Samburu National Reserve

Finally, after six hours of less than luxurious travel, we arrive at the Samburu Game Lodge—tucked away down dry dusty rutted roads in the midst of the reserve. This is not the lodge where we were supposed to stay but a horrific flash flood in March wiped out several camps and research facilities as well as overpowering many animals and, more tragically, some people. This lodge had suffered some damage but was able to reopen rather quickly.

As we drove into the lodge area, our safari began. There before us, welcoming us or so it seemed, stood a herd of elephants—mothers, babies, teenagers—refreshing themselves in the river. We knew the adventure was beginning.

 

One of the Families

When we arrived, we had not eaten since our early breakfast in Nairobi so were quite hungry. Although, it was late in the day for lunch, the lodge was prepared and had some nice menu choices waiting for us. At this point, I should explain that food on safari is outstandingly good. We found that to be the case in Tanzania and it was just as true in Kenya. If it weren't for all the bouncing around on the non-roads, I am certain that gaining weight would be a problem.

The dining area at the lodge is completely open and thus invites vervet monkeys to scavenge for crumbs and any morsels unthinking guests might want to throw them. To deal with this, the lodge employs Samburu tribesmen with slingshots meant to discourage the invaders. The show is quite comical at times as the monkeys are very adept at eluding and reappearing. It seems as if the men are having as much fun as the monkeys.

Casey with the Samburu Slingshot Artist

You might think that the Samburan's dress is for atmosphere and show as it might be in a venue in the Europe or the US. But such a thought would be inaccurate. Tribal people often dress like this in everyday life--walking through the bush, in their villages, etc. Necklaces, earrings, chest decorations, head bands, bracelets and color are a part of their pride. 

With that said, it is true that western clothes are also worn. Many of the young people have two identities. The one that is their cultural which is clung to and provides self and the other which is learned in school which begins the bridge between tribal life and the larger world. Heritage and tribe are fundamental to the people in the bush and so, even with a western style education, the return to the village calls.  

Facing the Lion: Growing up Maasai on the African Savanna, a book I bought for Casey but which we all read, gives an understanding of this. It is the story of a Maasai man who moves between the world of his heritage and the world he lives in now as an educator in the United States. The longing for the village, the tribe, his home never leaves and so he travels back sometimes to live the life of the Maasai warrior and cattle rancher.

After lunch we took our first game drive which was just OK. Animals seemed to have taken off to other parts of the reserve and left just a few teasers behind. 

And yet, as with every day, there was a highlight which made the scarcity worthwhile. As we turned down one rutted path, there to the side of us, was this gorgeous creature who obligingly sat and posed for several minutes before ambling off. We simply did not exist for him.

This was one of our "moments."

We spent another day and a half here before we headed on to Sweetwaters Camp which was a stop over on our way to the Mara. During this time we saw an amazing number of species of animals. We just didn't see them in large numbers--except for the small, adorable dik-diks which were innumberable.

As with each area we visited, there were some species that are only found in Samburu--such as the reticulated giraffe and giraffe gazelles.

 The Reticulated Giraffe has very pronounced and distinct markings.

One of the highlights of our time in Samburu was a visit to a Samburu village where we were warmly welcomed by Peter and Ben who are well-educated and have dreams. They so typify the conflict between desiring college and exercising their intelligence and the almost unbreakable bonds with their tribe and way of life.

At the village the pre-schoolers sang for us, the men tried to teach Casey how to start a fire with sticks, Ben took us into his home and explained it to us and we bargained with the village chief for a slingshot for Casey. It was a very eye-opening experience for Casey.

This little slideshow gives a glimpse into our time in Samburu.

From Samburu we left for Sweetwaters Camp--coming next. Look for Casey's camel ride.

Link to Flickr Kenya Collection: Kenya Photo Albums

Still On the Way to Samburu

Samburu National Reserve---6 hours of long, hard, bumpy, dusty drive from Nairobi. Much of it is interesting as we pass through what to our eyes are squalid villages with lean-to shacks housing businesses and homes. People mingle, mill and walk--intent on their purposes and destinations. Women line the roadways selling bags of charcoal freshly produced nearby from burning tree limbs. I wonder how many they sell a day--not many as each only has 3 or 4 bags. Surely the income cannot buy much.

Other women walk long distances to get water which they collect in small gasoline can size plastic bottles; then they face the long walk back. In some places there are water bores provided by the government. Here women congregate and talk while children play. We see most of these out in the bush where the Maasai live much as they have for decades. Other women balance baskets of bananas on their heads as they gracefully walk the road. Children in ill-fitting clothes play as all children do—laughing and having fun together, not realizing that theirs is a life of hardship. There isn't much stimulation or variety in what surrounds them.

However, Kenya now requires that all children go to school. Government and private schools dot the landscape. On school days we see uniformed, barefooted children walking many kilometers to reach their schools. A friend of mine here in the United States who is from Kenya has told me the educational system there is very good. Clearly, the educated younger generation is going to want more from life than their parents did. Will that be good?

 As we pass the shanty villages, it becomes clear that people are living in the modern 21st century world in spite of appearances of poverty and backwardness in time. A hand painted sign atop a topsy-turvy door proclaims computer repair services. Down the street stands another building where air blows through spaces between wall planks and dust swirls in the doorway. This business offers "clean copies and fax services as you wait." 

Entrepreneurs manning small lean-to sheds selling specialized wares--here it may be candy and small goodies; there it may soft drinks--dot the landscape. Beauty parlors, butcheries, furniture sellers, shoe stores—all that is part of a sustaining community—are open for business. Like many countries, men congregate and discuss the day's business, world affairs, women, whatever. And as in almost every place in the world today, mobile phones seem to be de rigueur.

We pass many "hotels" that are puzzling at first because they are so small with flailing cloth blowing out the window and doorway. Andrew explains that they are really restaurants or more accurately little places to get something to eat or drink. More often than not men crowd around the building, spilling out the door, finishing a quaff of something—maybe the famous Kenyan coffee. 

There is an established rhythm to life in these villages as well defined and meaningful as anywhere on earth. Love, happiness, weddings, children, disappointments, death, success and failure—they are all there. There is also hunger and illness and despair. Perhaps the abundance of small churches and larger tent meetings address these things and bring hope and acceptance.

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 If you wonder about the lack of pictures to accompany the narrative, I don't have any. Often I would want to snap the camera as we passed by or stopped but I was governed by a sense that this would infringe on the dignity of the people. As I would pick up the camera and flip off the lens cover, it just didn't seem right. So, I have my visual memories which I've tried to paint in words.

I was going to write about Samburu but still haven't gotten us there yet….next time! And, there will be pictures.

On The Way To Safari

Sometimes we're lucky and this trip was one of those times as all went according to plan in the getting there--in fact, even better than anticipated. Our flights connected perfectly, with most landing early. The luggage checked with United in San Diego arrived via KLM in Kenya. We had a 3 hour layover in Amsterdam which was tiring after the long flight from San Diego but with the adrenalin flowing, it wasn't that bad.

We traveled United business class from the US but had economy seats on KLM for the 8 hour flight to Nairobi, paying extra for economy comfort which provides a little extra leg room; however, once we settled in, it was pretty apparent that the extra legroom wasn't all that generous. It certainly was a far cry from business. Then the most amazing thing happened. 

As we settled in with our luggage stowed overhead and seat belts fastened, an attendant came to us and asked: "Are you the Parker party?" We confirmed that we were. She then handed us new tickets, saying "you may move to the next cabin." So, we found ourselves in the totally lush setting of KLM World Business class which is a blend of what would be business and first on a United 747. We still have no idea why we were so lucky. We have no history with KLM, no miles, no nothing. We were having one of those serendipity events that sometimes happen just when they are needed. Lay flat seats let us get some needed sleep--after enjoying a pretty sumptuous meal.

With this great windfall, we arrived to the sultry African air feeling much more refreshed than we might have. Our luck failed a little at this point as our luggage was about the last off the plane--a 747. We had a long wait for it and were just beginning to worry when our two lonely duffels came into view. Loading them on the dolly along with our carry-ons, we pushed through customs and found our driver/guide Andrew waiting for us.

From there was a 45 minute drive through Nairobi to the lodge where we were staying that night before beginning our safari adventure. This was our first introduction to Kenyan roads which can be pretty harrowing. If you have driven in Naples or have been to China, you can then have some appreciation of how they work. 

The Safari Park Hotel was lush and beautiful; although, since we arrived there at 10:30 at night and  had our wake up call at 6:30, we really didn't have a chance to enjoy it. After a good, huge breakfast, we climbed in the vehicle that became our home for the next 13 days and began our relationship with the man from Mombasa who became our guru and keeper and friend.

 Next: The road to Samburu National Reserve and what we found there. 

And...a sneak preview

From The Mara....

Quick note only: Sorry no blogging while in Kenya. Too busy, too much fun, Internet connection in the bush too slow.

I'll write all about it when we get back. Having spectacular time.

Wish you were here :-)

Kenya Tomorrow

Tomorrow we leave for Kenya but the getting there is a real drag. We arrive in Kenya 23:30 hours after boarding the first plane in San Diego. We go from here to Washington-Dulles (IAD); IAD to Amsterdam, hopefully, arriving in time for our KLM flight to Nairobi. Amsterdam is the main gateway to Kenya and Tanzania; however, it is also possible to go through France and the UK. The flight to Nairobi or Arusha is then longer.

In retrospect, I did not plan this well as we should have stayed in Amsterdam overnight and then onto Nairobi the next day. By the time I realized this and called United, the change in fare amounted to a shake-down so we elected to be tired.

We arrive in Nairobi at 5:30 pm, go to a hotel, hopefully have a good night's sleep and get up in the morning for the 4 hour drive in a Land Rover to Samburu National Reserve. The adventure begins.

A friend of mine asked if I would outline the details in preparing for a trip to Kenya--which were basically the same as those required when we went to Tanzania in 2002. There are three basic things that differ from preparing for Europe.

1. Visa: You need a visa which is easy. You simply fill out an on-line form and then mail your passport to an Embassy here in the United States. Your passport will be returned with the visa attached. Children under 16 do not need visas.
2. Shots: You will need yellow fever vaccination, typhoid vaccination, up-to-date polio, heb a and maybe hep b shots, and tetanus shot. Additionally you will be given maleria meds and meds in the event of severe diarrhea. In California, you must go to an infectious disease or travel doctor for the yellow fever and typhoid vaccines. But since most insurances won't pay for these doctors, we go to our regular doctor for the other shots. Be sure you do not wait until the last minute for the vaccinations.
3. Packing: Duffles are the way to go on safari. Hard sided luggage is not conducive to the type of travel and vehicles you will be using. You do not need an abundance of or fancy clothes. We basically rely on the zip off pants so that we can be warm in the mornings and evenings and comfortable in shorts in the heat of the day. 

It is important to understand the seasons in Kenya and Tanzania. There are two rainy periods, one of which you really want to avoid. The "long rains" between March and May (or early June) are really when you do not want to be there. This year in March there was a terrible flash flood in Samburu, our first stop. Many of the lodges were completely destroyed as well as, and more importantly, a major elephant research facility. The lodge where we were scheduled to stay was destroyed. Fortunately, we were able to get into one of the few lodges left habitable. There are also rains in October and November but they are not as severe.

In preparation for the experience, we watched several movies: Out of Africa, Born Free, To Walk with Lions, I Dream of Africa, National Geographic films and some other documentaries.  Because we are stopping in Amsterdam on the way back and taking Casey to the Anne Frank Haus, we also watched The Diary of Anne Frank.

There is another website which I have found fun to be a part of as we have planned. It is devoted to Africa and has been developed by a friend of mine, Nico Pannevis and his friend, both of whom grew up in Kenya. Their purpose is to preserve and support responsible growth in the country they love. The site is Bushdrums. Incidentally, many of you may know Nico as the famous and talented owner of Sant' Antonio in Montepulciano, Italy.

I am going to post pictures as we travel if the wi fi is strong enough--yes, there is wi fi in the bush! Well, at the lodges and camps anyway. If you are interested in following along with us visually, this is the link. Photo Gallery. There is a folder for each area we will be exploring. The photos there now are place holders I downloaded from the various camps where we will be staying. So, feel free to join us in the adventure.

From Our Tanzania Safari  2002