Venice--Not a One Night Stand

I love Venice--have since our first time there, which I think was 1999--or perhaps--a past life. So, it is hard when I hear people maligning it; they have missed the magic--the voices of whispered intrigue, the private but not-so-secret liasons of romance, the captains of sea trade and war, quiet whishes of gondola oars-on the way to an extravagant ball, the majesty and unfathomableness of a small republic built on wood pilings who for a while dominated Europe. What an amazing story this lady has to tell.

So, Venice can not be a day-trip or a one night stand. A traveler needs quiet times in La Serenissima. Minutes/hours spent in small campos and calles. It is the land of Vivaldi--music must be heard in the heart if not at the opera house. Time should be spent studying the magificent Tintorettos in the Scuola di San Rocco.








Visiting Venice is more completely a visit to eras and centuries gone by than any other place I know--unless visiting the dead places where life long ago abandoned them.

This time we were there with Casey, going on 13.








Last time we were there with Casey, going on 6.








We had a good time both times. I did miss the wide eyes and wonder of the little boy whose eyes were so fresh and to whom the world was so new, but, walking with a son who is taller than I and who puts an arm around my shoulder, telling me he loves me is a magic of its own.

This time we rented a very lovely apartment Ca Leonessa on a small side canal. The building was old but the apartment was 21st century--with Wii for Casey and wifi for me. Everything about it was top quality from the Le Creuset Cookware to wonderful beds--and, it was quiet at night. Out our window was the famous vegetable boat of Venice which probably has been photographed as many times as San Marco.

We were perfectly situated for getting almost every where.








We ate well, of course. The food of Venice is outstanding; although it is best to avoid the tourist hotspots or the places with pictures of food displayed on the walkway--usually a pretty reliable sign to move on. I was chagrined to overhear a woman on the train from Verona to Venice authoritatively telling a day-tripping family--"a word of warning, Venice is not known for its food." How I wanted to turn around and contradict.

For those foodies reading this, our very best meal and it was outstanding was at
Antiche Carampane. I had the little soft-shelled fried crabs which are a delicacy of Venice. Worth going there just for that meal.

There is much more to write about and maybe I'll do so domani or..maybe not. It may be that lazing at the pool, or driving to Panzano, or..or..or appeals more.

For the time being here are some pictures. These are for the most part random and quite incomplete. Loading from the iPad to flickr tonight was incredibly, super, aggrevatingly frustrating... this is the result.

Some, not many Venice pictures.

Ciao for now.

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