Reflections in Pictures--Finale

Reminiscing--what a gift the digital camera has been to the bitter-sweet joy of looking backward! Childhood memories, which are so soon lost, burst alive again in vivid, full screen pictures. It is as if the camera has been set to time exposure as children grow before our eyes.

Casey doesn't remember Ecuador until I bring out the picture books and suddenly he recalls minute details. God, in his unfathomable creativity, has given our minds filing cabinets where all is catalogued and stored to be reclaimed at some point in life's journey. Thank you, God.

So... the last three short slideshows of summer 2011. These pictures are our memories thus a little short on famous places and "must sees". They are family landmarks, so to speak which, if the internet lasts, Casey can show his children (and grandchildren) someday.  (Previous Three)

 (Heads up: There is music so you may want to turn down sound.)

Greve-in-Chianti--Our Italian Home Town

Cortona--Love it Here



Assisi--Last Stop 2011

Our memories of 2011--of course, each slide, for us, triggers so much more. Hope you can feel them, too.

Link to:  Reflections--Part 1

Music from Romantic Moments by André Rieu

Reflections in Pictures

...sitting here thinking about Italy this summer and pondering how vacation times fade into forgotten memories so quickly as the "now" takes over. Thank goodness for the magic of photography which captures memories for times of reflection and appreciation of what was.

So, forthwith here are some of this year's memories:

(these have music attached so you may want to turn down sound.)

Montepulciano--Good Friends--Bellissimo

Verona--Not Casey's Favorite Experience

Venice--A Place of Fantasy and Intrigue

Next up: Cortona, Greve and Assisi.  Stay tuned..

Music from Romantic Moments by André Rieu

Someone said.....

..if life gives you lemons, make lemonade (or something like that.) Traveling offers many life experiences and this year Casey has learned to make lemonade. Hopefully it is a lesson which will hold him in good stead throughout life.

If you have followed us for a few years, you know of the extraordinary relationship Casey has had with Camilla beginning when we lived at her family's farmhouse in 2006-2007. These two children were soulmates who bonded in a deep and meaningful way. They said they were more than friends, more than brother and sister, not "girlfriend/boyfriend." If you have read Casey's or my blogs over the years, you know.






It was with trepidation and curiousity that we returned to Italy this year after a two year absence. Now that they were older, what would the relationship be? Casey had become a teen-ager; Camilla not there yet but almost. How would their friendship reform itself?

The first day, after an initial awkwardness, it seemed as if all was well and, as usual, they had picked up where they had left off. But..somehow, by the second day, things were not good. Camilla pulled away and, inexplicatedly, rejected any interaction with Casey. Our boy was totally confused, devastated and profoundly hurt. We, he and her parents have no understanding of why or what. It was bizarrely strange. For several days, Casey would wake up with his usual optimism believing that things would be different. But, as days progressed, even he recognized that was not to be.

So, time for lemonade making...time to refocus and find new pleasures which were readily available. He just had to look and move on.

At Viticcio where we lived and were staying there was a family from Belgium who had been there several times when we were there. They had two girls whom Casey had now known for 5 years. So, it was easy to have fun with them, swimming, walking into the village, playing games, etc. Ken and I were happy to hear Casey laughing and happy. He still would wonder what had happened with his old friend but he was able to move out of his initial despondency.

Then we went to Cortona where he had a wonderful time with Matteo, the son of a friend of mine in that lovely, haunting hill town. He wrote all about it on his blog.Matteo and Me. Ken and I were so pleased to see some of the hurt dissipate as he had such a fun time with Matteo and his friends. He had no time to spare for thoughts of a little girl several villages away.




When we returned to Viticcio, it was time to have the birthday party we had planned to have when his very good friend Tomasso came home from camp. So, with Tomasso and the friends from Belgium who were still there we had quite a celebration. The absence of Camilla, who was in Cannes at a ballet school, was hardly felt.



The rest of the week Tommy and Casey were together constantly--either Tommy was with us and staying the night or Casey was at Tommy's. They went to the late showing of the Harry Potter movie (in Italian, of course), wandered around Greve connecting with other friends, just did what boys do together. No girls necessary.

We ended up leaving Viticcio a week early as Tommy was leaving and so there wasn't much reason to hang around being sad. We had already arranged to go to friend Rebecca's agriturismo Brigolante outside of Assisi for three nights and then were fortunate enough to be able to extend that for a whole week. So we waved goodbye to our friends Alessandro and Nicoletta and moved on.

At Brigolante, Casey had fun again with Rebecca's boys who are quite a bit younger than Casey but boys seem to be able to adjust to age--that plus the little house in the woods, the ATV, the open hills and the farm were enough for Casey to love the week there. Casey and Brigolante.

So, although we had expected a twist to the story of Casey and Camilla this year, we could never have anticipated the curve it took. I don't know if time will reverse this year--if it was just a blip in this fairy tale story of young children. It is very mysterious and strange.

Casey feels a loss of some magnitude. He is puzzled. I encourage him to feel the loss so that he doesn't react by hardening against hurt. Since ways of response can be formed so early in life, children need guidance as to how to handle disappointments. I tell him to remember the years of fun the two of them had as they can't be taken away. And we all hope that next time we return, the unique and special friendship will reestablish.

And this year the lemonade turned out pretty sweet after all.



Tommy and Casey


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Cortona--Fun Times

When we were beginning the arduous planning for our year in Italy, Cortona was one of the places we considered. We had visited the town twice on previous trips and liked it; plus, I had a friend from SlowTravel who not only lived there but had a son Casey's age which was important to us. Ale, my friend, even scouted out a of couple apartments for us. But...we ended up in Greve instead.

Now, five years later, we finally got our boys together and within minutes of meeting a true friendship formed. Ale and I ended up saying "they're like the same person in two bodies" because their interests and likes seem/are so much alike. Matteo is older than Casey by just two weeks. What a friendship they would have had if we had lived there. Now Cortona will be a prescribed stop on future pilgrimages to Italy.

Matteo for Casey...


and Ale for me.


Alessandra (Ale) is a warm, fun, energetic, engaging woman. Also ...opinionated, out-spoken and multi-faceted. In other words, my kind of person. I would have thoroughly enjoyed her friendship if we had chosen Cortona as our home that year. Maybe we should think of doing an encore.

Ale has just been included in a list of the 100 best cooking schools in Italy --sorry, but I forget which magazine. Considering that there are hundreds of cooking schools in Italy, this is quite an honor. She is good. I spoke with a couple who had taken one of her lessons and they totally raved about her. In their journal they have included The section "things we have learned from Alessandra." I suggested they start a blog and list these so others could benefit.

Alessandra also has a shop in Cortona, Girasole which features jewelry and artifacts fashioned after that in the Etruscan Museum in the palazzo across the street from her shop. Her jewelry is featured in the National Geographic catalogue--pretty impressive.

Her shop also has beautiful linens which are reproductions of that of the renaissance, terracotta articles and items reflective of Tuscsany. It's difficult to peruse her shop and leave empty handed--I can't. Several years ago I bought Etruscan jewelry. This time it was unique Tuscan motif jewelry..and, sale and pepe grinders with bronze tops which will make great conversation pieces at dinner and good menories for us.



All of Alessandra's wares are made in Italy and come from within 200 kms of Cortona. She personally knows and has selected each artisan and manufacturer featured in Girasole. Quality is the trademark.

We had two fun filled dinners and evenings with Ale, Marino and the kids, Matteo and Francesca, who is 9 and, I believe, developed a crush on teenager Casey.


The first night, after dinner, we joined the music and dancing in the piazza. Well, we just listened and watched as mostly college age kids did the dancing part. We were content with our gelato and friends.

The next night we had a truly one-of-kind unique Tuscan/Italian experience--the American Saloon with an authentic western decor and an equally authentic, traditional Tuscan menu.







Franco, the owner, is enamored of all things cowboy and must surely have been one in a previous life. He also raises owls. Quite a character.


Dinner was fun with a mixture of English and Italian--well, mostly Italian. We were joined by Donatella and Roberto, friends of Ale and Marino.


A fun night.

One more thing to mention. The lovely B&B where we stayed..wonderfully situated on the main street in Cortona Casa Chilenne. Breakfast includes home made pastries, eggs as you like, waffles, meats...just about anything you would want Everything about the place is top quality from fluffy towels to decor to beds to all. It even has chair lifts to all 4 floors for people who would need that service. Amazing place and delightful owners. We will return next time unless we get an apartment for a week or so.

So, you have the highlights of our time in Cortona. There was more but this is long enough. Thank you Ale, friend, for having so much time for us. a presto!

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Venice--Not a One Night Stand

I love Venice--have since our first time there, which I think was 1999--or perhaps--a past life. So, it is hard when I hear people maligning it; they have missed the magic--the voices of whispered intrigue, the private but not-so-secret liasons of romance, the captains of sea trade and war, quiet whishes of gondola oars-on the way to an extravagant ball, the majesty and unfathomableness of a small republic built on wood pilings who for a while dominated Europe. What an amazing story this lady has to tell.

So, Venice can not be a day-trip or a one night stand. A traveler needs quiet times in La Serenissima. Minutes/hours spent in small campos and calles. It is the land of Vivaldi--music must be heard in the heart if not at the opera house. Time should be spent studying the magificent Tintorettos in the Scuola di San Rocco.








Visiting Venice is more completely a visit to eras and centuries gone by than any other place I know--unless visiting the dead places where life long ago abandoned them.

This time we were there with Casey, going on 13.








Last time we were there with Casey, going on 6.








We had a good time both times. I did miss the wide eyes and wonder of the little boy whose eyes were so fresh and to whom the world was so new, but, walking with a son who is taller than I and who puts an arm around my shoulder, telling me he loves me is a magic of its own.

This time we rented a very lovely apartment Ca Leonessa on a small side canal. The building was old but the apartment was 21st century--with Wii for Casey and wifi for me. Everything about it was top quality from the Le Creuset Cookware to wonderful beds--and, it was quiet at night. Out our window was the famous vegetable boat of Venice which probably has been photographed as many times as San Marco.

We were perfectly situated for getting almost every where.








We ate well, of course. The food of Venice is outstanding; although it is best to avoid the tourist hotspots or the places with pictures of food displayed on the walkway--usually a pretty reliable sign to move on. I was chagrined to overhear a woman on the train from Verona to Venice authoritatively telling a day-tripping family--"a word of warning, Venice is not known for its food." How I wanted to turn around and contradict.

For those foodies reading this, our very best meal and it was outstanding was at
Antiche Carampane. I had the little soft-shelled fried crabs which are a delicacy of Venice. Worth going there just for that meal.

There is much more to write about and maybe I'll do so domani or..maybe not. It may be that lazing at the pool, or driving to Panzano, or..or..or appeals more.

For the time being here are some pictures. These are for the most part random and quite incomplete. Loading from the iPad to flickr tonight was incredibly, super, aggrevatingly frustrating... this is the result.

Some, not many Venice pictures.

Ciao for now.

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Verona and the Opera

Well, if you are on Facebook, you know now that Verona was a bust. Romeo and Juliet is a Shakesperean fantasy and Casey hated the opera! Why else go to Verona? Well, there was good food and Piazza Bra fascinated the twelve year old. Why would you name a piazza after women's underwear?


In a delusional state, I had thought that Aida, performed in the ancient Roman amphitheater, with all of its spectacular aspects--live animals, tomb deaths, armies, dancing, sphinx and other accouterments of Egypt (where we will be in December) would be enough to offset the arias but, it just didn't work out that way. Now I wonder why I thought it would.


To begin with, the opera did not begin until 9:15 when Casey was already ready for pillow time. Then, with intermissions, it was not to be over until 1:00 am.

Some time during Act 3, Casey informed me that "this is the most boring thing I have ever done." So, hearing the plantiff notes in his voice, when the lights next went up, Ken took Casey back to the hotel and I stayed on. So much for that cultural experience. Suggestions on what to try next?

R and J is a full-time business in Verona, though. Everyone crowds into the little viale where Juliet's "Romeo, Romeo...." balcony projects. For some reason beyond my understanding, people jostle their way forward to get a picture cupping a hand on the breast of Juliet's statue.






And....right there is the Romeo and Juliet shop where you can get red or white or pink or any combination thereof Juliet and Romeo embroidered pillows, towels, etc. with which to decorate your home, back home. (We bought several in contrasting color motifs.)

There was one momentous event to be shared about Verona...Casey finally became a true Italian male. Can you see in this picture why this is


We did enjoy wandering the streets and the fortress and had two very good meals there--at Osteria da Ugo and at Risotanti Greppia.







Coming up....Mystical, magical Venice

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A Drive--A Lunch--A Garden--A Dinner

Well, the title pretty much sums up our day--lazy, lovely, delightful.

We have never driven over to Abbadia San Salvatore or the base of Mount Amiata--even though this is the first year of the second decade of our coming here to Sant'Antonio. So today seemed like a nice day to do just that--

It is an easy drive and the road up Mount Amiata is beautifully serene with tall trees and shrines hidden away in the shadows. There was a particularly lovely one I wish I had captured so I could share it here. But wishes don't bring much.

In A Culinary Traveller in Tuscany we had read of a promising restaurant, Ristoranti Anna, down the road from Abbadia San Salvatore in Piancastagnaio .. so we went in search of it. We did find it and were rewarded with an excellent lunch after working our way through the spoken menu. I had wonderful spinach/ricotta ravioli smoothered in arugala, little tomatoes and shaved cheese--yum!


On our way back, we went on Casey's favorite field trip--the gardens of La Foce. Most people who come here make this a must see on their first visit but it has taken us 11 years. We had been to La Foce but not the gardens which are only open on Wednesday afternoons. The history of this villa and its gardens goes back centuries but the most fascinating for us is the war years. In spite of what I said, this was not a favorite Casey experience. but, he did handle it with grace.







The day ended with the Sant' Antonio Wednesday night dinner which is a very fun evening. The food is good and it is a chance to spend time with the other guests from around the world. Tonight it was British Columbia, China, England, Australia and the United States.


While the big people drink wine and converse, the kids play outside on the grass. it's a good time for all.






Now it is bedtime. Buona notte!

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Sunday--June 19, 2011--Sant'Antonio

On the way to dinner...






Nico, Filippo, Sofia and Casey.
Casey and the children have known each other since he first came here in 2003.

Last night was a fun, fun evening. Nico and his children, lovely Sofia and adorable Filippo, joined us for dinner at A Gambe di Gatto on the Corso. Elena, our friend--Nico's wife--the childrens' mama--is ill and so wasn't able to come. We missed her a lot.






I can say this is our new favorite restaurant in Montepulciano. It is small with only 7 tables. Manuale started us with tasting 10 different wines after which we selected the wine we wanted with dinner. Later he brought 7 oils to the table for us to choose one for our salad. At the end of the night, he presented the children with bags of gourmet cookies.








Filippo, Sofia, twin cousins from Rome, and Casey. It is such fun to watch Casey morph into an "Italian ragazzo." No one watching or listening would think that he is an American boy.

More Sant'Antonio...
























The horse stable in days of yore...now the venue for famous Wednesday night banquets.


















Sant'Antonio is magical...just ask anyone who has been here.

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Close to Heaven

It seems that is where we are now--in the welcoming embrace of Sant' Antonio with its stones that once echoed the chants of monks in a 13th century monastary, olive trees with glistening, shimmering leaves moving in the breeze of the hilltop, laughter seeping from below as people discard cares left behind, blue, blue skies meeting the green gold fields. Yes, this has been the treasured escape of ours for many years. Last year we traded it for the expanses of the Mara and plaines of Kenya. And so it is good now to be back.









We have been here just four hours but have truly never left--it seems. Our friend Nico's smile is as wide and welcoming as always--his hugs true.

Casey has looked forward to seeing Sofia and Filippo but they are not here yet. They're in town with Aunt Paola and until all the guests have checked in, Nico can't go get them. So, Casey has found the next best thing....dogs. He loves dogs---well, animals of all kinds, actually. Caio, the dog of Sant Antonio is an old friend. Ula, is the huge, loveable, beautiful family member of a German couple in the apartment below ours. To Casey, they are his brothers.







So, we are here, the long road to travel is always worth what it takes. Sant' Antonio, Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italia....Home




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Italy on the Horizon-Yeah!

Two years? Not possible! My mind, in vivid colors, conjures up familiar places, friends' faces, favorite tables at favorite trattorias, slopes of green vines, piazzas, art extraordinaire, lagoons, Giotto--so many imprints from so many visits, so much nostalgia for our Tuscan year. And now we are returning after a year's hiatus--how could we have stayed away so long? Ah, I remember, Kenya called and so lions and giraffes replaced David and Leonardo for 2010. And.....I don't regret that excursion at all--it was totally, monumentally spectacular.

But now we go home in 27 days--whose counting, anyway? Casey and I leave on June 15 via United and Lufthansa--San Diego, Chicago, Frankfurt-Rome; Ken follows the next day via United with a by far better routing--San Diego-D.C.-Rome. Why? Because Casey and I used miles for business while Ken has a revenue fare with a business upgrade. He needed the last few ff miles to reach the heady 1,000,000 mile with nice life-time perks. It would have been good to get our free tickets to match his itinerary but no such luck and since free is free we took what we could get.

Casey and I will stay at the Luana B&B near the Rome Airport waiting Ken's arrival the next day and then head on to our most favorite of all places, beautiful and serene Sant' Antonio outside of Montepulciano. This year will mark 10 years since we first arrived at Sant' Antonio and began our friendship with the owners Nico and Elena. Casey and their children have grown up together. We came there days after 9/11/2001 when the world was in mourning with the US. It was a somber time which forged lasting friendships wherever you were.

We love southern Tuscany and have explored it well over the years but..there are always places missed and those to revisit. We will do both during our week there.

Casey, Sofia and Filippo will again renew their friendship as children do while Ken and I will enjoy time with Nico and Elena. As I write, I long to be there.

From Sant' Antonio we go to Verona for just two nights. We want Casey to see the opera Aida in the Roman Arena there--well, we want to see it, too, actually. The opera season there is world famous and a truly special operatic event. We bought our tickets a long time ago. I understand that the spectacle includes elephants entering down the aisles which will surely captivate Casey if the arias don't. Aida Pictures from the 2009 Season

From Verona, train to Venice-- La Serenissima (the most serene.) We have an apartment there for 6 nights--not long enough but better than our original 3 nights. We've been there before--once just Ken and I in 1999 and then in 2003 with Casey. His memories consist of the pigeons in Piazza San Marco and the gondola ride when he oh so politely told the gondolier "these boats are called canoes in San Diego."

I am totally looking forward to these days in Venice. It is magical there--even with the early summer crowds. I love wandering lost among the calles and canals, admiring the creative vision and genius of building such magnificent structures on water, the food, the Tintoretto and Titian masterpieces, the riding the vaporetto, visiting the islands and the food, again. There is so much we have not seen there that our days will be full.

We pick up our car on leaving Venice, drive to Padua to view the exquisite Giotto frescoes in the Cappella degli Scrovegni. The next morning we will head on to our "home" in Greve-in-Chianti where we will nest for 4 weeks. We already know the first or maybe the second night will find us at Il Portico with Marcella.

Once again Casey will have his birthday there--the 4th time. He will officially  become a teenager then--13! Very hard to believe that the little boy who went to 3rd grade there is now almost a grown-up. His teachers and karate instructors will be very surprised by how big he is and by the excellence of his Italian. His tutors here have done a good job with him.

I will take a 3 day vacation-in-a-vacation to Dublin with my friend Rita. Having never been to Ireland, I look forward to this brief, small sampling. Rita has been there so she will be my guru--nice.

While in Greve, the three of us will head to Umbria for 3 nights and take a cooking class from a friend of mine. I will be sure to blog about Rebecca's place where we will stay and Letizia's cooking class. I think this is going to be a blast.

So that is the outline of our plans. The details will be filled in once we arrive and I begin blogging again on a fairly regular basis. It is so much easier when doing something new and different--not like boring at home stuff.

A Presto