Beer Cupcakes?

In Italy we have a favorite small local enoteca, Enoteca Fuoripiazza, where we go when at the last minute I decide that cooking just isn't in the cards that night. The food is simple but always fresh. Luca and his crew take good care of us. It is low key, relaxing and comfortable. Oops, almost forgot to mention that their  wine selection is totally outstanding. We love it there; in fact, can't wait to pop in and see the smiles next summer--and hugs.

So it was a real sense of homecoming when we discovered our own little enoteca not far from us here in San Diego. It's in a very small, neighborhood shopping center--well, center is sort of an overstatement as there is just a specialty grocery store and a handful of other small shops--beauty parlor, cleaners, etc. For years there was a wine shop with a deli counter which we infrequently entered.

Now they have transformed into a great little bistro/enoteca with both inside and patio dining areas. The menu is simple but good, the staff fun and the atmosphere lively. This is combined with their shop which has an incredibly  fantastic wine selection--including several of the wines from the vineyard where we lived in Italy. They have also expanded to offer great craft beers from local breweries.

The name of this place is--drumroll-- KNB Wine Cellars--Grapes, Hops, Fine Food

 So this is now our go-to-place when we don't want fancy, but do want good food and a pleasant, kick back time--when I don't want to cook. Well...if we did this every time I didn't want to cook, we would be there much more often.

Last night we were there and had a chance to talk with Kat, the wine buyer. We mentioned the Viticcio Chianti Classico Riserva which she doesn't stock--but now will. This will make a pretty complete selection of wines from our Italian home which makes us very happy.

Anyway, back to the title of this entry--beer cupcakes. We've eaten here several times now but have always passed on the cupcakes as beer is not my thing and it just didn't sound appealing. Last night, though, we were talked into trying them for dessert with the promise they didn't taste like beer. And, guess what--they are deliciously good and tasty-not at all beery.

 

I really liked the Stoned Portzilla!! Yummy good. As usual, I forgot to take a picture of these--even though my camera was on the table. Next time!

So, when you come to visit--we'll take you to our new favorite in the hood.

Flying On A Jet Plane

This is what I am doing right now.....sitting in comfort--well, sort of--in first class from LaGuardia to Lindberg (that's NYC to SD.) This is called a "through" flight which means little since we change plans in Chicago and have a two hour layover....but...the flight number stays the same. There is so much that I just don't understand about airline mentality.

Anyway, this gives me time to write a blog entry so that it won't be hanging over my head when I get home to Casey and Ken. So much, I am sure, to catch up on there. Did they get the halloween costume? Homework finished? Book read? Was everything peaceful and serene? I'll be happy if all is well and I don't need to "fix it." We shall see.

NYC was fun...a lot. All the meeting-ups happened with perfection. The hotel in some mysterious, psychic fashion knew we all belonged with one another and had our rooms together in a cute, separate, hidden wing of the hotel. As they had no clue about our connection, the serendipity of this is intriguing.

We all were very pleased with the charmingly named The Hotel @ Times Square, recommended to us by our friend Kathy Woods, who worried that we would not like it. So...Kaydee, you are in the clear.

Actually, the hotel is not on Times Square but a few easy blocks away which is good, for who would want to really be staying where half the world's humanity roams day and night? We did form one with the masses a few times when we walked through on the way to elsewhere. I haven't been there for years but can't say that it was any new or different from years past.

Friday lunch friend Leslie, from Georgia, and I "dined" at Batali's pesce (fish) restaurant Esca which was excellent!! With a bottle of excellent white wine from Le Marche, selected for us by the wine guy, accompanying my so good grilled bluefish with little dried tomato garnishes, I was happy. Oh, I did start with soft, creamy, fresh, flown in yesterday from Southerrn Italy, bufala mozzarella garnished with tiny leaves of argula. I wonder if Batali will migrate to San Diego?

By the time we meandered our way back to The Hotel @Times Square, Sheri and Carol were there so I traded Leslie in for them and we explored our way to Rockefeller Center and environs. Thought I would buy a cute little halloween candy at the Chocolatier for Casey but at $20 a lollipop, he is being deprived.

New Friend Carol, Sheri and Leslie

Sheri and Me

Dinner Friday was at the Spice Market which was good but not as spectacular as I had anticipated. On the way there, Carol, Sheri and I had a hard time flagging a taxi. One finally stopped and said he was off duty but would kindly take us there for $30; we said no. But, we were tired of hustling a ride and the time of our reservation was approaching, so we settled on $25 which would include a tip. The taxi back was $8.10

After dinner Sheryl from NYC took us on a stroll along the new New York park The Highline which runs above the street along tracks that used to run between factories. We had a good time with Sheryl who gave us many good insider tips

This is one of the five courses at the Greek Market. Very tasty!

Almost time for my next flight..I'm in Chicago. This is a good stopping point as it is the end of day one

I can upload here so will do installment two once home.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Greve's Piazza Matteotti

Everyone here is up in arms over the desecration of “our” piazza—the center piece of Greve for residents and tourists alike. If you have been here, you picture the unusual shape of the piazza with Chiesa Santa Croce anchoring the narrow end and arcades filled with shops lining both sides as it spreads out to the gastronomia, forno, café, bank and other shops at the base of the triangle.

It is, or one should say has been, a piazza where people stroll, cross easily from side to side and admire the view of the church while sitting with an espresso at the café. The piazza fostered friendliness, camaraderie and a sense of time moving slowly. It has been a mecca for Casey who loved to wander, see friends and sense a space that was “his.” We loved having dinner at Il Portico and watching the activities passing by. Casey treasured the freedom of getting up from the table and roaming for some of his buddies as we adults sat and savored the night.

Monday Greve woke to a travesty that has shopkeepers, residents and people such as we who love this town expressing anger and dismay as only Italians can—well, we primarily commiserate and moan with them, equally astounded.

The Comune has made a parcheggio (parking lot) out of the piazza. The entire center of the piazza has been painted with white parking spaces. The beauty of Greve and what charms people, the visual people take home with them—the centerpiece of this medieval town—is now, to quote our friend Bruno, “molto brutto”-very ugly. This is the phrase on everyone’s lips.

There is a reason for this disaster but that doesn’t pacify anyone. If you have been here, you know that Greve has a parking problem. There has been limited pay parking along the perimeter of Piazza Matteotti. There is a free lot behind the COOP and a small pay underground garage. Across the Greve River in front of Piazza del Popolo, across from the cinema there is a free parking lot. Then there are a few other places that people who live here know about but tourists usually don’t find. During the months of May through October, it can be a challenge to find a place to park—which, of course, is very frustrating for residents who need to go about their business.

In response to this need, the Comune (sort of like a county) has planned a large, multi level underground parking structure. This will be where the current parking lot is in front of Piazza del Popolo; thus that lot will be closed as of July 7—or so that is what is rumored. Therefore, new parking options needed to be found, ergo the disaster in the Piazza, which, by the way, doesn’t provide anywhere near the number of spots now lost.

Of course, the Piazza is where Saturday Market is so we are all waiting to see what happens come Saturday. It will be very interesting. The piazza is home to lovely flower markets as well as antique fairs, wine festivals, and a myriad of other activities that are at the heart of Greve and its traditions. What will happen to these events?

One might ask—and people are—why now in the middle of the tourist season? Does this seem odd? Well-yes! I have heard it was supposed to have been started in March but the torrential rains this spring and early summer, interfered with that plan. This does make sense. But, then, people ask—why not wait until October? So far, there has not been a good answer to that.

The biggest question is: “How long will the Piazza be so disfigured?” Well, things frequently do not move quickly here in bella Italia—often part of its charm to those of us from A type countries. An apartment/shop complex that was begun when we were here in March of 2006 is still not complete. This does not bode well.

So, know that when you come to this village we like to call home-Greve in Chianti, you won’t see it as it is supposed to be. And those who have been here, be saddened that what you see in your mind’s eye, is not what is any longer—for a while. We are sad, too.

White Roads of Chianti

Often I speak of pleasures in traveling white roads and then someone will ask “what is a white road?” I forget that for me the concept was unknown until spending time here a few years back. Since then, my life and love for Tuscany and Umbria have been enriched by following them.

Look at your map. You see highways, autostradas, roads, smaller roads, very skinny roads and then, focusing harder, you will find white lines. These lines seem to meander, flowing between places like river bottoms. Usually you do not see destinations marked along their ways.

Travelers often ignore these lines and that is their mistake; for, it is as you bump and turn along these dirt, gravel, ravined rutted roads that discoveries are made. It is in these explorations that you will find future memories more evocative than the storied places you have been to—the “must sees,” as they are called.

A mystery of these roads and something to keep in your mind as you decide to take the step and follow one is that they always lead some place—well, almost always anyway. Eventually you will bump your way back onto a paved road with directional signs to somewhere.

Along the way you will find even smaller paths to turn into where at the end will be an ancient farmhouse now restored, lived in and with a sign for olive oil and wine. You wonder what happens to these people in winter; surely cars can’t make it “there and back” in snow and rain. And then the bigger question: Who finds this place to taste and buy the oils and wines?...People who follow white lines, of course.

We spent a year exploring these roads that beckon and yet there must be hundreds more to find. Today was a new one with a delightful reward along the way. After passing by a lovely but mournful wooden cross bedecked with flowers, held up by rough stones at the base—a memorial to some tragic accident, peering into woods where the wild boar roams, hearing the strange calls of unknown birds somewhere in the tree tops and glimpsing small hilltop villages in the distance,

we eventually found ourselves in San Giusto in Salcio--a very small old grouping of stone houses, a church and a towering tower with bells announcing the hour--a borgo of the past but lived in again now.

The parish church was built in the 1200's, restored over the years, fell into disrepair and last renovated in 1926. It is small but clearly in use--not decommissioned as so many of the old chapels here have been. And, in it was this quite lovely treasure that gleamed within the rough hewn walls and scarred pews of the building--a not unusual find when traveling white roads.

Wending along further was one of those even smaller "roadpaths" with a sign indicating a reward of a winery if we followed it. So, we did and stumbled upon another special place---Poggio Antinora. Here one can sample their wines but even better is the exhibition of wonderful fotographia from the early 1900's. Taken with an old box camera by the parish priest are the faces of rich and poor, vineyard workers and children. It is a rich and provocative glimpse into the history of yesteryear.

Alongside these rooms is a small museum of vineyard/winery implements and equipment from days long past.

A Look At Poggio Antinora

Retreating back along the rocky roads, we eventually found our way to the paved 214A which led us back through Radda and to Lucrelli and the Osteria di Panzanella--our lunch destination.

A Delicious Goat Cheese Salad with Lots of Other Good Stuff

Our day ended by traveling our most favorite white road of them all--one that we return to again and again because of the treasure found at its end--La Cantinetta di Rignana. To find out more about Casey's most favorite restaurant in all the world, just do a search on this blog or on KZ in Toscana.

In this picture, they are holding the San Diego Pot Holders he brought them per la cucina.

Tomorrow we go to Castello Meleto where there will be a medieval festival. Each day offers its own pleasures to enjoy and the treasure hunt is fun!

Restaurants In and Around Greve-in-Chianti

I must say and admit--this does not truly qualify as a blog entry--at least not of the kind I usually write, but..........maybe it will be useful to those of you who will be traveling in the area we called home for a wonderful year.

We ate out a lot! Often it was for lunch when Ken and I explored the countryside while Casey was in school. I can not tell you how relaxing and freeing it is to just drive white roads and lanes and then find some place to stop for a good pasta and glass of vino. No worries in the world follow you on such ventures. What a year it was!

As a result, I have compiled a list of restaurants in the greater Greve area. Hopefully this information is for you--because that means you will be there.

I put this together for the Slow Travel website which focuses on a type of travel which allows for greater immersion and understanding of cultures and lifestyles. If you are not aware of this site, you may want to check it out.

So, now, travel to Restaurants in Chianti. The truth is that this is not a complete list of our culinary year--as time permits, it will expand to both more restaurants in the Chianti area and then to other areas within Tuscany and Italy. As I said--we ate out a lot! Enjoy.

Restaurants to Share

I don't know--Italy or Other Good Stuff--guess it's both.

We have indulged ourselves at way, way too many restaurants during our year here with most ranging somewhere between good and memorable. These four are the latest on our "go back to" list and so I thought I would share them with anyone who might be coming this way soon.

Antica Borgo: You probably won't stumble upon this restaurant unless you are like us, having the time and inclination to explore off the beaten track or someone has recommended it to you. It is located in an old, traditional small farm borgo with buildings that have been used for centuries. Today the old buildings hide apartments, a locanda and a great traditional Tuscan restaurant serving food with a flair. The hosts are congenial; the wine list impressive; the food delicious and the setting quite lovely. For nice weather dining there is veranda seating but choosing between inside and outside can be difficult as there is much charm inside.

The restaurant is located just beyond Lucolena, a small village off the road leading between Figline Valdarno and Greve in Chianti. Their website gives clear directions.

Dulcisinfundo: (no website, yet.) 21, Vicolo Deglis Innocenti San Gimignano 0039 0577 941919
We thoroughly enjoyed this restaurant. The owner Roberto del Zoppo, from Milano, is delightful, proud of his establishment and offers deliciously good food. It is located to the right along the wall as you head into the center of the village, allowing it to offer a beautiful view of the countryside beyond. However, we chose to eat in the nicely decorated, inviting inside. There is an attractive enoteca downstairs, below street level.

Osteria del Castello: (no website yet) Located at the entrance to Castello di Brolio; Loc. Madonna A Brolio; osteria@ricasoli.it;
GPS Coordinates Lat 43°24'55"N Long 11° 27'33" E:
39-0577 747277
We ate here several years ago and enjoyed it immensely; however, the previous owner has left and the osteria is now owned by the Brolio Winery. It is in the process of reestablishing itself and promises to be as good as it was in the past under the Irish chef Seamus. The menu is creative with many preparations that differ from typical Tuscan foods. There is a good wine list. The osteria is located in the midst of a calm and serene forest, providing a pleasant respite from a day of exploration and discovery. It is a time to relax and savor the day's activites.

Ristorante Il Vescovino: (no website) Via Ciampolo da Panzano, 9; 055 8560152; ilvescovino@mail.com. Signs to the restaurant are easy to follow. This is another restaurant that has existed for many years: however, a couple of years ago it was sold and the new owners are providing some creative cuisine along with traditional dishes--all utilizing typical Tuscan ingredients. I recently had a light lasagna with a duck ragu sauce which was outstanding. The owners are a young Italian (husband) Scottish (wife) couple. The ristorante has a wide veranda with incredible views over the countryside--beautiful on warm weather days. The inside rooms and tables are classy.

From time to time, I'll offer more dining tips based upon our year here. Always they will be places we feel are worth return trips because they provide something beyond the ordinarily good food to be found in most restaurants here in Tuscany.

Update:
Since posting this entry I have added a page to my website with information about many restaurants around Greve--some of the ones we sampled during our year. Restaurants Enjoy!

Perfect Parma

We have fallen in love with Parma--for a few days anyway. What a delightful town to visit and explore--not too big, not too small, quiet, no motorcycles, sophisticated, confident--not to mention phenomenal food, the best gelato ever and a wonderful masseuse.

We were there last week for too brief of time and so have every intention of returning. Why?

Palazzo della Rosa Prati: Thanks to a friend on Slow Travel, we stayed at this perfect place in its perfect location. The palazzo
is situated on the Piazza Duomo with wonderful views of the Duomo and Baptistry; it has been the Rosa Prati's family home since the 15th century. Vittorio Rosa Prati, who fortunately is quite bilingual for those of us who are linguistically impaired, provides gracious and warm assistance beginning with the first e-mail.

The room we were in was Ortensia which is beautiful with a wonderful view of the piazza . The other rooms I saw were quite nice, but Ortensia is the prize--if you can get it. The Palazzo does not serve breakfast but there is a bar two doors down.


The Baptistery, which is said to be "the most important and advanced monument of the middle ages in Italy," sits right next to Palazzo Rosa Prati. It is breathtaking to see this space as you step through the door. Incredibly well-preserved, beautiful tempera paintings from the 13th century seem to cover every inch of its walls and vault.


Adjacent to the Baptistery is the cathedral which we entered when there were only 15 minutes until lunch closure. One look and we knew that it would take much longer than a quarter hour to try to appreciate the richness of the art and architecture. So--off we went to our first meal in Parma at Osteria della Zingaro across from San Giovanni Evangelista. As in all good places, it was fortunate that we arrived early because 10 minutes later, there were no empty tables--filled by locals, not tourists

Having been told by Vittorio that horse meat is a common and appreciated food in Parma, I decided to have--carpaccio of cavallo. It was sweet, good and I would not have guessed what it was had I not known. After lunch we returned to the cathedral. And--we had been right; it took focused, concentrated time to be amazed by all that is there including a cupola frescoed by Correggio.

In back of the cathedral's apse is the Church and Monastery of San Giovanni Evangelista--another place with frescoes and art which you will not want to miss. And--across from the church is K2 gelateria--arguably the best gelato I've had (in close competition with Gianni's in Bologna.) Truth be told, gelato in Parma is good--we tried 3 places but K2 wins hands down. If you like gelato, be sure to find this place.

Vittorio arranged a visit for us to a Parmigiano Reggiano producer which is an excursion I highly recommend. Although it may not sound like something particularly special, it actually is. Did you know that the master cheese maker works 7 days a week, 365 days a year, year after year after year--on his wedding day, Christmas, the days his children are born--always. Why? Take the tour and you'll know this and other fascinating tidbits. Learn about one of Parma's culinary contributions to the world!

The Farnese Theater provides a fascinating architectural glimpse into theater construction in the 15th century. It was built in short order for a visit to Parma by Cosimo d'Medici--who never showed up. In WWII it was destroyed by Allied bombs but has since been restored according to original plans and photographs. It is inside the Palace of the Pilotta along with the Archeological Museum, National Gallery and Palatina Library.


Of course, there is much more in Parma--some of which we did see and some that we will see--next time. Parma is a walking place--window shopping is delightful and beckons one through the doors. I could shop here very easily--much more so than in Firenze which I find confusing and overwhelming.

Oh--Margherita, the incredibly good masseuse! The New Beauty Center Due is located in the Rosa Prati courtyard --0521-23-46-28. And--if you are staying at the Palazzo there is a 20% discount. Having had massages many places, many times, I can say this was just about the best ever.

Two other places we ate and can recommend are:
Trattoria del Tribunale and Trattoria Correieri

I look forward to all that is left to see and do in Parma. It enchants me.

A Day to Wander

This morning Ken said "What should we do today?" It didn't take long--one look out the window--to know that this was a day meant to spend exploring. With a quick look at the map, Ken found a back route from here to Radda in Chianti that had mysteries yet to be discovered. So, grabbing the camera and simple light weight vests, off we went.

We took the mountain road leading to Figline, but, once through the roadside hamlet of Dudda, we took the almost dirt road turn off to Lucalena, which we found to be a small village with one little, little store and a scattering of homes. I was puzzled because I knew there was a highly regarded restaurant in Lucalena but it clearly was not in the village. A little further along the road, we found it in a typical, intriguing borgo with crumbling old stone farm structures -- Locanda Antica Borgo. But, it is closed right now except for weekends. I suspect that sometime after Easter it will come alive again as tourists return and the "season" begins and we no longer wander alone. The crowds we are beginning to see in Firenze have not yet reached the countryside.

After looking in the windows of the Locanda and walking around the borgo, we hopped back in the car and continued down the road. Before long we saw a little turn off to a place called Badia A Montemuro--surely worth a look as Badia means Abbey which usually translates into interesting.



Badia A Montemuro is quaint and intriguing with lovely views, trees with beautiful pink blossoms and picturesque corners and turns but with few vestiges left of an abbey or monastery. There was one small church with a stark but haunting crucifix on the stone wall by the closed door and then there are what perhaps are remains of another structure and some grass covered foundations. Obviously, whatever it was in time past has been decimated at some point in history--bombing, morter shells in WWII? battles between Siena and Firenze? Guelphs and Ghibbelines? Or maybe just too many churches and abbeys in too many small villages. If I could read Italian, I would spend time researching this little out of the way place.

After Badia, on the road to Radda, we saw a sign to a Parco Naturale--so, off we went to explore it and what a find it was.



It is a wonderful place for families and organizations to spend a special day in the summer--which I guess is the only time it is really open as the sign seemed to say July-August, but, maybe I missed something in the translation--quite possible. There is a lake with ducks and geese (?), animals of several ilk, a rifugio, albergo, restaurant, barbecues, swings, and more. It is very large and perfect for a hot day. We will bring Casey and maybe his friend Tommy here someday.


When we entered the parco, we had noticed a very rough memorial which simply in its appearance was moving. On the way out, we stopped to read it and found that it is a memorial to partisans who were martyred as they fought the Germans in WWII.


From here we enjoyed twisty, turning roads through forests not yet green with new leaves. It is amazing the things we see now which will be so well hidden once foliage returns.

In a few weeks, this empty, desirable stone house will hide behind the trees. I remember last December when suddenly we became aware of many things that had eluded us for months.

Eventually, we saw a sign to a restaurant that's been on our "must go to" list for months. So off we headed for Ristorante Badia a Coltibuono (Badia of the Good Harvest.)

This is a very well-known culinary destination which includes a prestigious cooking school. Having now eaten there, I know why. Pranzo (lunch) was outstanding. I had a simply prepared sea bass on a bed of spinach--outstanding and worth a trip back. Ken had cinghiale (boar) in a sweet and sour chocolate sauce which was excellent, regardless of what it sounds like. Service was excellent and the view spectacular. It was a wonderful way to top off our day of exploration.

We headed on back to Greve, arriving in time to pick up an 8 year old, having enjoyed our day of being nothing more than retired folk on excursion.

Good Friends, Good Food, Good Talk

San Diego seems far away and out of sight—homesickness has not been a big problem for me--so it is with a feeling of apprehension that I think of returning to the “fast life” of California. We have slowed down here in Greve in Chianti. We have lost that sense of urgency that seems to pervade daily life in the fast lane of rushing from here to there and back again. The pace here is slow and soul settling.

But we do miss our friends and that sense of belonging to a group larger than the three of us. We, of course, have friends here whom we truly enjoy and spending time together is fun. But, this is different than the comfort that takes time to develop and become real which exists with people you have grown to know over years of sharing lives. So, it was with great joy that we had dear friends from San Diego spend last week with us.

And--these friends didn't wait for the glorious time of spring to come to the Chianti--they braved coming in winter--a time when so few people travel that many restaurants and stores close for holiday. A time when it is cold (but not so much this year which is the warmest in 260 years), when the leaves and color are gone, when even market stalls close.

They actually came to see us--not Tuscany--what a friendship that is--one to treasure and we do.

Jan and Keith have been to Italy several times but in the manner that all of us do when we come for just a few weeks and with "things to see and things to do." This time they came to experience life as we know it--settled in, slowly, saying hello to friends at market, relishing window views, slow drives through the country side, coming home to plates of cheeses and meats, sipping wine before joining in to fix dinner, learning about fried artichokes, cheese and honey, fresh ravioli with sage and butter, cream in boxes and so much more. They saw lovely Italia through different eyes this time, and they enjoyed it.

We did do some day trips, exploring familiar places together--Lucca, Cortona, Firenze and little places around here--Volpaia, Montefioralle, Badia a Passignano, Castellina in Chianti, introducing them to the fun of exploring wonderful white roads.

And I learned somethings--like the huge San Lorenzo Market is closed on Monday's in winter. It was quite a shock to walk from the SITA station and see vast empty streets where normally there isn't space to walk. At first I thought that somehow we had lost our way to the familiar. Even many of the stalls in the Mercato Centrale were covered over and empty--it was all quite weird. Jan and Keith have been to Firenze but not the market which I knew they would enjoy--maybe next time. But, of course, in Firenze there is always much to do--if not one thing then another. We went to the Museo dell' Opera del Duomo, wandered, ate and watched the countryside on the bus ride back.

Lucca was Lucca--not with as many people as summer but, because it is a living town with real stores and many live-in inhabitants, it was active and busy even in the rain. Stores and restaurants were open for business.

But lovely Cortona was a different story. The streets that are so jammed that movement is hard the rest of the year were eerie and quiet. Store after store was closed. Few restaurants flaunted menus as the doors were locked and shuttered. Our footsteps echoed.

Alex, a friend of mine, owns a shop in Cortona,
Il Girasole, but it was closed. Fortunately, we were able to call her, and, when we told her we were waiting right outside the door, she graciously left her home to open it for us. What lovely things she has! Much of her inventory is repro- ductions of Etruscan jewelry and pottery but she also carries beautiful linen items with authentic renaissance Florentine designs and soft cashmere stoles from the Chianti Cashmere Company. Jan and I didn't resist buying things--jewelry, linens, Etruscan artifacts--after all, Alex had opened up just for us!

Cortona is home to my most favorite pasticceria shop in all of Italy. This is because of their totally wonderful meringue cookies filled with nuts--they are beyond delicious! Needless to say, I was more than happy when it was one of the few stores open that day.

So, when you go to Cortona, you really must indulge yourself, just have a salad for lunch. And if you are a chocolate lover, you may want to sample the ones filled with creamy chocolate. Um, Um Good!

With all that we did, I suspect their favorite was the meal at La Cantinetta di Rignana. What a wonderful meal that was--everything about it was "perfetto"--the ambience of the restaurant, the delightful personality of all of the staff and the marvelous food. It was a great evening. The restaurant is hidden in the hills and valleys of Chianti--you must take a white road to reach it, and yet people travel kilometers to spend an evening there. Just read about their cucina on the website and you'll make this a destination. To read more about it, check KZ's blog KZ in Toscana.

Jan and Keith left us early Thursday morning and it has seemed quite quiet since then--it is fun to have a full house with conversation and laughter. We will see them again in August--not here but there.