Italy has always been Italian and Rome has always been Roman. But you're wrong! Long before Romulus and Remus nursed from the she-wolf, the Etruscans produced a proud and accomplished civilization--as told by an abundance of pottery, tombs, funerary objects, metal works and frescoes left behind. Unfortunately, there is scant written record to address curiosity about these people who tantalize us with clues about what and who they were.
Throughout much of Italy, particularly in the Tuscan region, there are many Etruscan archaeological areas that have been uncovered and explored--and many still left to find. From these there is emerging insight into the people and customs, but understanding still remains both elusive and limited.
As you drive along the roads between villages, it is not uncommon to see little brown signs pointing up a hill or down a white road indicating somewhere in that direction can be found the remains of an Etruscan tomb. But--after chasing these signs a few times, you know that when you find it, you will probably be disappointed. Often what is at the end of that rainbow is very little--a mound, a small dirt enclosure, a gate that is locked--you are denied your quest after the journey. Once in a while though you are rewarded by a rare treat that makes you feel special for having seen it and then all the blind roads you have taken become worth it.
However--if you do your research, read your guide books, check the vast resources of the internet, talk with people, you will be able to plan time and itinerary to explore the special places where there is more to see and ponder. Such are the areas around the medieval hilltop towns of the Fiora valley in the Maremma hills of Tuscany--Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano.
Pitigliano is by far the largest of the three towns. It is an incredible site as you approach it and see it towering above you--seemingly a carved extension of the rock on which it is built. Once there you find a warren of lanes, blind alleys, curving narrow streets and steps. And, perhaps most interesting, are the structural remains of a medieval Jewish community.
This community was established in
the 16th century because of persecution within the papal states. Today there are remains of several buildings, including the refurbished synagogue,the ritual baths, the Unleavened Bread Bakery and the
wine cellar. There is also a small museum of Jewish culture in what was the first school and religious center.
Sovana and Sorano are very small villages that have periodically flirted with extinction but somehow have survived and now are destination places with hotels and restaurants. They, too, are interesting villages to explore--neither requiring much time.
In
Sorano there is a very old fortress which has had little outside restoration but has one wing that has become small hotel. We stayed there Halloween night and found it fascinating and fun --particularly as we were the only guests and the entire staff went home at 10:30. Our room was lovely and the view over medieval Sorano from our window was beautiful--even more so at night.
Sovana, unlike Pitigliano and Sorano is flat and small and easy to walk. The Church of Santa Maria in the main piazza has an incredible altar piece from the 8th century and some lovely frescoes. At the other end of town is the fascinating Il Duomo which really should be visited. And past that are some Etruscan ruins
The Marble Altar in Santa Maria
In Sovana there is now a beautiful 4**** hotel for those who like to splurge--or for those for whom such a place is not a splurge--
Sovana Hotel and Resort. Part of the structure is medieval but much of it has been recently built. There are exquisitely manicured grounds to stroll and a pool. It would be a nice place to stay for a couple of nights while exploring the Fiora Valley towns; however, my choice would remain the
Hotel della Fortezza in Sorano just because it is such a different experience. Resorts are anywhere -- fortezzas are few (ask for room 16.)
But--for the adventurer in search of mystery, it is outside of Sorana that holds the intrigue. It is in the valleys, crevices and hills surrounding these villages that you discover the Etruscans. Here you find ancient pathways carved out of mountains--barely wide enough for one person to traverse--with high straight walls covered with moss. You can only marvel and ask "how did they do it?"
The Hildebrand Temple Tomb
In the Sovana area there are examples of the different types of Estruscan tombs--some of them very elaborate indicating the high degree of sophistication and artistic capabilities of these people who survived for 10 centuries--beginning somewhere around VIII BC--and who taught the Romans much. And, because all the major types of funerary architecture of the region can be found here---chamber tombs, facade tombs, niche tombs, burial ditches and incredible temple tombs--,it is quite unique.
A Facade Tomb
In some of the Etruscan burial chambers which are carved out high on the mountains are found Christian crosses and, even in one case, a Madonna and Child fresco. These were carved by hermits who used these chambers as homes in medieval times.
Niche or little cave like tombs are numerous throughout the area and would have been the most common type. As you can see, Casey had fun with them.
We had time to explore just a little of this wonderland and so have plans to return. Many of the objects found by the archaeologists are now located in museums in Orvieto, Siena and others in the immediate area, as well as Etruscan museums throughout Tuscany--Firenze, Fiesole, etc, etc., etc. We feel fortunate in having visited many of these museums over the years. We had a better understanding of what these tombs had held and an appreciation for the people who had created them. Seeing the tombs without that background would be less meaningful. So.........our recommendation is that you hit the museums first and then explore.
English
When we were in one store, a call came in from a friend with whom we had eaten earlier, telling us to hurry to the corso as there was a marching band. We caught up with it just before reaching Piazza Signoria where they stopped and performed for quite a while. It was very cute and we laughed as we listened to John Phillip Souza in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.
their dance routines and tosses
and took off for dreamland.
hill top castles, monasteries and abbeys,
who is more-or-less the office manager for Alessandro--and super nice, helpful and incredibly efficient, told Ken she heard on the radio that this was the warmest November in 150 years!! This may be nice for us but it isn't so good for the health of the vines which need cold weather to kill the parasites which infect them and the mosquitoes that infect us.
Our Christmas tree is up and I love it. Our little home is so warm and inviting and cozy that when I think of our big house in California, it is a little overwhelming. Tonight with the tree lights on, candles lit, two little packages under the tree and carols playing on the IPOD, it was just very nice. Now I am upstairs in the loft and the tree lights below are reflected in the glass door. One little tree and it lights up the whole house. Couldn't do that at our other home.
last week-it just seemed the right thing to do. Mittens, gloves, scarves and boots have infiltrated the wardrobe and reside in the basket by the door. Wool socks and silk camisoles are on the shopping list. Winter is coming.
in a plastic pot. Trees here are not as perfectly formed and nurtured for their purpose as in the US. Our tree has such a unique personality and individuality that it demands to be loved--I will miss it next year, perfection will have lost its draw. Since we didn't bring lights, we must go to the piazza and hope to find some so that we can decorate tomorrow after school. When the season is over, Alessandro can plant the tree and Camilla will have a special way to remember Casey.
the tickets from the elderly man in the booth and hit a roadblock--I couldn't leave them. Kids have to be 9 to go in without an adult and Camilla and Casey are 8. He wouldn't budge and so that is how I ended up sharing a theater with a gaggle or two of children and seeing Happy Feet dubbed in Italian--I didn't even get the benefit of Robin Williams. I need to find out from Nicoletta her trick for getting them in. Maybe it's speaking Italian--do you think?
Now you know some of our special people and what a rich month we had in October. Each and every occasion was delightful and added immeasurably to our year here. I suspect that there won't be another 30 days like these but that's just fine. Ken and I have plenty to do just being here in Italy--things to see, people to meet, places to go, restaurants to find and dreams to live.
Pitigliano is by far the largest of the three towns. It is an incredible site as you approach it and see it towering above you--seemingly a carved extension of the rock on which it is built. Once there you find a warren of lanes, blind alleys, curving narrow streets and steps. And, perhaps most interesting, are the structural remains of a medieval Jewish community.
In Sorano there is a very old fortress which has had little outside restoration but has one wing that has become small hotel. We stayed there Halloween night and found it fascinating and fun --particularly as we were the only guests and the entire staff went home at 10:30. Our room was lovely and the view over medieval Sorano from our window was beautiful--even more so at night.
Sovana, unlike Pitigliano and Sorano is flat and small and easy to walk. The Church of Santa Maria in the main piazza has an incredible altar piece from the 8th century and some lovely frescoes. At the other end of town is the fascinating Il Duomo which really should be visited. And past that are some Etruscan ruins
But--for the adventurer in search of mystery, it is outside of Sorana that holds the intrigue. It is in the valleys, crevices and hills surrounding these villages that you discover the Etruscans. Here you find ancient pathways carved out of mountains--barely wide enough for one person to traverse--with high straight walls covered with moss. You can only marvel and ask "how did they do it?"
