return next time unless we get an apartment for a week or so.
So, you have the highlights of our time in Cortona. There was more but this is long enough. Thank you Ale, friend, for having so much time for us. a presto!
OK--haven't posted for a while but do want to stay alive--for those of you who check in once in a while. I am working on a post "to" Casey but that'll come sometime in the future--it's a rather difficult one. Hopefully, there will be a few between then and now.
Anyway--a friend posted this on FB today and I liked it--kind of fun. So, to break the silence...
Blogging lately has become a challenge as I don't have a focus--no living in Italy, no interesting travel observations, no current passion (in terms of opinions, that is,) no life upheavals--just day-to-day living which doesn't hold much excitement for me yet alone for someone else. So--it is a dry spell. Maybe things will pick up in Kenya a few months done the road.
But, then, I did see this today which perked the spirits and gave a smile. Since my great distaste for smarmy SP has not abated, this was sheer enjoyment. If TF would do more, then maybe SP would loss her appeal as she is left stripped and exposed.
If anyone has wondered where I've been and why it is been longer than usual between posts and why comments have not been answered--just chalk it up to the boggled mental state that accompanies a house full of carpenters, painters, plumbers, tilers, electricians, granite men, fireplace installers, wall finishers, contractor and whomever else wandered in and out over the last few weeks. I'm half inclined to believe that some never really belonged here and just came in for the entertainment. In the midst of this we had tree surgeons cutting way back my lovely, huge eucalyptus tree that shaded our bedroom and provided privacy from the lookie-loos on the hill above. The fact that it was a fire danger to us and our neighbors seemed secondary to its more important purposes.
My friends served as continuous sources of encouragement through out this process--explaining that when it was all over, I would be glad for the stamina it took to see it through. And....they, of course, were right. I love the results and the memory is almost gone.
Of course, there are a few remaining odds and ends--such as the missing decorative piece to the fireplace and a few missed places for grouting. But all that will be fixed. One of the new power flush toilets that works on 1.28 gallons of water per flush is taking two flushes so that isn't good. Guess I will need to push for a replacement there. But...it does have an automatically closing lid which is nice and, of course, necessary.
So what did we do?
Kitchen: Changed out tile counter tops for granite; redid the tile floor with beautiful marble tiles, removed wall-paper and painted the walls--love it, plus odds and ends.
Family Room: Same marble tile floors, removed wall paper and painted the walls; depopcorned the ceiling; replaced wood burning fireplace with gas fireplace (works with remote control so just sit back, push the button and voila! instant fire and heat); had built beautiful cherry cabinets next to fireplace; surrounded fireplace with granite, installed recessed lighting and installed a 46" HDTV above the fireplace. What is really nice is that all the components are inside the cabinets and have infrared something or others which allow them to be activated through the wood doors.
Conversation Area in Living Room: Marble tiled the floor (was carpeted)
Guest Bathroom: Used left over granite for counter tops; denuded the wall papered walls and painted them; same marble floor as other rooms; new sink and hardware and the new low-flush toilet--this one is not the one that doesn't work.
Hallway: Marble flooring
And that's it folks!
Now--you can be entertained by watching the before, during and after slide show. At the end I threw in some backyard pictures for a fine group of people who will be here next March joining a big Slow Travel Get-Together. Sort of a little preview of things to come.
Things are quiet here today. The sounds of the vineyard are muted, the air is quiet, the birds seems subdued in their calls to one another and Casey is taking his first nap in six years. The children spent their energies yesterday and last night.
Their birthday party was the success it was meant to be even though Camilla’s day was last November and Casey’s is not until next week. The reunion with classmates and friends from last year abounded with laughter, joy and just plain fun. Watch for Casey’s blog entry complete with pictures and a slide show—coming soon. For now, enjoy this sneak preview of some of the fun in the sun.
Ken and I have spent the day so totally lazy that I am bored—a state of being I didn’t think possible here in the land of dreams. Maybe a trip into town for gelato will help—I think so. It’s worth a try—don’t you agree? Time to round up Casey and Camilla, giving an excuse to go….
********
We’re back and yes, gelato helped—a lot. I had albicocca and fiordilatte, quite good! Of course, since the children came with us a stop at L’Edicola was necessary in order to inspect Gromiti and animal cards which in turn meant spending vacation money—his not ours. For the uninitiated, these are Gromiti—previously only in Italy but lately migrated to the US. These, of course, are Italian.
I read today that creative, imaginative play is vital to growing up healthy. Clearly, Casey has no problem in this area and, with such criteria, will grow to be a very, very healthy man. I can relax.
Tomorrow he will spend the day at his friend Tommy’s house. This gives Ken and I time to do what we spent so many days doing while he was in school here—aimlessly driving, just to see. We have traveled many kilometers in such exploration but there are still a multitude of white roads to explore, little borgos to investigate and, of course, new places to find for lunch. This time I think we will go to Osteria le Panzanelle, a little place in Lucarelli, loved by many but, surprisingly, escaped by us before. This is good as "new" always holds anticipation. And..I will have another place to add to my Chianti recommendations of fine eateries.
Tomorrow will be another domani--a new day with much to stir the heart and share. I suspect there will be a country chapel, maybe some sheep, an evocative shrine, a curve with a surprising treat, something wonderful. Till then......time for a glass of chianti, fresh pasta and music.
Just a couple quickies today for those of you who check in to see what's new and find that nothing is. I seem to be somewhat short of topics that motivate me right now...except....
Yesterday Casey added a new name for me--following the gramma-mom of a couple weeks ago. Yesterday it was Mom at a Higher Level. I had to laugh both at the words and the little mind that would even think of this. Of course, it also touched my heart.
Then there is a video clip that I took at the local Spring Fest last weekend. It reminded me of Carnavale and other extravaganzas in Piazza Matteoti in Greve last year. The stilt people were always there and, of course, Camilla and Casey were always in awe.
Stilt performers amaze me, too. I wonder if it is as hard as it looks? Anyone know? The day was hot and you can see the shimmer in the air--not the best video but it tells the story.
Thursday was a special day for us as we went to what on Slow Travel is called a "get-together" or GTG. These are held frequently in venues all over the US and other countries as travelers find they will be in the same place at the same time.
This one was unusually rich as somewhere over 35 people came--travelers, ExPats and Italians. It was held in a lovely villa on the slopes right below Assisi. While many of us already knew each other, others we were meeting in person for the first time. But, as with all our Slow Travel relationships, we had "known" these others for long periods of time via conversations and sharing on the web.
It was incredible fun to get together with so many friends during our last days here in Bella Italia. We were able to say goodbye to many people we had spent time with here and meet new friends from the United States here on vacation. Many of these we will see again as they pass through San Diego or we go their way--and at future GTG's.
Of course, there was lots of good Umbrian food specially catered for the event--porchetta, prosciutto, stuffed vegetables, grilled peppers, pastas etc. etc. etc.--oh so good. Friends from Naples brought a mountain of bufala mozzarella balls. And then there were the desserts--of course, not a calorie in them.
Being Italy, there was a lot of wine but the day was so terribly HOT (+42ºC/+107ºF) that the beverages of choice were water and juice. The pool served as a welcome diversion for Casey and a few of the "bigger" people but since it was in total sun the rays beat down on the water and bounced right back up causing most of us to stay under the sheltering Italian style large umbrellas-- which, by the way, I would really like for our pool area at home. They would be quite nice with our Italian ceramic table being shipped to us sometime in August.
Casey showed a streak of entrepreneurship as he went around offering to fan people while holding out a hat for contributions--clearly he has seen too many street performers this year. Part of me was amused by his industriousness borne out of his desire to buy more Dragonball Z cards while the other part of me worried that he was being too pushy. When we returned to the hotel that night, I was nonplussed by the fact that he had €5.20 in his pocket. It seems a friend who lives here in Italy explained to him the concept of running a tab and so at the end of the night he went back and collected €3. To Valerie--I offer a public apology!
Grazie mille to Corinna and family for opening up your beautiful villa and providing a wonderful time with wonderful food. It was the kind of day and night which make memories. Thanks also to Janet who was staying at the villa and shared it with us and to Pauline, the brains behind Slow Travel and the person who makes all of this happen.
Because this was so close to Assisi, we went over a day early so Casey could visit the St. Francis Basilica with the Giotto and Cimabue frescos and to see the city where St. Francis was born. Casey has been fascinated by St Francis ever since we went to La Verna, the mountain top sanctuary that he loved. Casey's relating of that trip makes a pretty entertaining read-- My Time at Poppi. Among other things he explains why he does not want to become a monk.
His strange for a 9-year-old attachment to Giotto and Cimabue is a gift given to him by his friends at La Cantinetta di Rignana. At the basilica he particularly wanted to see Giotto's fresco of St. Francis "receiving the stigmata", a concept that has puzzled him since seeing another fresco at La Verna.
This was the final outing for our year in Italy and it was a good one--Casey visited a new place for his memory bank and we laughed, played and ate with friends--what a perfect ending!
My apologies to good friends whose pictures I did not get-particularly, dear Judith.
I have loved you but perhaps the time has come to move on. Piemonte, maybe I am yours!
We have just returned from three too short days in the hills and countryside of Piemonte--a land where snow covered Alps serve as backdrop to vibrant vineyards and rich green fields, where sun flowers nod and wave at the passerby. It is truly a land of unspoiled beauty--when away from Milano, Genova and the autostrada. We were awed by what we saw.
Unfortunately, my camera battery died dead, really dead--and so I have no pictures of the countryside. However, a quick web search brought up hundreds of beautiful shots--far better than my little camera could capture. Pictures of Piemonte. I want to go back for weeks.
We stayed at the Baur B&B (where I was able to get some photos before the dead camera) created by friends of ours--Diana and Mischa, who left high stakes international corporate existence to settle into the role of innkeepers. Together they have created a beautiful new life that tells of risk taking and following a dream.
The word created is perfect because that is what they have done--created a place of beauty, fantasy and serenity, encapsulating a sense of joy. Diana is a potter and an artist. She has used quietly vibrant colors to turn the walls, inside and out, into art. Splashes of flowers cover century old wooden barn doors. Breakfast (more accurately called a feast) is served on her own pottery designs.
Misha has learned how to use powerful equipment to do such things as cut down 300 trees to open a view that encompasses Liguria and far away mountains. All that happens there is a partnership.
And--there is a third member of the family--Max. Max is the dog you want to take home with you even though he is large. Like his owners, he adds ambience and affection.
One night, a couple from Norway who were also guests prepared a wonderful dinner for all of us. She is a chef and so the meal was quite special--much better than what I can do--trout baked in mountains of salt, roasted vegetables, pesce crudo. We sat outside on the mountain side, drinking in the view; enjoying wonderful food and stimulating conversation. A memorable evening.
Below are a few pictures of the B&B--taken before the dead battery.
Already we know that next summer, when we return for 6 weeks to allow Casey to use his italian, we will return to Piemonte and Diana, Mischa and Max. But, dear Toscana, we will save some time for you.
Today the usually sparkling Ionian sea hides under a blanket of shimmering, undulating heat. It is hot here on the east coast of mystical Sicily. Even dozing Mt.Etna is hard to see except for her smoking top. And—we sit in an oasis of beauty, with large shade trees cooling us after quick dips in the clear, cool pool. Surrounding us are petunias, bougainvilleas and myriad other flowers of all colors decorating walls and stairways. Birds fly from lemon tree to lemon tree and big fat lizards climb the walls looking for a cool corner.
We are at one of our favorite places—lovely Villa Praiola, perched between the Ionian Sea and Mt.Etna. When we were last here, we watched lava flow down the mountain, but this time we are not so lucky. The fire god is quiet for a while—but maybe domani? From the veranda we look over fields of trees—lemon and palms--all the way to the sea.
Today we went early to Taormina to again wander its charm and enjoy its beauty—with thoughts of buying another piece of unique pottery. I am glad we have been there before so that today we could pick and choose what we wanted to see rather than feeling the need to discover it all.
It was not long before we found an air conditioned trattoria before running back to the cool of the villa. I would have really liked to go on up to charming Castelmola but the pool and fans beckoned. I did find the ceramic piece but will give it a day’s thought before buying; it will need to be hand carried home and, after a year in bella Italia, there are already a few other things in that category—but, surprisingly little, actually.
Yesterday we did nothing—except for a short drive along the coast. When we were here before it was in October and the beach areas were shuttered ghost towns. The scene is quite different in June, particularly on a Sunday when people carrying umbrellas and multitudinous other necessities jaywalking streets to get to the beach side.
Plus we either have forgotten or habits have changed but by all appearances most drivers here have clearly not been to driving school—yesterday there were several hair raising near catastrophes —fortunately not involving us. I will say, today wasn’t bad at all-more like what we recall, a cross between San Francisco and, say, NYC.
Casey is now down at the pool with Lucio, the caretakers’ son—his friend from two years ago. The beauty of children is that friendships pick up where they leave off—particularly true of young boys who share the wonders of such things as Pokeman, Dragonball Z and transformers. I think for Lucio having another boy here for a week is a rare treat. And Casey loves being somewhere that offers a break from gramma and pappa.
Villa Praiola is a special place because of Vera and Francesco, its special owners, who take pride in offering strangers a beautiful place to live for a week—or more. It is decorated with marvelous taste but remains comfortable and enjoyable—totally relaxing.
It was a wonderful serendipity event which found us here in 2004 and now in 2007 the property has only grown better—a/c in all the rooms, an old building in the pool area has been transformed into an open air rec room with cooking facilities; the antique traditional winery below the villa has had lighting added which makes it much easier to absorb. Many such places have been long destroyed and so seeing this one, cobwebs and all, is like stepping into the past—huge, decaying wine vats, crushing screws, stone fermenting basins and more—everything but the contadino.
In 2004, when I was still keeping a travel website (which I may resurrect when this blog is finito), I wrote a lot about Villa Praiola and provided many pictures. If interested—check here. This is a 2007 photo update.
Now—I am off to join Casey and Lucio in a swim. And the sea is opening up—the blue shows and glistens like diamonds—the haze has lifted and I see a sailboat.Beautiful!
If you are interested in the villa, their renting agent is Ville in Italia. My experience with them is that they service clients well and are a business which values integrity.
Since I am writing this and whatever follows with no internet connection, it will be several days before entries are posted. So—travel back in time to catch up.
