Casey, Travels and Other Musings

Magnificent Karnac and Colorful Luxor Temples

2012-01-26T16:54:00.000-08:00

A Painting from an ancient Christian Church inside the

walls of the more ancient Luxor Temple

When exploring within ancient temples, there are always surprises. As in the less ancient Greek and Roman buildings which often transformed and morphed into many permutations over the centuries, so too the temples of pharaohs.

Other than the halo you can't really see this, but it is a painting of the Virgin Mary

on a pillar in Karnac.

Our last two cruise nights were spent docked at Luxor, the site of the very large ancient city of Thebes. It does seem strange but as the ship docked in such a way that our cabin faced the Nile, we had more time to enjoy its serenity and peace-particularly as there were not gaggles of other cruise ships parading by. We enjoyed leaving in the morning, visiting the huge Karnac temple complex and Luxor Temple, which is right in the city of Luxor, and then returning to the ship for a late lunch, relaxing on the sundeck with new friends and enjoying the galaibya party and dinner.

Because we had a private guide and were continuing on in Luxor for a few days, we had a more leisurely day than others who followed the cruise schedule. They did both temples in the morning, came back to the ship for lunch and then went to the Valley of the Kings in the afternoon. This would have been an exhausting itinerary, and, in fact, folks were dragging a little bit.

Anyone who has ever perused the National Geographic or watched the Discovery Channel or Planet Green knows of Karnac--the huge complex of three temples dedicated to the god Amun-Ra, the goddess Mut and the god Montu. Amun was the main divinity of Thebes. Through several dynasties, 13 centuries, this monumental complex was added to with small side temples, mortuary temples, statues, pillars, living areas and rooms and buildings of unknown purpose. Today we see it in bits and pieces, some parts more complete than others but nothing is whole. The massive pillars are impressively awesome in their rows and columns with colors, usually muted but occasionally bright, still showing in places; I found myself wondering what it was like when priests and royalty walked through their shadows.

Although both Mut and Montu have their own temples and precincts within the complex, visitors only see the "precinct of Amun-Ra" which is what we mostly think of when we reference Karnac and what most visuals show. The other two temple areas are still being uncovered and restored. You can see them but not go to them--disappointing. They are much older and go back to even more ancient gods of Thebes.

From Karnac, after buying an Anubis (the two headed jackel god of afterlife and mummification) statue for son Jeff--his one request of us. Of course, as with anything in Egypt, bargaining is the expectation so we needed to go through that exercise--which is not one of my favorite cultural experiences--anywhere, we moved on.

Our next and last stop for the day was Luxor Temple which sits among the streets and shops of Luxor. This temple and Karnac were connected via a two mile "parade route" which was used for ceremonial processions. It was lined on both sides with sphinx which are now being dug up and replaced along the ancient road. This is a slow process as existing buildings are needing to be torn down to do this.

It is thought that Luxor Temple was mostly a sanctuary dedicated to the celebration of the royal "ka" soul of the ruler which was passed from father to son. If so there would have been ceremonies to confirm the hereditary transfer of the king's sacred powers-Ka-to his son; however, much of this is still conjecture. There are many colossal statues here, including the greatly egotistical Ramses II and his favorite Nefertari who were the subjects at Abu Simbel. Like Karnac, it was constructed over a period of several dynasties. In time, the Romans converted chapels into servicing Roman gods, then Christians had churches within the walls and finally Islam entered the area. At the entrance is a structure with triple religious heritage--ancient Egyptian temple, Christian church and finally, on top, a mosque in use today.

The bottom is ancient Egypt. If you look half way up, you will see reddish doors which were the Christian church (at the time it was built the Egyptian portion was underground) and on top you can see the mosque with a part of the minaret.

There is so much to tell about these temples and complexes but if you are interested, it will be much easier to click on the links which I have provided as the information is far more complete and intelligible than I can provide.

(Remember you can enlarge this to full screen)

And now....the final night and the galaibya party. From what I gather these parties are traditional to Nile cruises. A galaibya is an Egyptian garment of a certain style; it should be full length but some people simply choose a shirt---while other people don't dress up at all. It really is a very casual, do whatever you want event.

When in Cairo, we decided that we would do it all, so Casey and I bought our galaibya there and got really nice ones. Ken bought a cheapie on board which was just as well as I can't imagine that we will wear them again. Well, maybe Casey will have a reason at some point. He looked very impressive in his.

And this is the charming, beautiful couple from Hong Kong that were part of our table, Wayne and Iris

....this was the end of the cruise. The next morning we were packed and out of there by 9. Next stop: the famous, mystical Valley of the Kings and Christmas in Luxor. And then....PETRA

Kom Ombo and Edfu Temples (& belly dancers)

2012-01-21T16:50:00.000-08:00

OK--I must admit, one might think that if you've seen one temple, you've seen them all. And even more--at times it almost seemed that way. But...and there are always buts...it just isn't true. Each is different in its awe inspiring grandiose existence; each further underscores the admiration for the architects, builders, lowly laborers, dreamers, artists, carvers, technicians and scientists who so long ago created such megalithic beauty. And yes, I do leave out the pharaohs and their consorts who commissioned such memorials to their time on earth and hoped for passage to the next. They are not the ones who left us these testimonials to the past. Well, actually, that isn't true, as if it were not for desires for immortality, none of this would have been done. So, yes, do include them, it is only right. Plus, they did build rather remarkable civilizations.

I do need to back up for a moment to last night--the great Belly Dancer/Whirling Dervish Show. I had been teasing Casey that he would not be allowed to see such depravity--much too young for witnessing the gyrating, sweaty female form shaking tassels and whatever. And..I was only half teasing as I remembered what Ken and I had seen in Istanbul. In my sometimes puritanical mind, it just wasn't kosher to take a child--yes, he is 13 but definitely a child--to a "girlie" show.

But, since this was a more-or-less family cruise, I figured it would be "va bene" (as we say in Italy.) As it was, I need not to have worried as this belly dancer was no more than could be seen at any middle school dance--which, now that I think about it, can be pretty raunchy sometimes. There was no belly on display and the shakes and shimmies were pretty pathetic. The kids, who were all sitting together acting grown up throwing peanut shells on the carpet, actually got pretty bored.

After the aged woman (I forgot to mention the age) came the whirling dervish who was quite entertaining and spectacular. He gave a good show with a costume that lit up with multi-colored lights as he twirled and whirled non-stop for 15-20 minutes. I am quite certain that the real dervishes in Turkey do not use colored lights--but then, they are not on cruise ships, either. We all enjoyed him--adults and kids. I am sorry, though, having just scoured all three cameras, it seems we took no pictures of these two. I would have loved to share this with you. Oops--here is the non-belly dancing belly dancer--or, actually, she did have a belly.

Back to two more amazing temples...Kom Ombo and Edfu-Temple of Horus.

The Temple of Kom Ombo was dedicated to two deitites--Sobek, the feared crocodile god and Horus, god of victory and war; he was also a doctor and healer. Sobek's wife was Hathor, usually depicted as a revered cow. She was the goddess of fertility and childbirth and the protector of female royalty along with many other things in Egyptian mythology. She was later equated with Venus and Aphrodite. It seems that the gods were very versatile in their benevolence and influence.

Kom Ombo is the only temple we visited which sits squarely on the banks of the Nile. It is a pretty impressive site as it magically materializes when you round a bend in the river--there it is just waiting to be explored.

View of Kom Ombo from the Ship

If you look closely, you will see important carvings

of the medical tools used by physicians in Egypt .

Our next stop, after docking overnight at Edfu, was a buggy ride to the Temple of Horus at Edfu. As with all the temples, this one has something special that distinguishes it from the others. It is almost wholly intact--with roof, ceiling, complete walls and interior rooms. For the most part temples are skeletons of what they once were so it is is fascinating to see more completely what was.

Horus was the son of Isis and Osiris after Isis was able to revive Osiris who had been killed by his evil brother Set. Horus eventually was able to avenge his father's death and destroy Set. Osiris became the god of afterlife. (The truth is that these stories are very convoluted and complex with confusing twists and turns and so what I offer is super simplified.)

We were driven to Edfu in rather delipated, much used carriages..

but they got us there and back. Riding the streets was interesting.

Another reminder as to just how enormous these places are.

And, the people of Egypt were small people.

Temple of Horus at Edfu Facade

The Sanctuary of Horus and barge. Inside Edfu Temple

Horus and Us

I must give credit to Casey at this point as he is my guru in recognizing all these gods and creatures and their interconnectedness. He studied this in 6th grade and I am in awe of what he remembers and learned.

He had a good teacher. Thank you, Mrs. Maier.

This was a good day--well, they all were--and we haven't even been to Karnac, Luxor and Petra, yet. So much in so little time.

Things were more or less quiet on-board this night. There was to be an "elegant" attire party with the ship's captain and other staff; however, elegant was not very elegant which was fortunate as I had no elegance with me. We had a quiet dinner with our table mates whom we had enjoyed--particularly Casey as Camille was at our table. She and her parents were from Singapore and then we also had a beautiful young couple from Hong Kong. It is so nice when you like the people you eat your meals with as there were assigned tables.

(If you can, enlarge to full screen.)

While sleeping we sailed onto Luxor where we awoke the next morning.

Next: Karnac, Luxor Temple, Hatshpsut, Valley of the Kings, and Christmas on the Nile.

The Moon Goddess and Philae Temple

2012-01-17T19:25:00.000-08:00

Flying from Abu Simbel to Aswan didn't take long at all--short hop. We were met at the airport by Mohamed who would be our guide throughout the cruise and the rest of our time in Egypt. It was nice to know that we would have that continuity through the various temples and places we would be the next few days. We had elected to have our personal guide rather than using the ship's guides as we wanted to set our pace a little and, theoretically, learn more. I say theoretically as we were very impressed with what we saw of the ship guides and their knowledge of ancient Egypt and sites. It was nice, though, to not be in groups.

Us with Mohamed

The Nile cruise is fairly unique as it travels only about 200 km (124 miles) which is an interesting feat when you are on a 4 night cruise. Actually, we were on board for 4 nights but the first night was spent in Aswan where we boarded and the last two were in Luxor where we ended. The one other night was in the Edfu Temple area. Our ship was the Moon Goddess which was quite nice--pretty laid back and comfortable.

This was another instance of how decimated tourism is right now. We were there at high season when normally there are hundreds (so I am told ) of cruise ships sailing the Nile. What we saw were untold ships tied up along the shore with curtains drawn and no sign of life. When we docked, there were only 6 or 7 other ships when normally there would be a long shore line of ships docked 6 deep. Even then, the Moon Goddess was less than half full. Some friends we made on board who had just traveled the opposite way from Luxor to Aswan told us there had only been 8 people on board then. We were glad that there were more going our direction--they were, too. It was more fun--particularly as they had a 13 year old daughter who became Casey's constant companion. Problem being that they are from Singapore. He always has these long distance interests, it seems.

For those of you who know Casey, it may make you smile that his friend's name is Camille

Of course having fewer ships plying the waterways made our cruise much nicer, having the river almost to ourselves. Rarely would we pass or see another ship. We could sit on our balcony watching the banks of the Nile pass by imaging we were seeing what Ramses or Cleopatra or Caesar had seen millenia ago. We could watch the fishermen in their tiny boats, beating the water trying to scare fish into their nets. Surely much like as has been done for centuries.

Shortly after boarding the ship, we had a felucca sail ride--a must do experience when on the Nile. It was relaxing and a nice quiet interlude after our several days of site-seeing. After the sail, Mohamed took us to downtown Aswan where we stopped for tea and he spent some time on a water pipe. I had thought I would try this but Casey adamantly did not want me to; in fact, he was nothing short of panicked about it. So...guess I will never know what that is like.

Once we went back to the boat it was time to dress for dinner (well, dress meant a clean pair of jeans and shirt) and go to the pre-dinner show which was pretty not good. Can't even remember what it was; however, I am certain it was better than the belly dancer the next night. Dinner was good and then it was time to relax with books before bedding down.

The next morning, we were trundled off by Mohamed and the driver to board the little boat to take us to the island of the ancient Temple of Philae--dedicated to Isis. This temple is similar to Abu Simbel in that it was moved from one location to another--from an island very close to where it now is. After the construction of the first Aswan dam at the beginning of the 20th century, the waters slowly took over Philae and for many years it was pretty well submerged. In the 1960's the effort began to move the temple, block by block, to where it is now--another marvel of 20th century know-how.

Philae, like all the temples, is impressive in size, carvings, doorways, pillars and stories spelled out in pictures and hyroplyphics. Again, no crowds, no people--strange places these days. In years gone by, only the gods and royalty could come here. That must have been somewhat like it is these days--except now gods and royalty have become rare tourists from far away places.

Pyramids, temples, tombs---these folks sure did things big. Next: Kom Ombo and Edfu.

Incredible Abu Simbel

2012-01-13T17:55:00.000-08:00

Check out the man sitting at the temple doorway to get a feel for the

immense size of this achievement.

Ramses II can not be ignored nor his existence questioned. As our guide loved to say--he was The Pharaoh Who Loved Himself and who trumpeted himself as "loved by Amun."Abu Simbel clearly is the most definitive example of this; although, his visage and presence can be found everywhere in the Nubian region of Egypt.

Abu Simbel represents two remarkable human achievements. It was literally carved out of the mountainside, as opposed to being built from blocks of stone in a chosen location, in the 13th century BC--a long time ago. It is actually a complex composed of two temples--the one above which was his and a second one right next door for his favorite consort Queen Nefertari (not to be confused with the more famous Nefertiti.)

Temple of Hathor and Nefertari

Do note though that in Neferatri's facade, there are more representations of Ramses II than of her. Hathor was the "cow goddess of love" whom the queens of Egypt represented.

The carving of these temples out of the rock would be a phenomenal achievement in our century. To have it accomplished 34 or so centuries ago blows the mind.

The second testimony to the ingenuity of man is that it even exists today for new generations to marvel at and enjoy. When the man-made Lake Nasser reservoir was built as a result of the construction of the Aswan Dam across the Nile River, many temples were in danger of being submerged and lost forever under the waters. Through a massive effort on the part of 51 nations and UNESCO many of the temples were relocated either in Egypt or given as gifts to nations who had helped in the salvage.

The most remarkable of these efforts was the moving of the Abu Simbel complex 65 meters up the mountain. This entailed "building" a new mountain including a concrete dome to then be camouflaged to resemble the original hill. Today it appears as if these temples were always where they are now--it is truly an amazing feat of engineering and incredible vision of those who "knew" it could be done. Today the original location is completely submerged under the waters of Lake Nasser.

Backing up a little now:

We flew from Cairo to the small airport at Abu Simbel where we were met by Mustafa who became our driver and guide. He took us to our delightful one night accomodations, the Eskaleh Nubian Ecolodge which is quite unique and, in our mind, special (You might want to spend a minute or two on their website.) It's a far cry from luxury but it seems real. This is Nubian territory and so the attempt of this lodge is to give a flavor of what Nubian is. It also has its own sustainable farming program, growing the produce they use. We found it interesting to watch their farming process which is pretty inventive.

That night we went to the Sound and Light show which is said to be one of the best in Egypt. I can't vouch for that but we thoroughly enjoyed it and thought it was well done. Again the dearth of visitors was apparent as the seating area is large enough for 100's of people--bus load--and yet there were only 7 of us. In fact, they normally do not do the show for fewer than 8 but somehow they took pity on us--maybe because they appreciate the fact that some people are not being deterred from coming.

The next morning we were up before dawn to be at the temples in time to see the sun rise on them. The colors change dramatically plus it is fascinating to see how the Ramses II temple was constructed so that the sun would shine directly into the temple--illuminating all the way to the back.

After watching this, we went inside both temples to see the drawings and hieroglyphics from long ago--still brilliant in their colors with battle scenes and story lines easy to decipher. Normally there are lines to go in here--but---it was just we 3, having all the time we wanted to look and explore the little rooms. I did take some pictures (without flash) even though it is now frowned upon. The truth is picture taking has just recently been stopped due to people ignoring the requests not to use flash so, I felt I was not being really bad.

After the morning excursion, we went back to Eskaleh and had a very good breakfast on the veranda looking down to Lake Nasser.

We had a short time to explore the farming process before packing up again and heading to the airport to fly to Aswan and the beginning of the legendary Nile Cruise.

Coptic Cairo, Old Cairo, Casey and Horses

2012-01-11T16:40:00.000-08:00

Our time in Cairo was much too short and I would love to go back someday and see more of it; although, with so much of the world unexplored, I suspect that won't happen. Anyway, we had just two days there, plus the first night. This wasn't very much time at all.

The second full day we headed back into the Islamic center of Cairo to the historical Khan el Kahlili souk (bazaar) which goes back to the 14th century. Originally it was a caravan rest stop along the trade route and established what is now Egypt as a major player in the trade business. Today it is a fascinating warren of shops and stalls selling all types of things--much of it aimed at the tourists; however, Egyptians still frequent and shop here. I would have liked more exploration time than we had except for the hawking that is endemic to Egypt.

We did take a rest break at the El Fishawy tea house sandwiched between shops and stalls. We had a good time just sipping mint tea and watching the activity around us.

Us with THE Ultimate Trip Planner Ahmed

From here we went to Old Coptic Cairo which has been a Jewish/Christian center since the time of Jesus. Under the oldest Coptic Church, which was having a service while we were there, it is said there is a cave used by the Holy Family when they fled Jerusalem to escape the massacre of boys by Herod. We were not allowed to take pictures inside so the outside must do.

We also saw the old Jewish synagogue which is meticulously maintained. As with all synagogues we have visited in our travels, it was necessary to go through a security check in order to enter.

Later we drove into the countryside to the Step Pyramid at Saqqara. This was the first pyramid and, though the largest structure of its time, much smaller than the pyramids of Giza. Originally there was a wall surrounding with a large courtyard and entrance with huge niches for various statues and offerings. Today only a small part remains although archeological digs are exposing more. There is stabilizing work being done, making it difficult to recognize how awesome it would be to see it just rising up out of the desert.

Once we walked through the entrance hall, Casey spotted horses and convinced us that the camel ride of the day before really wasn't enough. He wanted, really wanted to ride a horse. For a long time his dreams have been a city boy's dreams--to if not own a horse, to at least ride. Of course, the little jaunt here, being led by the horse's owner, doesn't truly qualify as riding but for him it was fun.

As with so much of what we did in Egypt, there were few people there except for the Egyptians and their horses and camels. The reminders are constant as to the economic hardships those who are dependent on tourists are facing.

On our return to Cairo, we stopped at a little roadside restaurants for a good lunch. Clearly it is meant for tourists as at the stairs leading down, men were playing music--but it was fun. Women, as we saw throughout Egypt, were at the outside ovens making bread.

On a leisurely return to Cairo, it was nice to not be in traffic, we enjoyed the villages and small towns along the way--watching daily life go on around us. We were however, appalled by the dirt and filth along the roadway and the canal that ran along side the road. At one point, we really thought our eyes were deceiving us when we saw three dead horses lying in the water. Ahmed explained that the canal and roadside are cleaned twice a week. There is a current project which covers up the canal and makes very pretty and nice green parkways along the way. It had been finished as we got closer to Cairo and will be a big improvement once it is totally completed. But, one of our take away visuals along with all the wonders we saw is that Cairo is a dirty city inspite of its charms and intrique.

And..that is our brief but memorable time in Cairo--a place in the spotlight these days. We saw such a small glimpse of it that it seems we were hardly there. Maybe a return some day--as I said above.

I need to give kudos to the wonderful Ahmed Hamed Yousif who planned our entire trip, Egypt and Jordan. I can not sing his praises enough. We had several plane flights, a cruise, hotels, guides and other arrangements and all was perfection. Plus Ahmed was our personal guide in Cairo. I highly recommend him to any and all.

Next Up: Incredible Abu Simbel

Cairo, Camels and Chaos--and Ahmed

2012-01-08T21:59:00.000-08:00

After a brief time at the hotel, time to freshen up a little, explore a little, and rest a very little, Mohammed and Mohammed picked us up for a quick drive into Cairo to the Al Ahzar park where we were to have dinner--a gift from Ahmed, whom we still had not met. We were, of course, tired (very) and so did not wander around this huge park area with dancers, strollers, lovers (inconspicuous as this is an Islamic country) as much as we would have liked. We did enjoy dinner at the restaurant at the top of the park with amazing views and then after a quick stroll, back to the hotel--to sleep!! Ah, yes. Except first we went to a Sound and Light Show at the pyramids--a great introduction for the rest of our trip. It was quite good as the lights played on the Sphinx and pyramids--and quite informative. A good history lesson.

Arrival Night

The most amazing eye-opener about that first drive and all subsequent ones was the mind-boggling, incredible, frightful, crazy, bizarre traffic behaviors. The streets are a mix of vehicles of all types and vintages--trucks-piled high with boxes and "stuff", cars, taxis, vans, buses, donkey carts, an occasional camel, horses, push carts and thousands upon thousands of pedestrians crossing and darting where ever and whenever, oblivious to the traffic and near misses. There are no such thing as lanes, or at least ones that are adhered to. Nor are there many lights or signals. When there are, often there is a policeman causing more consternation than if he had not been there. Definitely paying attention to lights is not in the psyche. Vehicles of all kinds try to enter from side streets with no order or means of doing so. Having been in Naples, Palermo, China and other places notorious for traffic nightmares, we still were not prepared for Cairo. Nothing, nothing nothing at all comes close to the 5* chaos there. A true testimony to the skills of our driver Mohammed, we always felt safe and with a master in control--amazing. Oh, as cars pass within milimeters of each other, no vehicle has an intact side.

After a surprisingly good sleep in very comfortable beds, we opened the drapes to gaze, transfixed on the huge Cheops pyramid--a site that always seemed millions of miles away from wherever we were. Now, we could reach out and touch..well, almost.

After breakfast, we were picked up by driver Mohammed and, finally, got our hugs from Ahmed whom we had been corresponding with for months. He has a smile that is warm, friendly and says that you are in for a good time.

Ahmed and Mohammed

After greetings, we trundled into our van, Mohammed motored our way through the streets and we ended in Tahrir Square and the Egyptian Museum. Quiet prevailed. There were no lines at the museum where we were first in. One of the many amazing experiences we had on this trip was being in the room with the riches of King Tut exhibits totally to ourselves--just to wander at will, taking as long as we wanted, soaking it all in. Usually there are snaking lines through this area with no time to absorb.

During the January revolution, Ahmed had been one of the men protecting the museum from looters. He told us the story of guarding the Tut area when he heard a noise from above. Someone was entering from the window at the top of the museum--the floor with King Tut. When Ahmed and others cornered this guy, he told them he was just looking for a bathroom. Funny story.

That night when we turned on CNN, we discovered that later in the day there had been a bloody demonstration in Tahrir Square but, as we soon learned, demonstrations are very localized and the rest of society goes on as usual. We had no clue there had been a problem in the very peaceful place we had visited that morning.

After lunch, we headed back to Giza and to the pyramids. When you look at the slide show to follow at sometime, do notice how uncrowded they were. Tourist are truly staying away from Egypt which is really too bad as so much of the population relies on tourism and, at least in our experience, it is quite safe.

After climbing on Cheops for a while and looking out over Cairo, we drove around to the back where there were even fewer people. It was more desolate (more like you think the pyramids will be) with colorful camels and drivers awaiting the few tourists who might show up--us. Although I had no intention of climbing on a camel, I somehow found myself hooked up with Moses and the three of us were off on an unexpected jaunt. It was an experience--probably one to have as it is so quintessential Egypt--but once is enough for sure.

The rest of the first day was spent at a papyrus place getting a wall decoration for Casey and a jewelry shop as Casey's really wanted a cartouche necklace. I should say, we had to ask Ahmed to take us these places as he does not like to take his clients shopping--rare with tour guides. Oh yes, we also bought galabeyas for the cruise--you'll see these a couple entries from now.

That night we ate at the very excellent Indian cuisine restaurant at the hotel. It was very good; although Casey's spicy chicken was hotter than he anticipated--much hotter. Amazingly, he kept ploughing through it as the steam poured from his ears. We still hear about it.

And..now you've traveled our first day with us. Camels and all. Tomorrow--Day 2 in Cairo and a slide show.

Cairo, Camels and Chaos--But First the Background

2012-01-07T14:01:00.000-08:00

December 26, 2010--we were hit by a lightening stroke of total brillance--why not go to Egypt and Jordan for Christmas 2011? After all, Casey had been mesmerized by Egypt in 6th grade when a teacher brought it alive for him. Ken and I had fantasized about someday seeing this "far away" place ever since our first encounters with the National Geographic. Thus, in our rather unorthodox minds, it made sense to spend Christmas vacation in these ancient Biblical lands--the lands of Moses and Exodus and pharaohs.

January 18, 2011--having talked with a friend who recommended a great resource in Cairo who would plan our trip for us, having then checked with other people who had used his services and exchanged a convoluted series of e-mails with Ahmed Hamed Yousif we sent a rather hefty deposit via a bank transfer.

January 25, 2011--the Egyptian Revolution erupted in full measure, no little preparatory events leading up to it--suddenly it was just there. People were desperately trying to get out of Egypt, the US State Department was evacuating staff and families, airports were not functioning due to demands, pictures on the internet were intimidating and frightening, camels were being driven through the streets, people were dying. It was a time of confusion.

Our first thought was to cancel our plans so I contacted Ahmed about returning our deposit which could be done by reversing the transfer--I had checked that with our bank. Ahmed returned with a 15 page e-mail (he likes to write) telling us how actually things in Cairo were not unsafe--only in the area of demonstration--Tahrir Square, and that life in general was just moving on as normal. He assured us that there was no reason to cancel at that time and encouraged us to just to wait and see. So....we gulped large and decided to "just wait and see" although it seemed rather difficult to believe what Ahmed was saying.

THE Ahmed

Can you believe this scene? Where is everybody?

We then made our business class (it is a long ride from San Diego to Los Angles to New York to Egypt) plane reservations using award points. If we decided not to go, we could redeposit the miles (for a fee, of course.) As we would not need to give anymore money to Ahmed until we arrived in Cairo, the most we could lose would be the deposit--so we decided to gamble a while longer. Of course, by now the possibility of trip insurance was nil.

As the months moved on, we had frequent discussions about the wisdom of going--sometimes we were sure we would while other times we were pretty well convinced that it wasn't going to happen. Ahmed was always encouraging while friends, for the most part, thought we were crazy. Each time there was a new outbreak of violence, the second guessing would renew; however, there was never a time when it seemed appropriate to throw in the towel. The US State Department was just advising to be careful and stay away from demonstrations--well, yeah! If they had ever said not to go, we would have listened.

The upshot of all of this was that we boarded our first plane at 6:41 am on Thursday, December 15 and arrived in Cairo 19 hours later at 11:45 am on Friday, December 16. The flights were easy, Egypt Air business had flat beds so we slept, the food was actually good and the attendants were the best we have experienced in years--harkening back to when it was fun to fly. We were ready to explore and experience.

Mohammed and Mohammed met us at the airport, loaded our luggage into a beautiful air-conditioned, comfortable van and we headed out to Giza and our first hotel The Oberoi Mena House. We were somehow upgraded to a suite in the old palace part of the hotel--nice! And..this is what we saw from our window...

Breathtaking and surreal.

Next: Cairo, Camels and Chaos and We Finally Meet Ahmed

Photo Hunt - Lights

2011-12-10T08:53:00.001-08:00

A friend of mine at Whistle Stop Cafe is moderating the site Saturday Photo Hunt which I just learned about now--being slow at some things. I think I will try to keep up with this and post a theme picture each week (except for the next two when I will be cavorting in Egypt and Jordan.) It does sound like fun and it will be even more fun to enjoy the pictures others will post.

BTW, this Whistle Stop Cafe is THE Whistle Stop Cafe of fried green tomatoes movie fame. You might want to check it out some--particularly if you like all things southern in your food choices.

Anyway, this week's theme is Light which immediately brought to mind a picture which I took last summer in Venice. You know how every once in a while the total amateur photographer does something just right? Well, this was it for me.

Time for the Surreal-

2011-12-03T10:12:00.001-08:00

I guess that is the best way to describe my current mind set. We've traveled to many places--countries and continents. And yet this trip has me mystified.

Planning to see elephants and lions up close on the savannahs in Tanzania and Kenya invited great anticipation. In perusing pictures of Machu Picchu, it was hard to absorb the grandeur of this place in the skies of the Andes. Caves of Cappadocia, THE David, spitting iguanas and blue-footed boobies in the Galapagos, the great wall of China, the grand library of Ephesus, the Berlin Wall,--all have given moments of awe at the great diversity and places in this world.

But, nothing compares with the thought of seeing the pyramids which were millinia old when Cleopatra rolled up in a rug to greet Caesar and then romanced Antonius. And today I wonder about that moment when the last of the ancient wonders of man come into view. It is inconceivable that it will be anything other than a "this can't be true" moment.

I've stolen (or borrowed) this picture from my friend Liz, taken when she and Richard were at the Mena House Hotel--where we, too, will be the first night in Egypt. Come with us!

But, the thing that makes this travel even more surreal is the time of year we are doing it--Christmas--a time when we decorate our house to resemble windows of department stores in days gone by, a time when family gathers around the tree at night to enjoy the lights and the season's serenity, the moments of oohs and aahs Christmas morning as treasures unfold from colorful papers, a time of carols, trees, Santa and reindeer.

2008

And most importantly, the time the Christian community joins together in praising the birth of the baby who was the Lord Jesus Christ.

Last January, when we first flew the idea of Egypt at Christmas, we sat with Casey and explained what it would mean, including just a couple presents (dear to a child's heart) as the gift for all of us would be the trip. He was totally enthusiastic--yes, he could give up presents and all that the season here has to offer--no problem. So, we began to make plans, signed on with a highly recommended Egyptologist in Cairo, used award points for plane tickets and for hotels, began researching to know more about places to see and things to do. Then----the Arab Spring came to Egypt--what to do? In our daring, we decided to ignore it and to go ahead with the plans.

Now, the time is here and Casey is rethinking his willingness to forgo Christmas. The Christmas tree lot beckons, thoughts of an Xbox 360 are enticing, movies with friends sound fun, Christmas Eve services bring memories--yes, leaving is hard. But, the time for indecision is past and so Christmas day will be spent in Luxor in an Islamic nation. Surely this will be an unusual year and create a one of a kind Christmas memory.

We are taking his stocking with a few little trinkets with which to fill it. We are taking 2 or 3 small gifts, so that Christmas morning will have a flavor of what it is here. We are taking our bible to read the Christmas story in Luke--not sure that there will be bibles in the night stands of Egypt. We are not taking a tree, an Xbox 360 or a ham--our traditional Christmas meal. And in writing that, I just realized that the hotel will probably not serve ham--wonder what will be on the menu, probably lamb and chicken and hummus, which I know Casey will not even touch.

Speaking of which, one of the great mysteries for me right now is just what Casey will eat there and in Jordan, where we go to visit Petra. For a child who has traveled the world, he has no curiosity or tolerance for diversity in food; in fact, he is a true, obnoxious pain when it comes to eating. So, he may starve. Ya think? Yes, there is fish--he doesn't like fish. Yes, there are veggies--what? eat something nutritional and good for you--particularly if it's green. Try something new that may be deliciously good--no way. Yes, it is one of his very annoying character traits.

Today he is with his church group decorating the homes of seniors in our church who need help. I asked if we qualified but we're not on the schedule. Just as well, per a couple paragraphs back.

So, in less than two weeks, we will be in the air--God willing and if all the connections work. I wonder if our first glimpse will be from the air. That would be spectacular maybe, but, maybe not. I'll let you know.

Happy holidays to everyone.

Where Else? Egypt, Of Course!

2011-11-09T10:50:00.000-08:00

Isn't everyone's itinerary including Egypt these days? Well, maybe only for those who court the unexpected and like to believe they are undaunted by fear. Others, I know, see this as foolhardy and "out-of-your-mind" dumb.

Whatever. We are going as long as the State Department says we can and and right now they are giving the go-ahead...with the caveat to be careful and watchful. Of course, the first stage of elections in November may have significant impact and things could change in an instant. We shall see. In 1986 we were in Berlin shortly after Libya bombed the night club there. We were scheduled to fly to Italy September 12, 2001 and left on one of the first flights out on September 18. We seem to travel at strange times.

Gone are the days when we could just pull Casey out of school and provide basic instruction while we hit the world scene.

San Gimignano 2003--1st Grade

In the 8th grade, he has advanced geometry, Spanish, high level English and history courses--along with pe and science. At this point he has outstripped our ability to provide home schooling. Content and expectations have changed significantly since we were in school when geometry didn't happen until 10th grade. It is harder now--contrary to what the common perception may be.

So, because we are restricted in our travels by his schooling, last January we decided to go some place this Christmas season. We wanted a place significantly different from our previous travels, a place that would open new vistas, allowing us to experience cultures and places holding a fascination for all three of us. Pyramids, magnificent Pharaonic tombs in the Valley of Kings, the great Karnac complex, Ptolemaic temples along the Nile and rose colored Petra seemed perfect. Casey had been fascinated with all things Egyptian since studying ancient cultures in 6th grade and the area had been on Ken and my list for years. Yep, this would be perfect.

After a quick check with a friend whom I knew had a wonderful experience in Egypt arranged by a respected private tour planner in Cairo, contacting a few others who had used this man's services and a series of e-mails with him, on January 20 we sent an initial deposit. Days later, January 25, Cairo erupted with the beginning of the Egyptian revolution. At that point we had the option of rescinding our deposit; it was a bank transfer that could have been reversed. Rightly or wrongly, we decided against doing this. As we don't need to provide the rest of the money, which is the bulk of the cost, until right before going, we decided to risk losing the amount we had wired. Our flights are with miles so they can be redeposited (with a small fee, of course.) At this point, we are on our way.

We fly to Cairo where we will spend 3 nights, visiting the Pyramids which are not out in the sands and desert as we tend to believe but are easily viewed from hotel windows right in Cairo. We will recoup from the long air jaunt, visit the famous Khan el-Khalili souk, take a short excursion to the Step Pyramid which predates the big pyramids and of course visit THE pyramids.

The next two weeks we will go to and see:

Abu Simbel

Aswan and take a Felucca sail on the Nile

Board the Moon Goddess for the cruise up the Nile where we will see:

At the end of the cruise, we will arrive in Luxor where we will spend two nights and where we will spend Christmas. It will be interesting to see if the hotel recognizes Christmas in any way. Since it is a Sheraton, it may.

From Luxor we will fly back to Cairo and from there fly to Amman, Jordan and drive to Petra. From Petra we will return to Amman via the King's Highway, stopping at Mt. Nebo where Moses looked into the Promised Land, Kerak and Madaba.

And...that is it except for an excruciating trip home involving two long layovers--a down part of travel by award miles. I keep calling United to see about an improved routing--as I can clearly see on their site that there are many options with lots of seats open. But...the answer continues to be "nothing available." I am hoping that a few days before we leave, more seats will open up--7 hours in Frankfurt and 5 hours in Denver is ugly!

Perhaps I will post some pictures and write a little while we travel, but if not, there will be time to catch up once we are home. You can either travel with us in real time or in retrospect. Either way will be just fine.

And...this looks to be a Christmas vacation that Casey will remember--unless Egypt erupts and we stay home. I hope not.

Be Sure Your.....

2011-10-03T16:21:00.000-07:00

sins will find you out---or, mom is not all that clueless.

Teenagers, I think all of them, sincerely believe that mom and dad are inherently clueless, permanently equipped with blinders and mentally impaired by old age--regardless if those parents are 30 or 70. The corollary to this is that these teenagers, with the wisdom of their advanced years, believe they are smarter, more clever and totally immune from discovery. Have we not all been there?

The inescapable lesson is that ultimately all things come to light--later if not sooner. Sometimes the truth emerges long after the event has been relegated to forgotten status. When it does burst into the light, either the time of consequence has run its course or delayed justice will triumph. Oh, yes, teeners have so many lessons to learn before becoming the men and women they will grow into (oh yes sorry Winston...the men and women into which they will grow.)

Such a moment hit home the other night when, for some reason unknown, I needed my iPhone which should have been nested in its own little pocket in my purse. But...it wasn't there. Now if you have an iPhone or iPad, you know there is this handy convenience Apple has created called "Find my iPhone." By going to your account on the computer and running this program, the location of your phone or iPad shows right up on a map--where ever it is. I was concerned that I had left it at Sammy's Woodfire Pizzza where we had gone for dinner--pretending it was Italian fare.

However--a big however--the map showed that the phone was right at my very own address--somewhere. And, brilliantly, along with the locating feature of Find My iPhone, comes the convenience of allowing a push of a button to activate a two minute beep, giving time to locate the wandering device. Two minutes was really much longer than needed as it clearly was coming from child's bedroom.

Imagine his shock since it was now 11 o'clock and he was asleep (maybe) when suddenly loud beeps begin emanating from under his covers. This then continued the series of events that now has him on total restriction for the month of October, except for church activities---yeah, no halloween.

By now I am in his room as he dramatically wakes up, wonders what that noise is (it is quite different from a phone ring) and then wonders how in the world the phone was in his room.

He just doesn't know where it is.

Oh, wait--maybe it is in his pant's pocket in his closet. Sure that must be it as he climbs out of bed, strangely holding the side of his pj's as he limps to the closet.

Now, as I am the proverbial "wasn't born yesterday mother," I figure his strangely placed hand and limp mean something but I was certainly not going to strip search a 13 year old... so called for Ken. Then--in a terrible stroke of bad luck, by the time Father got there, the phone slipped its way out of the pj's onto my feet. Oh my, oh my! Goose is totally cooked--as if it hadn't been from the beginning. Sometimes it is hard to keep that straight face and not begin the giggles.

As we have been having a series of "you do not take the nintendo, the MP3 player, the DVD player, the computer and certainly not my iPad to bed with you discussions, this was the final moment and the boom needed to fall harder. So--for the month of October, no devices, games are off the computer (yes, I did that to his computer), no friends over and no yesses to evites define his life. He keeps his karate lessons, his Italian lessons, his serve the community day and his church activities (even the fun ones). Plus I have let him know that this is the month where he learns what "hit the books" really means.

With this great life learning moment, I am confident, with total certainty, that he will never see his parents as clueless again--at least whenever he knows that Apple has my back.

Pear Chutney Bruschetta

2011-09-24T14:46:00.000-07:00

Once in a while, I post a recipe--if it is one that I truly think is good enough to share, is fairly easy to complete and has been a success with more than just me. Last night I had a dinner party for 15 and so I was looking for something in the antipasti selection that would be a little different from most. I did have olives, cheeses, crackers and artichoke spreads but those are all so over used these days. So...hunt for something special to add. This month's cooking light came to the rescue---love, love Cooking Light.

Pear Chutney with Pecans and Blue Cheese

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/4 cup finely chopped shallots

1 1/2 cups finely chopped peeled Anjou, Bartlett or Bosc Pears (I used Bartlett)

1/2 cup pear nector
1/4 cup finely chopped dried apricots
2 Tbs. sugar
1 1/2 Tbs. cider vinegar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 (3 inch) cinnamon stick
4 ounces French bread baguette, cut diagonally into 16 thin slices and toast
8 tsp chopped pecans, toasted
8 tsp crumbled plue cheese
1 Tbs chopped fresh chives
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme

Heat a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add olive oil, swirl to coat. Add shallots and saute for 2 minutes or until soft. Add pear and next 6 ingredients (through cinnamon); bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium; cook 20 minutes or until pear is tender and mixture is thick (I had to cook longer.) Cool to room temperature. Discard cinnamon stick.
Spoon about 1 1/2 Tbs chutney over each baguette slice; top with 1/2 tsp pecans and 1/2 tsp cheese. Sprinkle with chives and thyme.

Notes: I made the chutney 3 days ahead of time and refrigerated it; then took it from the refrigerator a couple hours before using so it would not be too cold. It was perfect. I did not pay attention to the amounts of stuff to put on each slice--just did what looked good. Also, just cut the bread as seems OK--rather than counting out 16 slices--waste of your time. I doubled this recipe which seemed perfect for 15 people along with the other appetizers. I also mades a few with just the chutney in the event that not all guests would like the toppings.

These made a very attractive tray and the guests loved them!

I must say--this photo makes it look quite huge--they really aren't--just the right size to handle and eat.

Reflections in Pictures--Finale

2011-09-10T12:11:00.000-07:00

Reminiscing--what a gift the digital camera has been to the bitter-sweet joy of looking backward! Childhood memories, which are so soon lost, burst alive again in vivid, full screen pictures. It is as if the camera has been set to time exposure as children grow before our eyes.

Casey doesn't remember Ecuador until I bring out the picture books and suddenly he recalls minute details. God, in his unfathomable creativity, has given our minds filing cabinets where all is catalogued and stored to be reclaimed at some point in life's journey. Thank you, God.

So... the last three short slideshows of summer 2011. These pictures are our memories thus a little short on famous places and "must sees". They are family landmarks, so to speak which, if the internet lasts, Casey can show his children (and grandchildren) someday. (Previous Three)

(Heads up: There is music so you may want to turn down sound.)

Greve-in-Chianti--Our Italian Home Town

Cortona--Love it Here

Assisi--Last Stop 2011

Our memories of 2011--of course, each slide, for us, triggers so much more. Hope you can feel them, too.

Link to: Reflections--Part 1

Music from Romantic Moments by André Rieu

Reflections in Pictures

2011-08-27T13:55:00.000-07:00

...sitting here thinking about Italy this summer and pondering how vacation times fade into forgotten memories so quickly as the "now" takes over. Thank goodness for the magic of photography which captures memories for times of reflection and appreciation of what was.

So, forthwith here are some of this year's memories:

(these have music attached so you may want to turn down sound.)

Montepulciano--Good Friends--Bellissimo

Verona--Not Casey's Favorite Experience

Venice--A Place of Fantasy and Intrigue

Next up: Cortona, Greve and Assisi. Stay tuned..

Music from Romantic Moments by André Rieu

Someone said.....

2011-08-03T22:28:00.001-07:00

..if life gives you lemons, make lemonade (or something like that.) Traveling offers many life experiences and this year Casey has learned to make lemonade. Hopefully it is a lesson which will hold him in good stead throughout life.

If you have followed us for a few years, you know of the extraordinary relationship Casey has had with Camilla beginning when we lived at her family's farmhouse in 2006-2007. These two children were soulmates who bonded in a deep and meaningful way. They said they were more than friends, more than brother and sister, not "girlfriend/boyfriend." If you have read Casey's or my blogs over the years, you know.

It was with trepidation and curiousity that we returned to Italy this year after a two year absence. Now that they were older, what would the relationship be? Casey had become a teen-ager; Camilla not there yet but almost. How would their friendship reform itself?

The first day, after an initial awkwardness, it seemed as if all was well and, as usual, they had picked up where they had left off. But..somehow, by the second day, things were not good. Camilla pulled away and, inexplicatedly, rejected any interaction with Casey. Our boy was totally confused, devastated and profoundly hurt. We, he and her parents have no understanding of why or what. It was bizarrely strange. For several days, Casey would wake up with his usual optimism believing that things would be different. But, as days progressed, even he recognized that was not to be.

So, time for lemonade making...time to refocus and find new pleasures which were readily available. He just had to look and move on.

At Viticcio where we lived and were staying there was a family from Belgium who had been there several times when we were there. They had two girls whom Casey had now known for 5 years. So, it was easy to have fun with them, swimming, walking into the village, playing games, etc. Ken and I were happy to hear Casey laughing and happy. He still would wonder what had happened with his old friend but he was able to move out of his initial despondency.

Then we went to Cortona where he had a wonderful time with Matteo, the son of a friend of mine in that lovely, haunting hill town. He wrote all about it on his blog.Matteo and Me. Ken and I were so pleased to see some of the hurt dissipate as he had such a fun time with Matteo and his friends. He had no time to spare for thoughts of a little girl several villages away.

When we returned to Viticcio, it was time to have the birthday party we had planned to have when his very good friend Tomasso came home from camp. So, with Tomasso and the friends from Belgium who were still there we had quite a celebration. The absence of Camilla, who was in Cannes at a ballet school, was hardly felt.

The rest of the week Tommy and Casey were together constantly--either Tommy was with us and staying the night or Casey was at Tommy's. They went to the late showing of the Harry Potter movie (in Italian, of course), wandered around Greve connecting with other friends, just did what boys do together. No girls necessary.

We ended up leaving Viticcio a week early as Tommy was leaving and so there wasn't much reason to hang around being sad. We had already arranged to go to friend Rebecca's agriturismo Brigolante outside of Assisi for three nights and then were fortunate enough to be able to extend that for a whole week. So we waved goodbye to our friends Alessandro and Nicoletta and moved on.

At Brigolante, Casey had fun again with Rebecca's boys who are quite a bit younger than Casey but boys seem to be able to adjust to age--that plus the little house in the woods, the ATV, the open hills and the farm were enough for Casey to love the week there. Casey and Brigolante.

So, although we had expected a twist to the story of Casey and Camilla this year, we could never have anticipated the curve it took. I don't know if time will reverse this year--if it was just a blip in this fairy tale story of young children. It is very mysterious and strange.

Casey feels a loss of some magnitude. He is puzzled. I encourage him to feel the loss so that he doesn't react by hardening against hurt. Since ways of response can be formed so early in life, children need guidance as to how to handle disappointments. I tell him to remember the years of fun the two of them had as they can't be taken away. And we all hope that next time we return, the unique and special friendship will reestablish.

And this year the lemonade turned out pretty sweet after all.

Tommy and Casey

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Cortona--Fun Times

2011-07-18T03:41:00.001-07:00

When we were beginning the arduous planning for our year in Italy, Cortona was one of the places we considered. We had visited the town twice on previous trips and liked it; plus, I had a friend from SlowTravel who not only lived there but had a son Casey's age which was important to us. Ale, my friend, even scouted out a of couple apartments for us. But...we ended up in Greve instead.

Now, five years later, we finally got our boys together and within minutes of meeting a true friendship formed. Ale and I ended up saying "they're like the same person in two bodies" because their interests and likes seem/are so much alike. Matteo is older than Casey by just two weeks. What a friendship they would have had if we had lived there. Now Cortona will be a prescribed stop on future pilgrimages to Italy.

Matteo for Casey...

and Ale for me.

Alessandra (Ale) is a warm, fun, energetic, engaging woman. Also ...opinionated, out-spoken and multi-faceted. In other words, my kind of person. I would have thoroughly enjoyed her friendship if we had chosen Cortona as our home that year. Maybe we should think of doing an encore.

Ale has just been included in a list of the 100 best cooking schools in Italy --sorry, but I forget which magazine. Considering that there are hundreds of cooking schools in Italy, this is quite an honor. She is good. I spoke with a couple who had taken one of her lessons and they totally raved about her. In their journal they have included The section "things we have learned from Alessandra." I suggested they start a blog and list these so others could benefit.

Alessandra also has a shop in Cortona, Girasole which features jewelry and artifacts fashioned after that in the Etruscan Museum in the palazzo across the street from her shop. Her jewelry is featured in the National Geographic catalogue--pretty impressive.

Her shop also has beautiful linens which are reproductions of that of the renaissance, terracotta articles and items reflective of Tuscsany. It's difficult to peruse her shop and leave empty handed--I can't. Several years ago I bought Etruscan jewelry. This time it was unique Tuscan motif jewelry..and, sale and pepe grinders with bronze tops which will make great conversation pieces at dinner and good menories for us.

All of Alessandra's wares are made in Italy and come from within 200 kms of Cortona. She personally knows and has selected each artisan and manufacturer featured in Girasole. Quality is the trademark.

We had two fun filled dinners and evenings with Ale, Marino and the kids, Matteo and Francesca, who is 9 and, I believe, developed a crush on teenager Casey.

The first night, after dinner, we joined the music and dancing in the piazza. Well, we just listened and watched as mostly college age kids did the dancing part. We were content with our gelato and friends.

YouTube Video

The next night we had a truly one-of-kind unique Tuscan/Italian experience--the American Saloon with an authentic western decor and an equally authentic, traditional Tuscan menu.

Franco, the owner, is enamored of all things cowboy and must surely have been one in a previous life. He also raises owls. Quite a character.

Dinner was fun with a mixture of English and Italian--well, mostly Italian. We were joined by Donatella and Roberto, friends of Ale and Marino.

A fun night.

One more thing to mention. The lovely B&B where we stayed..wonderfully situated on the main street in Cortona Casa Chilenne. Breakfast includes home made pastries, eggs as you like, waffles, meats...just about anything you would want Everything about the place is top quality from fluffy towels to decor to beds to all. It even has chair lifts to all 4 floors for people who would need that service. Amazing place and delightful owners. We will return next time unless we get an apartment for a week or so.

So, you have the highlights of our time in Cortona. There was more but this is long enough. Thank you Ale, friend, for having so much time for us. a presto!

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Ryan Air--An Experience

2011-07-13T10:19:00.001-07:00

Last week my friend Rita and I went on a three day jaunt to Dublin. I had never been there or any other place in Ireland so among other things this was a new stamp in my passport. But....Dublin did not impress me all that much so hope to get to other parts some day. I talked with two women who had just completed a two week small tour in a 4-wheel drive which sounds very appealing--will check it out when home.

This post, however, is about the the riot of flying Ryan Air, a brand new experience and one which provided some serious amusements. I now believe that it is entirely possible that the rumor of charging to use the bathrooms may well blossom into reality.

Riding (much more appropriate than calling it flying) with Ryan Air is somewhat a cross between the carnival barker section of the county fair and crowding into the local ballpark with venders pushing all kinds of wares.

But first is the packing and preparations--one carry on of 10 kgs. At this point for those of us from the US, the internet comes in handy to find out just what that equates to in pounds--22--and, the one carry on is for real. No additional purse, computer, briefcase etc. All must fit into the one suitcase.

Leaving from Italy wasn't a problem as the Italian people weren't all that concerned (surprise). All kinds of second pieces were carried on. But...returning from Dublin was an altogether different matter. People were busy trying to cram in all kinds of things before being allowed down the stairs. Then, after packing away the no-no items, they carried down armfuls of displaced clothing which was OK and took up much more bin space. Go figure! My sin was a little cross body bag for my passport and a few euro.

Moving on..
All the bins are covered with advertisements, much like the subway walls.

Rita did see a pair of shoes she thought cute but they wern't sold on-board, which as I write more will surprise you.

The plane is a model of efficiency. There are no seat pockets in front of you which eliminates the need to clean between flights. Seats do not recline, which is something many people would applaud. This way more seats can be installed. The seat in front of you is used as a billboard telling what to do in the event of an emergency. I actually think this is a good idea...chalk one up for Mr. Ryan or whomever.

Within minutes of taking off, the show begins. With a second loudspeaker reminder that smoking is not allowed, whereby rebringing it to the attention of the nicotine club, there is an announcement that for those with a craving the flight attendants will be selling packages of smokeless cigarettes--which one attendent holds up and waves. Rita and I noticed that there must not be a thriving market for these as the attendent, after walking the length of the plane, returned with the same number of boxes in hand.

Next came the food cart with delectable goodies to tempt those with strong stomachs and parents of children who have the "I wants." The people across from us bought €42 worth of Chef Ryan goodies. I neglected to get a picture this time. Sorry.

Following the food cart, came the trash cart; again so that no clean up crew would be needed.

When all that cleared out, came the announcement for Ryanair scratch off lottery tickets--fanned and waved as the attendent sashyed down the aisle. Not sure how many of these were sold or if the pay-out would be immediate.

Somehow in the midst of all this, the ruddy faced, elderly Irish man next to me managed to sleep, after his can of stout. Rita, unsuccessfully, tried to sleep but the loudspeaker wasn't over--ever.

Now was time for another run through with the beverage and trash carts which almost collided with the irrestible merchandise cart. Not sure what all was on it but a lot. I suspect there was a list in the booklet passed out but, truthfully, I neglected to look as I was busy taking pictures.

I think there was another food trolley passby before the magazine pick up and final trash service.

Minutes before landing people are still in the aisle waiting for the toilet. Finally, the man next to me wakes up and I notice he is crossing his fingers as we begin descent. As he flies Ryan frequently, I found this a little alarming.

If Ryanair flight lands on time, there is one final, adorable, flourish. Bugles blare followed by the recording "another on-time flight with Ryan."

The efficiency of the efficiences were very noticeable on our return flight. As we walked down the stairs to board, the arriving passengers were disembarking. Them off--us on. No clean up crew needed. Amazing process!

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Venice--Not a One Night Stand

2011-07-04T13:39:00.001-07:00

I love Venice--have since our first time there, which I think was 1999--or perhaps--a past life. So, it is hard when I hear people maligning it; they have missed the magic--the voices of whispered intrigue, the private but not-so-secret liasons of romance, the captains of sea trade and war, quiet whishes of gondola oars-on the way to an extravagant ball, the majesty and unfathomableness of a small republic built on wood pilings who for a while dominated Europe. What an amazing story this lady has to tell.

So, Venice can not be a day-trip or a one night stand. A traveler needs quiet times in La Serenissima. Minutes/hours spent in small campos and calles. It is the land of Vivaldi--music must be heard in the heart if not at the opera house. Time should be spent studying the magificent Tintorettos in the Scuola di San Rocco.

Visiting Venice is more completely a visit to eras and centuries gone by than any other place I know--unless visiting the dead places where life long ago abandoned them.

This time we were there with Casey, going on 13.

Last time we were there with Casey, going on 6.

We had a good time both times. I did miss the wide eyes and wonder of the little boy whose eyes were so fresh and to whom the world was so new, but, walking with a son who is taller than I and who puts an arm around my shoulder, telling me he loves me is a magic of its own.

This time we rented a very lovely apartment Ca Leonessa on a small side canal. The building was old but the apartment was 21st century--with Wii for Casey and wifi for me. Everything about it was top quality from the Le Creuset Cookware to wonderful beds--and, it was quiet at night. Out our window was the famous vegetable boat of Venice which probably has been photographed as many times as San Marco.

We were perfectly situated for getting almost every where.

We ate well, of course. The food of Venice is outstanding; although it is best to avoid the tourist hotspots or the places with pictures of food displayed on the walkway--usually a pretty reliable sign to move on. I was chagrined to overhear a woman on the train from Verona to Venice authoritatively telling a day-tripping family--"a word of warning, Venice is not known for its food." How I wanted to turn around and contradict.

For those foodies reading this, our very best meal and it was outstanding was at
Antiche Carampane. I had the little soft-shelled fried crabs which are a delicacy of Venice. Worth going there just for that meal.

There is much more to write about and maybe I'll do so domani or..maybe not. It may be that lazing at the pool, or driving to Panzano, or..or..or appeals more.

For the time being here are some pictures. These are for the most part random and quite incomplete. Loading from the iPad to flickr tonight was incredibly, super, aggrevatingly frustrating... this is the result.

Some, not many Venice pictures.

Ciao for now.

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Verona and the Opera

2011-06-30T06:36:00.000-07:00

Well, if you are on Facebook, you know now that Verona was a bust. Romeo and Juliet is a Shakesperean fantasy and Casey hated the opera! Why else go to Verona? Well, there was good food and Piazza Bra fascinated the twelve year old. Why would you name a piazza after women's underwear?

In a delusional state, I had thought that Aida, performed in the ancient Roman amphitheater, with all of its spectacular aspects--live animals, tomb deaths, armies, dancing, sphinx and other accouterments of Egypt (where we will be in December) would be enough to offset the arias but, it just didn't work out that way. Now I wonder why I thought it would.

To begin with, the opera did not begin until 9:15 when Casey was already ready for pillow time. Then, with intermissions, it was not to be over until 1:00 am.

Some time during Act 3, Casey informed me that "this is the most boring thing I have ever done." So, hearing the plantiff notes in his voice, when the lights next went up, Ken took Casey back to the hotel and I stayed on. So much for that cultural experience. Suggestions on what to try next?

R and J is a full-time business in Verona, though. Everyone crowds into the little viale where Juliet's "Romeo, Romeo...." balcony projects. For some reason beyond my understanding, people jostle their way forward to get a picture cupping a hand on the breast of Juliet's statue.

And....right there is the Romeo and Juliet shop where you can get red or white or pink or any combination thereof Juliet and Romeo embroidered pillows, towels, etc. with which to decorate your home, back home. (We bought several in contrasting color motifs.)

There was one momentous event to be shared about Verona...Casey finally became a true Italian male. Can you see in this picture why this is

We did enjoy wandering the streets and the fortress and had two very good meals there--at Osteria da Ugo and at Risotanti Greppia.

Coming up....Mystical, magical Venice

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The Kids of Sant' Antonio

2011-06-24T06:31:00.001-07:00

Casey started coming to Sant' Antonio in 2003 Italy 2003 when he was not yet 5 years old. Sofia was not yet 4 and Filippo had just been born. He returned in 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 and now in 2011. As with Greve-in-Chianti, Sant' Antonio, outside of Montepulciano, resides in his soul. And Sofia and Filippo are and will always be friends of his childhood.

Today it was fun to watch them together in our apartment as they flipped through our pictures of Kenya. All three of them were on safari in Kenya within the last year and so it was fun for them to share memories and return through pictures--love the iPad!

YouTube Video

Of course, Caio needed to be a part of the action--more or less.

Today will be their last day together until next time but.....Nico is now hinting about bringing the famly to San Diego in January. That would be so cool! Scratch will love Caio.

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A Drive--A Lunch--A Garden--A Dinner

2011-06-23T02:29:00.001-07:00

Well, the title pretty much sums up our day--lazy, lovely, delightful.

We have never driven over to Abbadia San Salvatore or the base of Mount Amiata--even though this is the first year of the second decade of our coming here to Sant'Antonio. So today seemed like a nice day to do just that--

It is an easy drive and the road up Mount Amiata is beautifully serene with tall trees and shrines hidden away in the shadows. There was a particularly lovely one I wish I had captured so I could share it here. But wishes don't bring much.

In A Culinary Traveller in Tuscany we had read of a promising restaurant, Ristoranti Anna, down the road from Abbadia San Salvatore in Piancastagnaio .. so we went in search of it. We did find it and were rewarded with an excellent lunch after working our way through the spoken menu. I had wonderful spinach/ricotta ravioli smoothered in arugala, little tomatoes and shaved cheese--yum!

On our way back, we went on Casey's favorite field trip--the gardens of La Foce. Most people who come here make this a must see on their first visit but it has taken us 11 years. We had been to La Foce but not the gardens which are only open on Wednesday afternoons. The history of this villa and its gardens goes back centuries but the most fascinating for us is the war years. In spite of what I said, this was not a favorite Casey experience. but, he did handle it with grace.

The day ended with the Sant' Antonio Wednesday night dinner which is a very fun evening. The food is good and it is a chance to spend time with the other guests from around the world. Tonight it was British Columbia, China, England, Australia and the United States.

While the big people drink wine and converse, the kids play outside on the grass. it's a good time for all.

Now it is bedtime. Buona notte!

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Sunday--June 19, 2011--Sant'Antonio

2011-06-20T05:56:00.001-07:00

On the way to dinner...

Nico, Filippo, Sofia and Casey.
Casey and the children have known each other since he first came here in 2003.

Last night was a fun, fun evening. Nico and his children, lovely Sofia and adorable Filippo, joined us for dinner at A Gambe di Gatto on the Corso. Elena, our friend--Nico's wife--the childrens' mama--is ill and so wasn't able to come. We missed her a lot.

I can say this is our new favorite restaurant in Montepulciano. It is small with only 7 tables. Manuale started us with tasting 10 different wines after which we selected the wine we wanted with dinner. Later he brought 7 oils to the table for us to choose one for our salad. At the end of the night, he presented the children with bags of gourmet cookies.

Filippo, Sofia, twin cousins from Rome, and Casey. It is such fun to watch Casey morph into an "Italian ragazzo." No one watching or listening would think that he is an American boy.

More Sant'Antonio...

The horse stable in days of yore...now the venue for famous Wednesday night banquets.

Sant'Antonio is magical...just ask anyone who has been here.

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Close to Heaven

2011-06-18T09:56:00.001-07:00

It seems that is where we are now--in the welcoming embrace of Sant' Antonio with its stones that once echoed the chants of monks in a 13th century monastary, olive trees with glistening, shimmering leaves moving in the breeze of the hilltop, laughter seeping from below as people discard cares left behind, blue, blue skies meeting the green gold fields. Yes, this has been the treasured escape of ours for many years. Last year we traded it for the expanses of the Mara and plaines of Kenya. And so it is good now to be back.

We have been here just four hours but have truly never left--it seems. Our friend Nico's smile is as wide and welcoming as always--his hugs true.

Casey has looked forward to seeing Sofia and Filippo but they are not here yet. They're in town with Aunt Paola and until all the guests have checked in, Nico can't go get them. So, Casey has found the next best thing....dogs. He loves dogs---well, animals of all kinds, actually. Caio, the dog of Sant Antonio is an old friend. Ula, is the huge, loveable, beautiful family member of a German couple in the apartment below ours. To Casey, they are his brothers.

So, we are here, the long road to travel is always worth what it takes. Sant' Antonio, Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italia....Home

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We're Here--More or Less

2011-06-17T03:20:00.000-07:00

Actually, it is less....less one person. Casey and I arrived last night, a little late but that was OK. it was a very long flight--at least we were up for a long time. We always take morning flights but this time, because we were using miles, we could ony get a flight leaving at 2:20 pm which was delayed until 4pm. This didn't leave much connecting time in Chicago, but we made it with 15 minutes to spare. Then over the water we were on Lufthansa in business which has these quite uncomfortable slanting seat/beds--didn't sleep much. By the time we got to bed in Rome--well, actually, Fiumicino...we were up almost 30 hours. Wow...no wonder we were walking zombies.

So, back to why we are missing one person..Ken is still in D.C. He left San Diego yesterday morning, scheduled to arrive in Rome at 7:30 this morning. But, because of weather problems in D.C., his flight to Rome was cancelled. Now, he is still there and won't get out until 5 pm tonight getting here tomorrow morning--hopefully.

All hotels around the D.C. airport are fully booked so he is in the Red Carpet Club for 27 hours. He'll make our 30 hours seem like not much. Hopefully, he will get some sleep on the plane--United has lay-flat beds.

We had a reservation at a lovely BandB in the hilltop town of Casperia tonight-- we really had looked forward to a super nice beginning of our trip. Now Casey and I are enscounced at the Hilton Airport Gatden Inn, awaiting Ken's arrival. At least the hotel is air-conditioned and a nice room with free wifi.

So, domani (tomorrow, for people with less Italian than even I) we will head to our most favorite retreat, Sant Antonio, outside of Montepulciano. There we will relax, enjoy our friends, Nico and Elena, eat well and know that life is good with just a few small bumps to let us appreciate it even more. Can't think of a better place to experience the good.

Now, let's pray that Ken does get out tonight! Let the vacation begin!

My Prayer

2011-06-07T09:59:00.000-07:00

Prayer is vital to my life. I believe that it is heard and answered--whether or not to my liking. Often I tell God what I want and how he can accomplish this desire, need, want, whatever. Foolish? Yep! But, oh so human.

So, along with my regular prayers for friends' health, safe travels, the work of missionaries, children's wayward ways, solace and comfort for peoples' sorrows, my spiritual growth, and more, I have added another urgency for the time being.

Please, Lord, help Casey mature between now and the start of school in September. Please?!

Prepare him to do his homework (all of it) out of personal motivation rather than parental oversight and prodding. Teach him to be joyful in geometry, Spanish, English, California history, science--not just in gym class. Let him please his teachers--even those who are difficult to please..and, heaven knows that there are these.

Help him to understand that yes, he is only 13 and in the 8th grade but....what he does now counts and helps to determine his future. How he performs in these classes dictates where he will be placed in high school. Give him that unnatural ability to see the future in terms of his achievement, effort and depth of focus and desire.

He still wants to build with his legos, explore the creek below the park, play challenging games on his DS, improve in karate--in short, do all those things 13 year olds should do with their time. But...today's kids are being robbed of their childhoods by adults who forget their own childhoods. They are taking classes where teachers advise parents at the start of the year that it will be to the students' advantage to hire a tutor that year.Why? Because in the past, this 7th grade class, was not taught until high school.

The freedom to be Tom or Huck is long gone, but the heart of the boy that lived in them still beats in the boy of 2011. So, although my prayer is that Casey will grapple with and grow in self-motivation in his school work and accomplishments, we will see that he still has time for the boy things.

So, that is my prayer right now--a growing maturity that still allows for the joys and fun of being a kid. I believe that my God wants that, too, and will hear my prayer with a smile and a "yes."

For the record, he did achieve this year. And..we are proud of him.

2011-05-27T21:40:00.001-07:00

Test 2 for Marta...using photos directly from the iPad

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Photo trial

2011-05-27T17:36:00.001-07:00

Ignore this post. I am testing posting pictures via Blog Press for a friend.

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Self Talk--How Useful Is It?

2011-05-26T21:22:00.001-07:00

I haven't spent much time in life talking to myself. Such moments have pretty much been confined to self-recrimination when I've done something monumentally idiotic or when someone else has--like the driver in front of me. Of course, then, I am talking to him but he doesn't hear me. How could he with the mobile stuck to his ear?

Lately, though, I find myself in one way conversations much of the time. Not that I realize it right away. In fact, it may be hours before I make the discovery. It's the 12 year old in the house syndrome which I am becoming reacquainted with after a 28 year hiatus. How could I have so completely forgotten those days? Willingly, I think.

These dialogues go something like this....Casey, you need to pick up all that stuff from the floor....Yes, you can do it while you watch TV but make sure you get it done. (My mistake, I know.) Not until bedtime when I go back to that part of the house, do I discover that the only thing he heard was...you can watch TV.

Did I imagine the earlier conversation? Well, in a way, yes....it wasn't a conversation, was it?

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Giorgios Tuscan Lasagna

2011-05-25T16:21:00.000-07:00

On the food thread on Slow Travel, I mentioned that I was making "Tuscan" lasagna which prompted the question "what is Tuscan lasagna?" Having mentioned that it uses a bechamel rather than a ragu type sauce and leaves out the ricotta cheese, more questions ensued. So....it just seemed easier to post the recipe which is from Group Recipes. We like it.

Word to the wise: unless you are a large family or need it for a potluck type affair, you may want to think of halving the recipe.

GIORGIO'S TUSCAN LASAGNA

1 lb ground sausage

1 lb ground beef

1 lb ground pork

1 lg white onion-chopped

1 cup chopped carrots

4 celery stocks--chopped

4 garlic cloves-chopped or pressed

1 small can tomato paste

l cube chicken boullion

1 cube beef boullion

1 can chicken broth

½ cup red wine

olive oil

2 cups cheese--shredded parmigiano and mozarella

2 cups shredded mozzzarella

pre-cooked lasagna pasta (or regular lasagna)

cooking spray

MEAT SAUCE

saute vegetables in olive oil until soft and golden (use a pan big enough to hold the meat.)
add meats and saute until well cooked
add red wine and reduce
add tomato paste--mix well
add chicken broth and bouillon cubes
bring to a boil--if needed add water to cover
simmer at least one hour until broth has been reduced

Make BECHAMEL SAUCE while meat sauce simmers.

1.5 sticks butter

1 qt milk

flour

salt and pepper to taste

melt butter completely
add flour until all butter is absorbed (about 6 tbs.
slowly add milk
stir until smooth and silky--thickened but not too thick

CONSTRUCT LASAGNA

spray baking dish with cooking spray
layer of meat sauce
layer of bechamel sauce
layer of mixed cheeses
repeat layers
finish with layer of mozzarella and bechamel on top

Cover with foil and bake at 375° for an hour
Remove foil and brown the top layer under the broiler
Let rest for at least 10 minutes.

Yummy!

Italy on the Horizon-Yeah!

2011-05-19T15:04:00.000-07:00

Two years? Not possible! My mind, in vivid colors, conjures up familiar places, friends' faces, favorite tables at favorite trattorias, slopes of green vines, piazzas, art extraordinaire, lagoons, Giotto--so many imprints from so many visits, so much nostalgia for our Tuscan year. And now we are returning after a year's hiatus--how could we have stayed away so long? Ah, I remember, Kenya called and so lions and giraffes replaced David and Leonardo for 2010. And.....I don't regret that excursion at all--it was totally, monumentally spectacular.

But now we go home in 27 days--whose counting, anyway? Casey and I leave on June 15 via United and Lufthansa--San Diego, Chicago, Frankfurt-Rome; Ken follows the next day via United with a by far better routing--San Diego-D.C.-Rome. Why? Because Casey and I used miles for business while Ken has a revenue fare with a business upgrade. He needed the last few ff miles to reach the heady 1,000,000 mile with nice life-time perks. It would have been good to get our free tickets to match his itinerary but no such luck and since free is free we took what we could get.

Casey and I will stay at the Luana B&B near the Rome Airport waiting Ken's arrival the next day and then head on to our most favorite of all places, beautiful and serene Sant' Antonio outside of Montepulciano. This year will mark 10 years since we first arrived at Sant' Antonio and began our friendship with the owners Nico and Elena. Casey and their children have grown up together. We came there days after 9/11/2001 when the world was in mourning with the US. It was a somber time which forged lasting friendships wherever you were.

We love southern Tuscany and have explored it well over the years but..there are always places missed and those to revisit. We will do both during our week there.

Casey, Sofia and Filippo will again renew their friendship as children do while Ken and I will enjoy time with Nico and Elena. As I write, I long to be there.

From Sant' Antonio we go to Verona for just two nights. We want Casey to see the opera Aida in the Roman Arena there--well, we want to see it, too, actually. The opera season there is world famous and a truly special operatic event. We bought our tickets a long time ago. I understand that the spectacle includes elephants entering down the aisles which will surely captivate Casey if the arias don't. Aida Pictures from the 2009 Season

From Verona, train to Venice-- La Serenissima (the most serene.) We have an apartment there for 6 nights--not long enough but better than our original 3 nights. We've been there before--once just Ken and I in 1999 and then in 2003 with Casey. His memories consist of the pigeons in Piazza San Marco and the gondola ride when he oh so politely told the gondolier "these boats are called canoes in San Diego."

I am totally looking forward to these days in Venice. It is magical there--even with the early summer crowds. I love wandering lost among the calles and canals, admiring the creative vision and genius of building such magnificent structures on water, the food, the Tintoretto and Titian masterpieces, the riding the vaporetto, visiting the islands and the food, again. There is so much we have not seen there that our days will be full.

We pick up our car on leaving Venice, drive to Padua to view the exquisite Giotto frescoes in the Cappella degli Scrovegni. The next morning we will head on to our "home" in Greve-in-Chianti where we will nest for 4 weeks. We already know the first or maybe the second night will find us at Il Portico with Marcella.

Once again Casey will have his birthday there--the 4th time. He will officially become a teenager then--13! Very hard to believe that the little boy who went to 3rd grade there is now almost a grown-up. His teachers and karate instructors will be very surprised by how big he is and by the excellence of his Italian. His tutors here have done a good job with him.

I will take a 3 day vacation-in-a-vacation to Dublin with my friend Rita. Having never been to Ireland, I look forward to this brief, small sampling. Rita has been there so she will be my guru--nice.

While in Greve, the three of us will head to Umbria for 3 nights and take a cooking class from a friend of mine. I will be sure to blog about Rebecca's place where we will stay and Letizia's cooking class. I think this is going to be a blast.

So that is the outline of our plans. The details will be filled in once we arrive and I begin blogging again on a fairly regular basis. It is so much easier when doing something new and different--not like boring at home stuff.

A Presto

Stealing from Jerry

2011-05-07T10:42:00.000-07:00

I have a friend in Canada who was a teacher and now works for the teachers association. As anyone knows who has been an educator, those in his current profession are there because of a commitment to kids, teachers, education and tomorrow's future.

Jerry recently had a blog post about education in the United States that needs to be shared and circulated. I've never done this before--reposted someone else--but am compelled to this time. The letter he includes in his post is heartbreaking and true throughout our country--not just reflected in the classroom of the teacher who wrote it.

From Jerry's Thoughts, Musings, and Rants

A Teacher's Letter to President Obama

I had the pleasure of listening to Diane Ravitch speak to a large group of Ontario educators tonight. Diane is an American education historian - a former supporter of charter schools, standardization, and school choice - who has come to recognize that these movements are hurting students, harming the teaching profession, and destroying public education. Although she is of an age when many are wanting to put up their feet and relax, Diane is using her anger to travel the country telling any and all who will listen what is wrong with the pervasive education reform movement in the US.
Her stories were chilling.
One of the teachers that she wrote about was this teacher from California who wrote this letter to President Obama:

A Letter to My President - The One I Voted For

February 1, 2011

Dear President Obama:

I mean this with all respect. I’m on my knees here, and there’s a knife in my back, and the prints on it kinda match yours. I think you don’t get it.

Your Race to the Top is killing the wrong guys. You’re hitting the good guys with friendly fire. I’m teaching in a barrio in California. I had 32 kids in my class last year. I love them to tears. They’re 5th graders. That means they’re 10 years old, mostly. Six of them were 11 because they were retained. Five more were in special education, and two more should have been. I stopped using the word “parents” with my kids because so many of them don’t have them. Amanda’s mom died in October. She lives with her 30-year-old brother. (A thousand blessings on him.) Seven kids live with their “Grams,” six with their dads. A few rotate between parents. So “parents” is out as a descriptor.

Here’s the kicker: Fifty percent of my students have set foot in a jail or prison to visit a family member.

Do you and your secretary of education, Arne Duncan, understand the significance of that? I’m afraid not. It’s not bad teaching that got things to the current state of affairs. It’s pure, raw poverty. We don’t teach in failing schools. We teach in failing communities. It’s called the ZIP Code Quandary. If the kids live in a wealthy ZIP code, they have high scores; if they live in a ZIP code that’s entombed with poverty, guess how they do?

We also have massive teacher turnover at my school. Now, we have no money. We haven’t had an art or music teacher in 10 years. We have a nurse twice a week. And because of the No Child Left Behind Act, struggling public schools like mine are held to impossible standards and punished brutally when they don’t meet them. Did you know that 100 percent of our students have to be on grade level, or else we could face oversight by an outside agency? That’s like saying you have to achieve 100 percent of your policy objectives every year.

It’s not bad teaching that got things to the current state of affairs. It’s pure, raw poverty.

You lived in Indonesia, so you know what conditions are like in the rest of the world. President Obama, I swear that conditions in my school are akin to those in the third world. We had a test when I taught in the Peace Corps. We had to describe a glass filled to the middle. (We were supposed to say it was half full.) Too many of my kids don’t even have the glass!

Next, gangs. Gangs eat my kids, their parents, and the neighborhood. One of my former students stuffed an AK47 down his pants at a local bank and was shot dead by the police. Another one of my favorites has been incarcerated since he was 13. He’ll be 27 in November. I’ve been writing to him for 10 years and visiting him in the maximum-security section of Salinas Valley State Prison.

Do you get that it’s tough here? Charter schools and voucher schools aren’t the solution. They are an excuse not to fix the real issues. You promised us so much. And you want to give us merit pay? Anyway, I think we really need to talk. Oh, and can you pull the knife out while you’re standing behind me? It really hurts.

Sincerely yours,

Paul Karrer
Fifth grade teacher at Castroville Elementary School
North Monterey County, CA

There is nothing more fundamental to our society than public education. It is the greatest hope that all students have for a better future. Diane rightly recognizes that the US doesn't have failing schools, rather they have a severe poverty issue. Until steps are taken to ease that no reform on earth will 'reform schools'.

It's time to stop blaming hard working teachers for the poverty and inequality in society that holds children back from reaching their potential.

Thank you Jerry for writing this.

The Unfulfilled Traveler

2011-04-25T20:52:00.000-07:00

For years, well, since 2001, I have had a favorite travel website--as far as I am concerned it is the go to place on the net for information about traveling in Italy and many other countries. Its premise being that from fellow travelers come the best, most honest insights and advice about destinations.

Slow Travel and Slow Talk are two parts of the same animal. Slow Travel is the information partition where you find reviews, essays, road information, trip reports and a lot more stuff. Slow Talk comprises the forums which offer country specific boards, information about technology, language help and more, more, more. Travelers assist each other in planning trips, sharing information, arranging for get-togethers in far away places such as Turkey and Africa as well as well-trod (trodden?) Europe. It is a community of mostly like-minded souls--people who love to travel and who want to experience cultures a little more deeply than tour groups usually allow.

We are people who take the unexpected in stride--well, actually, thrive on the serendipity and feel that we have been blessed when those moments come. Getting lost offers opportunity, the hidden trattoria unpromoted by Rick Steves is the goal, coaxing a smile from the brusque shop keeper is a conquering moment, experiencing a cultural difference is a time of learning, making new friends promises more to come, accepting kindness from strangers reminds of brotherhood, knowing that what seems an idiosyncrasy to us is mundane for our hosts, realizing that maybe we were "taken" a little and then laughing it off becomes an achievement, sloughing off inconvenience becomes an accomplishment --these are the mindsets of those who relish travel, the new, the broadening of horizons; who know that the world is a big place and no country holds the monopoly for setting standards and defining correct and incorrect ways.

I am saddened when I read of someone who has dreams for a trip but does not prepare for what it will be--when one wants the comforts as defined by the lifestyle at home--whatever that might be, who seems to find a satisfaction in complaining and comparing. Inconvenience is a fact of travel but should not be what composes our memories.

When only looking through the prism of the known, the joys and serendipities and excitement and experiences and wonder of the unknown are excluded. Travel loses its purpose, becoming a disappointment--barren and disillusioning. Focus is spent on the inconsequential irritants that ruin the beauty that surrounds and presents itself.

Before embarking on a journey to somewhere-anywhere, it is so important to spend time researching the country, the culture, the details--determine what it is you want to see and do. What calls out to you--what are your interests? Read reviews, check out travel books, read the fine print, look at pictures, read a little history--in other words, learn something about your destination. Absorb what other people have reported and said. Pick up some clues and hints as to what to expect.

Travel is something we make happen--other people do not make it for us. I think to often people expect............

And this is why Slow Travel and Slow Talk have met the needs of so many people. We are a community of people who support, help, encourage and educate each other-- a community for both the new and experienced traveler--anyone who wants to learn, give, share and take. We are not experts just sharers of experiences and the love of travel.

Catch-Up Time

2011-04-10T20:51:00.000-07:00

Yeah--it's been a time since I last wrote--maybe the longest between posts since starting this blog in 2005, before blog mania hit. It started simply as a means to journal the process of preparing to relocate to Italy for a year. Since I hate to write with pen and paper--if I can't read my handwriting, who can?--it made sense to word process. And then it occurred to me that if I did it on the web and, if the web is around for a few centuries, perhaps future family might be interested in ancestors. Plus, I do like to write when there is something to say or something that can be manipulated into being said. It was so easy at first and then, when living in Italy, writing was downright compelling.

Since those days, there have been obvious times to post either because life is interesting or I had some thoughts I wanted to share or I just wanted to write. However, dry times do hit-- life becomes rather routine and mundane or there is an absence of scintillating thought or, and most often, I am just not "into" writing.

Now a month has skittered by and I note from the handy stat counter that there are still a few faithful who drop by now and then--maybe they are future ancestors--think? So, to keep a few followers so that I don't feel totally deserted--earned, yes, nice, no--I think I will update the last month. I do have a post in mind about slow travel vs. fast travel but that is for another day.

So--without further ado--here are the highlights from the last month:

1. Parted with my most favorite of cars--a little 1998 Saturn Coupe--manual shift, which I loved. It had only 52,000 miles so was in good shape. I bought it when I was working and used it as a run around town vehicle. It was "my" car with little reason for passengers. But....now, with an almost teener, I am back in the taxi business and Casey at 5'7" and his friend at 5'9" the handwriting is on the wall--the car wouldn't work for them. I became aware of this one day as I watched them try to pretzel themselves into the back seat. So now, I am the proud owner of a 2011 VW Jetta--I gave up the manual and now, truth be told, am enjoying an automatic which I swore would not happen. And....since I am not a youngster anymore, admit that I find that getting in and out is a lot easier. The strange thing with the Jetta is that it changes color from silver to gold depending on the light.

OLD NEW

2. Spent many hours planning trips---not a bad way to spend time. We're headed to our second home for 6 weeks this summer--Italy. Guess that's worth a blog post to give the details, including the opera Aida in the Roman Arena in Verona--elephants in the aisles and lots of pomp. Hopefully Casey will love it!

Then, call it risk taking or crazy--take your pick--we're off to Egypt and Jordan in December. That definitely deserves a post--if only to assure you that we are not totally out of our minds. Just sounds like a good thing to do over Christmas when Casey has two week off of school.

3. Oversaw Casey's life--an eventful and full-time occupation. Smart he may be, and he surely is, but motivated and self-propelled, he surely is not. Basically he is a 12 year old who wants to be 12 but schools expect so much from kids these days and there are so many other pressures that they have to be 16 four years early. He is taking advanced algebra. I didn't take regular algebra until 9th grade when I was 14.

4. Last week was spring break which was well timed. We needed a break and so we took off for Monterey. Ken and I have spoken for years about taking Casey there to the magnificent Monterey Bay Aquarium which is world famous for its work with endangered species. Having been to many aquariums I have to say that this ones rises above the others. It is quite beautiful, appealing to old and young. Casey who loves animals of all kinds loved it. I had remembered the jelly fish exhibit as being quite special but this time it was the sea horse exhibit that stole the show. Spectacular!

And then we had time to just walk the beaches, watch otters playing in the waves, feel pity for the people with red, red backs as they basked in the sun, climb rocks--just enjoy nature and beauty.

Ken and I were married in Carmel and so one day took Casey there to see the Church of the Wayfarer where we spoke those fatal words--I do. What a change in life such little words can bring! That evening we had dinner at Cantinetta Lucawith good friends from Slow Travel. It was a fun evening and Casey enjoyed playing table football with Wendy--made the evening all worth it for him.

On the way home we spent the night in Santa Barbara and visited the mission there--another cultural/history experience for Casey. Then....the big moment of the week...he spotted a Tilly's store. So we stopped in and made his day with two pair of skinny jeans.

Now we're home. School starts tomorrow and...we're one week closer to Italy. Can't wait!

Al Jazeera--Is Clinton Right?

2011-03-14T13:44:00.000-07:00

Well, to begin, the title of this made me laugh as I typed it. Clinton--Right? Never!

Anyway..several days ago, speaking before the Senate Foreign Relations Committee, Clinton said something to the effect that Al Jazeera is gaining more prominence in the U.S. because it offers "real news" -- something she said American media were falling far short of doing. Source Of course, this predictably provided fodder for crazy man, proof of what she said, Glen Beck, who bizarrely seems to feel that what he presents is "real news".

Does Clinton have a point and is it legitimate? I think so per the following 3 points.

1. We were in Italy days after the horrific events of 9/11. We have never regretted being there during those days as we became aware of something most Americans never knew. The world was in mourning with us, the support was unprecedented, countries came together and united around the terror of the unbelievable in NYC. We know this because of the broadcasts that were streaming in from China, all of western Europe, Japan, the rest of Asia and old eastern block countries such as Romania and Hungary. There were midnight candle vigils in these countries; store windows were draped in red, white and blue; police stood at attention outside stations where there were podiums holding huge books on pedestals. People of many nationalities wrote their condolences in a variety of languages. Everywhere we went, empathy and sympathy were shared. Of course there was also much coverage direct from the United States so we were able to see that too.

We were amazed when we returned home to discover that few people here had any idea of how the world stood with us. It was as if our country were isolated in its grief--not understanding that the world was grieving, too...that there was a shared understanding of a profound change that had taken place in world history and events. I understand the raging emotions and stunned paralysis that covered our land but the media should have been more honest and more inclusive. The nation needed this if for no other reason than it was so affirming and uplifting at a very dark time. It was also needed to underscore that we are a community of nations. The people of the United States were robbed of something important. The only source that could have provided this was the media.

2. An American friend of mine who lives in Italy said in a FB comment Al Jazeera is hands down the best news channel in the world, in my opinion....I am on vacation here in the US right now and appalled at what is called news "here." There we have access to British, French, Italian, German, Dutch, Arab, and American news. Here? Oh, don't get me started. What she says is true. When we are in Europe--frequently--we become much more aware of the world and what is happening in it. Often we are even more informed about what is happening in the United States as it is being reported as in-depth news not 3 minute blips between commercials and trivia about Charlie Sheen's goddesses, Sarah Palin's latest mouthing and American Idol.

3. I began watching Al Jehezzera on my iPad recently when I discovered that it provides fairly straight forward brief narrative reporting to introduce video of what is happening wherever. I do still primarily watch MSNBC, CNN, ABC, CBS, NBC but am becoming more disillusioned. So much of the airwaves are taken up with pundits sharing purported wisdom with each other, outrage at other on-air personalities, opinions replacing hard news, reporting on wayward celebrities, politicians and other high profile misfits and the occasional fluff piece and human interest story (I like the latter.) The loss is news about the world in general. We get stories about Berlusconi and his Ruby and other scintillating news but we get little hard news. Of course, major events such as current uprisings in the Middle East and Africa and the numbing earthquake in Japan are heavily covered with video and reporting, particularly at the beginning when there is the horror of the visual. But, comprehensive coverage of the world just doesn't happen. It used to be that CNN more-or-less served this purpose but no longer.

I encourage checking out the link to Al-Jazeera above to get a feel for what I am saying. Go through each of the continents and world areas in the menu bar to see what is there. Check the "watch live" option to see some of the coverage. It is different from ours.

Again for the record, I repeat that my major source is US media but sometimes I do check out the BBC, CNN International and Al-Jazeera along with other options to complete my understanding of what is happening. I find that I am more informed and cognizant of the world outside our borders.

Easy Again--Spaghetti with Fresh Tomato Sauce (Shrimp?)

2011-03-06T19:26:00.000-08:00

Some people write blog entries all the time--it seems easy. I find it easy only when something special occurs to me--such as when traveling, reminiscing or a Casey thought erupts. So.....sometimes recipes fit the bill of keeping the blog breathing. Plus, I like easy fixings but want it to be tasty. So..here's one I have made several times and it definitely is in the easy category. We like it.

SPAGHETTI WITH FRESH TOMATO SALSA
Use only fresh, red, tasty tomatoes!!! I use smaller ones from Costco in non-tomato season--they are almost always good. You want good flavor.

4 large ripe tomatoes (or equivalent of 4) The more the better. Don't skimp on these.
1 garlic clove finely chopped
4 tablespoons chopped fresh, herbs such as basil, marjoram, oregano, or parsley (any combo)
2/3 cups EVO
1 lb dried spaghetti
salt and ground pepper
shrimp (optional--my addition)

1. Skin the tomatoes by placing them in hot water for 1 minute. Transfer to cold water. Peel skins.
Place on paper towels. Cut tomatoes in half and squeeze out seeds. Chop into bite size pieces.
2. Put EVO, herbs, garlic, tomatoes, spices in a bowl. cover and set aside to absorb flavors for maybe 30 minutes.
3. Cook spaghetti in salted water. 2-3 minutes before pasta is cooked, throw in as many shrimp as you want.
4. Drain pasta (and shrimp) and mix with sauce. Toss and cover for 2-3 minutes to mix tastes. Toss again and serve.

Enjoy--we do. (forgot picture, of course.)

Modified from The Complete Book of Pasta edited by Jeni Wright Hermes House

Missing Italy

2011-02-08T21:04:00.000-08:00

Just decided it was time to write something and had no idea what until the fingers, with their own volition, inserted a title. And...I realize that it is right. I do miss Italy right now. It has been over a year since being there with another 4½ months ahead of us--too long.

Lately, I have been corresponding with a woman who is planning her family's own "year in Italy", triggering memories and nostalgia for me. It seems as if it were just yesterday that we were going through the trials of dealing with the infamous Italian embassy, getting our FBI clearance, translating documents, finding a place to live--and most importantly, determining what was best for Casey's schooling. Many of you followed those early days with us. Can you believe that it was 6 years ago when we began the journey and 4½ years since we arrived at our home in Greve in Chianti? It seems so just yesterday.

Casey was 8 years old--in retrospect such a little boy. I didn't realize then how small he was and the expectation we were putting on him.

What was it like entering a classroom where everyone jabbered and he understood not a word? Sitting there 8 hours a day, wondering what was happening around him. It is amazing that there were only two or three nights when he went to bed with tears--encouraging us to stay but letting him go "home." My heart still hurts for him when I think of those times. But....I knew that if we, he, could get through the beginning, the end would be good.

And, it was. Before long, he held his own with the new language, laughed with the other children, enjoyed going to school, and even earned good grades. Children came over to play; birthday party invitations arrived; karate sessions were anticipated; the piazza was his. The rhythm of life was established and life was good. Saturday at the cinema was an event; the gelateria ladies smiled and knew him. He even enjoyed the museums of Florence.

When the day came to leave, the pain was greater than those early nights of crying. His soul hurt as he said goodbye to the best friend he has ever known.

It was hard for Ken and I, too, as we took in the beautiful, quintessential Tuscan hills and landscapes that had been ours for a year. Leaving was painful.

We have been back for several weeks each year except for this last summer. We went to Kenya instead. I don't regret that, how could I? Lions in trees, trumpeting elephants, zebras and giraffes and wildebeests and cheetahs? You just don't see these in Tuscany. But, underneath that, we did miss our Tuscan home.

Home at the Top of the Stairs

Casey is no longer a little boy. He is taller than me now--by a smidge.

Mr. GQ

When we are in Tuscany next summer, he will become a teenager--his 3rd birthday there. With all our travels, he has had more birthdays in Italy than here in San Diego.

I wonder what it will be like when he and his friend meet after a two year absence. Will their bonding unite them again immediately or will it take a while. Casey doesn't think so. They say they are closer than brother and sister, girlfriend/boyfriend.

So, what do I miss? Long, leisurely drives discovering secret roads, hidden chapels, roadside shrines. Quiet lunches at out of the way places; shopping at the COOP; favorite restaurants, Bruno's hugs; the bus to Firenze; friends; the piazza; Sara; Signora Franca; the gelateria; so much, too much.

The thing is though--it will all be there waiting. Things don't change too fast in the Chianti. Panzano will be up the hill; the drive to Figline will be the same curves and small hamlets; my friend will be home in Chiocchio. All will be well.

I can't wait!

A Different View of Greve in Chianti

To My Boy

2011-01-24T19:23:00.000-08:00

He is growing up and so it is time to write and tell him what he means to me and my hopes for him. Someday, decades from now, if the internet is around and if blogs from 2011 are retrievable, I would like him to read this and remember and perhaps show his kids and maybe grandkids what we were.

Casey, child, you are special--there is a reason that all who meet you feel it. There is an elusive something that emanates from you, calling attention to a life that has purpose and meaning beyond self. I often wonder what that will be and if I will see it in my lifetime. I would like that.

Your smile charms one and all. Your sharing of hugs, kisses and hand-holding as you approach teen age years opens a window into the man who will love and treasure the woman he chooses as a life mate. Never lose this guilelessness of freely sharing self with those you love. Pass it on to your children and grandchildren--of whom I hope there are many.

God gave you a great mind--curious, creative, insightful. Don't waste this on triviality. Find meaning in what you do; don't settle for a paycheck or place your values on what wealth brings. God has a reason and purpose for you. Listen and learn what that is. It may be directly serving him or it may be in the marketplace or realms of science or in areas of which we have not yet dreamed. Whatever it is, give it your all and find satisfaction in fulfilling your destiny.

From the time you were little, I have told you about the great gift God gave us when he tied that blue bow, asking us to love, cherish and nurture the little boy. Many times I have thanked Him for the honor he gave us and the challenge he provided for the years we had thought would have a different direction. And..what a challenge it is sometimes to corral the energy, stubbornness, self-will that defines you. There are times I ask why he didn't give us a malleable, quiet, easy boy or why he chose us. The answer, of course, is that the whole package is important to the plan he has for you. We are the human partners needed to do his work. And...of course...he knew we would love you beyond reason.

When you were in kindergarten and again in second grade, you noticed little boys who were shy and hesitant to join the group; you reached out and made friends with each of these boys. We watched as each grew in confidence and self-understanding of personal value and acceptance. I pray that this childhood trait dwells in you and that you will always see the needy person and respond with humble compassion.

Prayer has been an important part of your years. I remember the second grade Sunday school teacher who told us that you were "a real prayer warrior." What a thrill that was to hear of in our boy, so young. For many years, every day before your leaving for school, we have prayed together, asking that He lead you and guide you that day. We know that he has heard as you have leaped some difficult hurdles along the way. I pray that you always pray.

For a child so young, you have traveled to far away places--Europe, Africa, South America and, of course, many of the states. Soon you will experience Egypt and Jordan--places you have wanted to go. I am certain that this is by God's design. He has powerful reasons for building within you an awareness and appreciation of cultures so different from yours. My prayer is that you will discover these reasons and follow their paths--that you will go where God leads you in life.

Now you are in middle school--the years that I believe are crucial growing up years. Wending your way through these years is fraught with the danger and temptations to make bad decisions. These are the years before you have an identity, before you have dealt with who you are, before you truly believe that you have a future. You live in the now--almost completely. The nebulous concept of future escapes the 12 year old mind. Truthfully, it puzzles me why God makes such vulnerable years so difficult, but he does. My hope lies in the truths you have been raised by and in your own developing faith in God's son.

I believe in you, Casey, and anticipate the coming years, watching as you mature and find your way and the identity that is not yet yours. Your "you" will be built on who you are now, your decisions in the coming years, the friends you make and your continuing growth in developing and understanding your faith.

I am so proud of you now and that pride will continue for all the years we have. After that.....I am convinced that God provides windows to see those that we love the most and that we can continue to cheer them on toward great and meaningful endeavors that not only enrich themselves but those they meet and minister to. I will follow you all of your years.

Love, Gramma-mom

Spiced Pork Tenderloin with....

2011-01-13T15:09:00.000-08:00

Yes, you're right...I'm still filling time until I have something substantive (or at least fun) to write. Of course, I could spend some time on the verbosity of Sarah but why bother? The encouraging angle is that the more she says, the more she loses.

So--I have been intending for a while to share a hit recipe at our house--hit meaning that within these four walls all three of us like something. Who says there aren't miracles? I have this one marked: "v v good" which translates to very, very wonderful.

Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Sautéed Apples

Cooking Light-October 2010

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

1 pound pork tenderloin, trimmed and cut crosswise into12 pieces

Cooking spray

2 tablespoons butter

2 cups thinly sliced unpeeled Braeburn or Gala apples

1/3 thinly sliced shallots

1/8 teaspoon salt

¼ cup apple cider (last time I used sparkling cider)

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

I actually remembered to take a picture.

1. Heat a large cast-iron skillet (I don't have cast iron so just use a regular skillet.) Combine first 5 ingredients; sprinkle spice mixture over pork. Coat pan with cooking spray. Add pork to pan; cook 3 minutes each side or until desired doneness. Remove pork from pan; keep warm.

2. Melt butter in pan. Add apple slices, shallots, salt and sauté for 4 minutes or until apple starts to brown. Add apple cider to pan and cook for 2 minutes or until apple is crisp-tender. Stir in thyme leaves. Serve apple mixture with the pork.

Yield: 4 servings (serving size: 3 pork medallions and about 1/2 cup apple mixture.) calories: 234

The great thing about this recipe is that the meat is tender and moist- and that it is totally delicious. Oh--it is fast and easy, too.

To Break the Silence

2011-01-10T11:27:00.000-08:00

OK--haven't posted for a while but do want to stay alive--for those of you who check in once in a while. I am working on a post "to" Casey but that'll come sometime in the future--it's a rather difficult one. Hopefully, there will be a few between then and now.

Anyway--a friend posted this on FB today and I liked it--kind of fun. So, to break the silence...

Bet you watch it more than once--maybe.

A Christmas Gift...A Christmas Memory

2010-12-17T19:32:00.000-08:00

Do you have poignant memories of Christmas past? Ones that seem to appear unbidden when a wisp of song floats in the air or a blurry picture shimmers momentarily.

My mother died in 2004 but in reality she left us several years before that. We watched as she slid into the state of dementia where the mind slips away. So, it was a time of rejoicing when she went to face her Jesus.

One of my favorite Christmas memories features mom. Every year I would ask her what she would like Santa to bring. And every year, for as long as my adult mind can remember, her answer was "Nothing. I don't want anything."

So, one year, perhaps the last when her mind was still there, I decided she would get her wish.

I beautifully wrapped several boxes--each nested into the preceding one. There was much colorful tissue paper and many beautiful bows. And then, finally, when she reached the last box which would hold the treasure I had found that year, under layered red and green tissue was a lovely printed note that said: Dear Mom, this year I have for you that which you have always wanted.....Nothing. I love you.

Unfortunately, I did not have the fun of watching the opening ceremony as Mom was with my brother and his family in Northern California. Fortunately, I had alerted my sister-in-law that everyone should watch as the beautiful package bloomed. The report back was that the room posed transfixed while the boxes appeared from within each other and, then, Mom burst into uncontrolled laughter, followed by everyone else as it was passed around.

The Opening

I treasure the gift of laughter I was able to give Mom and the memory now treasured by everyone who became part of it.

Mom at 90

My brother, mom and me

Her 90th Birthday Celebration

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

And God Reigns Eternal

2010-12-10T09:04:00.000-08:00

Busy, busy, busy relegates blog to end of list but......this is far better than any words I might share anyway. Enjoy. I tear up each time I listen.

(You can see it better if you double click on the video and watch straight from You Tube.)

Birthday Morning

2010-11-16T12:38:00.000-08:00

Well, I became ?1 on Sunday--really quite a lot older than I thought--a shame, really.

The day started out with a birthday cake, of sorts, which I will share with you due to its uniqueness. Can you figure it out? It was doubling as breakfast--I suppose.

Yep--frozen waffles, strawberry ones, alight with candles. Actually, these are the second batch of candles as it seems the first batch suffered the sad fate of melting into the hot waffles which then became quite waxy--as I've been told. Did I love this cake? You betcha (in the words of our newest Shakespearean pundit.) How much more fun is this than frosting with garish red and blue roses scattered about? A lot! Creative? Oh yes! From the mind of a 12 year old? Of course.

After this sumptuous feast (which I didn't eat), Ken and I dropped Casey off at church and went on our way to a lovely overnight at a wonderful spa/resort in the Temecula wine country. Of course, on the way, we stopped at a couple other wineries to sample their wares and enjoy the absolutely beautiful day God had given us.

Thornton Winery--Great Tapas and Wine

One of the nice bonuses of lovely wineries are the shops where you find unusual gifts for hard-to-buy for friends--such as my Italian family. Now I can't wait until Christmas to find out if they like what we found. We do--in fact, we bought a couple things for ourselves, too (surprised?)

Eventually we wended our way to the South Coast Winery and Spa Resort. Son Jeff had given us a generous gift certificate for Christmas last year so we figured it was time to enjoy it. The property is very beautiful and the villas quite luxurious, with private patios, great beds, set among the vines. Nice! Of course, I needed to sample the spa by having a relaxing massage and then we rested until dinner--a hard day.

Before leaving the next morning, we had a tour of their winery which included a very nice wine tasting session, pairing 8 different wines with fruits and cheese. I had never understood how various wines do so well with blue cheese, pepper cheese, swiss, more, grapes and strawberries. This was a nice ending to a nice celebration. Then it was time for the leisurely drive back to San Diego--ready to hug our 12 year old and help with his homework. Life does goes on.

Thank you Jeff for the gift and the child-care. I love you!

Beer Cupcakes?

2010-11-13T14:48:00.000-08:00

In Italy we have a favorite small local enoteca, Enoteca Fuoripiazza, where we go when at the last minute I decide that cooking just isn't in the cards that night. The food is simple but always fresh. Luca and his crew take good care of us. It is low key, relaxing and comfortable. Oops, almost forgot to mention that their wine selection is totally outstanding. We love it there; in fact, can't wait to pop in and see the smiles next summer--and hugs.

So it was a real sense of homecoming when we discovered our own little enoteca not far from us here in San Diego. It's in a very small, neighborhood shopping center--well, center is sort of an overstatement as there is just a specialty grocery store and a handful of other small shops--beauty parlor, cleaners, etc. For years there was a wine shop with a deli counter which we infrequently entered.

Now they have transformed into a great little bistro/enoteca with both inside and patio dining areas. The menu is simple but good, the staff fun and the atmosphere lively. This is combined with their shop which has an incredibly fantastic wine selection--including several of the wines from the vineyard where we lived in Italy. They have also expanded to offer great craft beers from local breweries.

The name of this place is--drumroll-- KNB Wine Cellars--Grapes, Hops, Fine Food

So this is now our go-to-place when we don't want fancy, but do want good food and a pleasant, kick back time--when I don't want to cook. Well...if we did this every time I didn't want to cook, we would be there much more often.

Last night we were there and had a chance to talk with Kat, the wine buyer. We mentioned the Viticcio Chianti Classico Riserva which she doesn't stock--but now will. This will make a pretty complete selection of wines from our Italian home which makes us very happy.

Anyway, back to the title of this entry--beer cupcakes. We've eaten here several times now but have always passed on the cupcakes as beer is not my thing and it just didn't sound appealing. Last night, though, we were talked into trying them for dessert with the promise they didn't taste like beer. And, guess what--they are deliciously good and tasty-not at all beery.

I really liked the Stoned Portzilla!! Yummy good. As usual, I forgot to take a picture of these--even though my camera was on the table. Next time!

So, when you come to visit--we'll take you to our new favorite in the hood.

An Interesting Question From a Friend

2010-11-05T15:50:00.000-07:00

Not too long ago, I was in New York City enjoying time with friends--and it was a good time, indeed. Need more of these escapes--good for the soul.

Anyway, before I left home, I prayed that God would open up an opportunity for me to talk about my faith. Two important parts of me are that I am a "born again" Christian and a strong, opinionated democrat. For many people, that is a contradiction. This is really sad as I am not such an anomaly, there are many, many of us; however, the "liberal" element, which ironically I in many ways am a part of, has chosen to paint all evangelical Christians with the same broad brush. Additionally they narrowly define what a "born again" believer believes-abortion, gay rights, sanctity of marriage--as if there are not hundreds of other issues of importance and which create opinions and commitments and which differentiate people.

On the flip side of this is the Christian-right which believes, if not so stating at least by implication, that one can not be a true Christian and be a democrat. I can not count the number of times I have been with friends or in church groups where there have been negative references to Obama, Obamacare and other democratic foci in which I believe. Of course, this is not a new phenomenon, it has always been. These same people were anti-Clinton (before the scandal), anti-Carter, who has been the most outspoken evangelical ever in the White House, and all other non-right wing republicans. My usual MO is to remind people that there are some present who feel differently--partially to keep myself from getting angry and partially to cause people to reflect a little.

To be truly fair here, it is important to clarify that I have believing friends who fall in the same political spectrum as I and I have many friends who tolerate my wayward ways. We have other things to focus on and share--common beliefs in Jesus as the Messiah and biblical truths. And, then, there are some whom I just avoid--which is also true of some rabid democrats who pop up from time to time.

So back to the beginning, the last night in NYC my friend, who is Jewish, said to me: Jane, I have been wanting to ask this, I hope it's OK. (of course.) I know you are a born again Christian and I know that you are a strong democrat (or some such words) why are you so different from the right-wing Christians I know and work with?

This opened the door to explaining how and why I am, who I am, despite growing up in a very republican conservative home. I believe the words of Jesus and writers of the Old Testament, too, who command us to care for the needy, the poor, the children, the widows in our midst. I believed in the words of the Sunday School song I sang at 4 years of age Jesus loves the little children of the world--red and yellow, black and white--all are precious in his sight, which is why I was active in the civil rights movement of the 60's and 70's. I believe in the equality of all people which is why we adopted both white and black babies while living in radically conservative Orange County.

I am formed by these simple understandings which to me are the bedrock of the democratic goals and philosophies. I do not see this in the republican party which, to me, does not acknowledge the government's responsibility to address needs; while many of my Christian friends (not all) will most certainly strenuously disavow what I say, I don't see compassion, sense of Christ-like brotherhood and accountability. Yes, there are huge amounts of money given to missions and the poorer peoples of poor nations, there are meals and rides for members of a congregation, there are church efforts (limited by their nature) for local concerns but where is the large scale commitment or sense of responsibility to the people of our nation--the United States of America, those without adequate health care, the homeless of San Diego, the mentally ill of California? I see a party whose goal is to have lower taxes which by default means inadequate government services--not taking care of the needy, the widow, the children, the hungry, the ill, the poor--those that Jesus singled out and loved.

Beyond my experience, I look and cringe at the behaviors of some who profess Christian faith and who are most media prominent. The lack of civility in discourse, the "no" mentality rather than the "let's see what we can do" mentality. Gross name calling and insults for the sake of insults. The USA Today two weeks ago had an opinion article about this which expresses my feeble thoughts much more succinctly and coherently--In God Fearing USA, Where is the Decency? This is what scares me about what is happening in our country.

It scares me that we have people in leadership roles stating that their focus for the next two years will be on destroying the presidency rather than working together to solve problems of great magnitude. It scares me that republicans want to dismantle the rather incomplete health plan that finally passed last spring. That the focus of those who are coming to Washington from the Republican party and its sidekick the Tea Party is to gut social security, medicare, the health plan, the efforts for economic recovery, educational goals, several foundational amendments is beyond scary. That many people idolize a woman who promotes hate and insurrection and yet wants to become the leader of the free world boggles my mind.

So I am a person who believes in the saving grace of Jesus Christ, who believes in heaven and hell, who believes that without accepting Christ there is no heaven, who believes that the Bible is the Holy Word of God Almighty from Genesis through Revelation. As I told my friend, I believe that our Jesus is her Messiah. I believe that there will be end times. I do not believe in hate, fear mongering, hierarchical sin.

I am also a person who believes that the democratic party, despite all its inefficiencies and deficiencies, its at times misdirected ways, and its human failures, most pursues the spirit and commands of Jesus. I do not believe that they do so out of the same spiritual beliefs and foundations or commitment to Jesus that drive me but I do believe that they want some of the same things. I do not see this in the republican party; I do see it in some of my republican friends.

So, my friend, this is how I can be and why I am both. I think that my party affiliated friends understand this better than many of my spiritually affiliated friends. This makes me sad.

Afterthought:
This is the link to a recent NPR program which I wish more people would hear. It speaks to the fallacy of our health care system and the wrongful fear so many people have regarding a national health care plan--Changing Health Care The link to the audio is at the top of the article. This is long so you may want to start at minute 5. TR Reid, who has traveled the world investigating health care in the large democracies, shares his learnings. His most telling statement is that the other countries have health care for all citizens because they believe it is the moral thing to do. He says we are not to that place yet. Sadly, he seems to be correct.

The Healing of America by T. R. Reid

Penne with Shrimp and Spicy Tomato

2010-11-04T14:09:00.000-07:00

While I am mulling over my next intended blog piece which will be controversial, I think, I decided to post this recipe as we like it a lot and it is super easy. If you are like me, "easy" is a magnet and when combined with really good, you have a winner. This is truly a one and only one pot pasta meal.

Penne with Shrimp and Spicy Tomato Sauce

¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1½ teaspoons paprika
1½ teaspoon ground cumin (I used less)
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
¾ cup canned crushed tomatoes in puree (I used diced and smashed them)
1/3 cup cilantro or parsley chopped
¾ lb penne rigate
1 lb medium shelled shrimp

In a bowl whisk together everything but pasta and shrimp and cilantro.
Cook penne until almost done. Add shrimp and cook about a minute longer or until shrimp is done (don't over cook)
Drain and toss with the sauce (which is not heated.) Sprinkle in cilantro

Yummy good and very pretty but.....I forgot to take a picture yesterday--as always. This one is by Thorsten on Recipezaar.

The recipe suggests variations:

Use mozzarella in place of shrimp. Toss cheese in at the end.
Use grille sausage cut into bite size and toss with sauce.
Use grilled or sautéed vegetables in place of shrimp.

I've prepared this several times now and we are always happy, happy with it.

From: Recipezaar

A NYC Sunday With Friends

2010-10-30T22:13:00.000-07:00

In Torino (or Turin) there is the ultimate foodie store--Eataly. Ken and I made a pilgrimage there in 2009 and spent time wandering the various sections with every type of gourmet food you might want plus at least 2000 types and brands of pasta. The bottom or basement floor is wines and beer--of course, all Italian. Amazingly enough, we left empty handed. Sometimes there is so much to buy that it is simpler to just look--I often feel that way in department stores here.

Anyway, the opening of a NYC branch of Eataly a few months ago gave the perfect reason for a gathering of friends. So when Sunday arrived the catalyst for the the long trip from California also arrived--the day to see what Eataly, USofA style had to offer.

But, because the other focus of these few days (and why it was possible to spend 4 days walking and still gain 2 pounds) was eating, we started the day with breakfast at the Blue Dog, a casual, neighborhood, friendly eatery with good wholesome food offerings--and, filling.

The gang at breakfast: Carol, Sheri, Kim Chris (left) Ken, Jan, Jane, Terry (right)

From the Grey Dog we walked to Eataly but first detoured to the charming, fun Chelsea Market, another food haven inside what was the old National Biscuit (think oreo, etc.) factory. If I lived anywhere neat NY, I think this would be a frequent visiting place for me. Many of the same specialty shops we saw in Greenwich had branches here plus there is a great market with many products found in ordinary grocery stores in Italy. We needed more time there but were due to meet the rest of us in Madison Park across from our proclaimed destination.

Eataly was OK but disappointing when compared with Turin--much smaller, fewer specialties, ONLY 4 flavors of gelato, merchandise pretty crowded together resulting in not much traffic flow space. There is a large selection of olive oil from the various regions of Italy--that is the section I would most frequent. I was disappointed because they did not have Casey's favorite grocery store cookies--Ringos. Bummed!

But, don't get me wrong, we did have a good time. After rambling through, we finally settled in at the bar and enjoyed a glass of very good wine--thanks, Chris and Kim. I enjoyed having the time to just sit and talk with Kim. When you are with a large number of people, it is hard to fine one-on-one time with anyone.

Leslie, Terry, Sheri

Fuzzy picture of Kim and Chris

Although I think the thought was that we would eat lunch here, because most of us had just completed an awesome breakfast at The Grey Dog, we just weren't hungry--forgetting that we had joined up with people who were probably very hungry. I do wish they had spoken up as I am quite certain I could have been coerced into eating at the fish restaurant overseen by the same chef as Esca where I had that great meal on Friday lunch. I did feel bad later when they mentioned that they had expected to eat.

I am proud to say that when we were through, we bravely tackled the subway and proved that if you keep trying, you can win. Got on at the right place, got off at the right place--all of us at the same time. Done good!

Back at the hotel we all congregated in our room and had a good time talking about I can't remember what--just girl talk--sort of like the much younger dorm-living days. It was fun and relaxing. Carol and Sheri soon left for a quick early dinner before catching their bus back to Philly. Leslie left to fly home to Georgia. And, Rosie, Vicky and I were ready for another night in NYC.

The three of us had a quick dinner at a Mexican restaurant next to the hotel and then Vicky and I headed to the theater while Rosie planned on exploring Rockefeller Center.

Vicky and I had previously purchased our tickets to see Fela at the Eugene O'Neil Theater which was just a few blocks "down and over" from our hotel--an easy walk. Both Vicky and I enjoyed this rather unusual show--not one that would appeal to everyone; it is not the typical Broadway musical; it is not a happy romance; it is not one that lifts you or that when you leave you feel rejuvenated and up beat.

In the order of some other 20th-21st century plays and musicals, Fela is a political tour de force portraying events in Nigeria during the late 20th century as much of Africa erupted and unscrupulous men became unspeakable evil dictators. Fela Anikulapo Kuti was an entertainer who became an opposition voice and as such was persecuted and destroyed. Eventually he died of complications from AIDS.

The music and dancing were awesome, frenetic, intriguing, loud and fascinating. I had no idea bodies could move like that for so long. Vicky says the dancers will pay a physical price in later years; I think she is totally right.

For Vicky and me the choice of show was a good one. I am glad we went.

And this was the end.....I had my hotel room to myself the last night--I liked the aloneness time. The next morning it was the shuttle to LaGuardia and the long flight back to California. Casey and Ken met me with smiles and hugs.

I so enjoyed the smile on the face of an observing man as Casey ran and hugged and snuggled and was happy to see gramma/mom. It was as if we had given a moment of pleasure to a stranger.

It was good to be home.

Readings Before Tuesday

2010-10-29T08:12:00.000-07:00

Yes--I know, there is still Day 3 in NYC to do but....these writings in the NY Times opinion section are worth reading before voting--particularly by independents who are still deciding and by moderate republicans who are frightened by the tea party peoples.

Divided We Fail by Paul Krugman

The last line is where I am.

Can't Keep a Bad Idea Down by Thomas Friedman

In this one, be sure to read the last 5 paragraphs listing the US's world standing on key factors impacting a country's relevancy.

Walking Greenwich & So Much More

2010-10-27T17:08:00.000-07:00

Saturday morning broke sunny and warm--nice for October in NYC--making me glad that my winter parka was still in the back closet at home, thanks to wise advise from friend Vicky. We people from SoCal do not acclimate well to cold--which is anything below 60º. I even opted to leave my light leather coat from Florence in the hotel closet.

Sheri, Carol, Leslie and I found the subway, which I kept calling the metro, causing constant correction, which makes no sense to me as the card clearly says metro.

See---ladies---MetroCard

We correctly got on the train that was going to where we needed to be for the short jaunt to where we were to meet our guide for the Greenwich Village Food and Culture Walking Tour. At this point we were without Vicky and Rosie who still needed to get to the hotel, register and, hopefully, get the subway/metro to where we were before the tour started. I was worried about this.

Sephra--Great Guide

At the meet-up point, we met Sephra who was a pure delight. I really think she was a poorly paid comedic actor who was supplementing the pantry as a guide. She was cute, funny, knowledgeable, personable, friendly and pregnant. By the time the other members of the tour arrived, we knew the tour was going to be a fun 3 hours.


Sheri, Leslie, Carol and Me

Finally it was time to start walking but Vicky and Rosie were still on the subway/metro somewhere. Fortunately, our first food stop--Joe's Pizza--was almost on top of the exit stairs so just as Sephra began extolling the virtues of the "slice of pie" we were about to enjoy, our two women popped up and joined us--perfect timing.

Rosie, Carol, Leslie, Me, Sheri, Vicky

The next three+ hours we walked the village, stopping every 5 minutes or so for a bite to eat at a vast variety of establishments. By the end of the time, we had consumed a whole meal--no need for lunch. Sephra shared stories and legends of the village. We learned where Lady Gaga got her start as a waitress (failed); the location of the origin of off-Broadway theater; where Tom Cruise was dining that night (unless Sephra was joshing); where speakeasies plied their trade and lots more. Next time I'm in NYC, I think I'll do another one of their tours; hopefully Sephra represents the quality of all the guides. She was a joy.

About now we were tired and full so decided to return to the hotel, kick back and prepare for what we knew was going to be an excellent Italian dinner. Things got a little complicated trying to figure out which subway line to take back and where to get off; finally after a 6 way discussion, we were pretty sure we knew. And we did--except we got off a stop too early and so extended our walk for several blocks and another meander through Times Square. OK--I thought, more exercise, more lost pounds--more on that later.

After mastering the subway/metro, we decided that we should use it again to get to dinner. How hard could it be? We just had to transfer trains at one point--not hard to do in Europe or England--but, there they have signage and boards that make sense, even when in another language. Whereas NY requires psychic powers or the wisdom to seek directions from someone in the know--which we discovered is not someone trying to read a subway map. Eventually we did get the connecting train, after searching for and finding the two block tunnel we needed to traverse to the other tracks.

So the six of us were on board a very crowded car, relieved when we studied the route map and knew we were headed the right way. When we arrived at our station, Sheri, Leslie, Rosie, Vicky and I pushed our way out the door, following the lead of real New Yorkers, relieved to be free. But.....as the train pulled out, we saw Carol, mouth agape, staring at us from the other side of the window, on the way to the next stop. Now what to do?

We five headed on to the restaurant, skittish by now so stopped 3 times in 2 blocks to get directions, hoping that Carol would find her way. After a harrowing experience at the next stop, which was virtually deserted, she arrived by taxi, a little disheveled and flustered, but nothing that a glass of wine or two couldn't repair.

Now onto Pepolino--yes! What a great meal we had--so Italian! It was almost like being in Italy except a little more crowded and noisy than restaurants there. There was such an aura of authenticity with the totally Italian staff, wines and food. And the food-----was delicious. I started with a fig and ricotta bruschetta antipasto followed by a whole, grilled branzino, which is often my choice in Italy. It was delish! Everyone raved about their meal--even Leslie after she sent her first primi back for being too salty.

I know that there are 100's of good restaurants in NY, but, if and when I go again, it will be difficult not to return to Pepolino. We have nothing this good in San Diego--or at least as far as we have found.

After dinner, prudently, we took taxis back to the hotel--no more subways this day.

And so ended day two of our adventure. It was well worth the long travel from California. Tomorrow--breakfast with more friends, Eataly and the theater.

Flying On A Jet Plane

2010-10-25T12:15:00.001-07:00

This is what I am doing right now.....sitting in comfort--well, sort of--in first class from LaGuardia to Lindberg (that's NYC to SD.) This is called a "through" flight which means little since we change plans in Chicago and have a two hour layover....but...the flight number stays the same. There is so much that I just don't understand about airline mentality.

Anyway, this gives me time to write a blog entry so that it won't be hanging over my head when I get home to Casey and Ken. So much, I am sure, to catch up on there. Did they get the halloween costume? Homework finished? Book read? Was everything peaceful and serene? I'll be happy if all is well and I don't need to "fix it." We shall see.

NYC was fun...a lot. All the meeting-ups happened with perfection. The hotel in some mysterious, psychic fashion knew we all belonged with one another and had our rooms together in a cute, separate, hidden wing of the hotel. As they had no clue about our connection, the serendipity of this is intriguing.

We all were very pleased with the charmingly named The Hotel @ Times Square, recommended to us by our friend Kathy Woods, who worried that we would not like it. So...Kaydee, you are in the clear.

Actually, the hotel is not on Times Square but a few easy blocks away which is good, for who would want to really be staying where half the world's humanity roams day and night? We did form one with the masses a few times when we walked through on the way to elsewhere. I haven't been there for years but can't say that it was any new or different from years past.

Friday lunch friend Leslie, from Georgia, and I "dined" at Batali's pesce (fish) restaurant Esca which was excellent!! With a bottle of excellent white wine from Le Marche, selected for us by the wine guy, accompanying my so good grilled bluefish with little dried tomato garnishes, I was happy. Oh, I did start with soft, creamy, fresh, flown in yesterday from Southerrn Italy, bufala mozzarella garnished with tiny leaves of argula. I wonder if Batali will migrate to San Diego?

By the time we meandered our way back to The Hotel @Times Square, Sheri and Carol were there so I traded Leslie in for them and we explored our way to Rockefeller Center and environs. Thought I would buy a cute little halloween candy at the Chocolatier for Casey but at $20 a lollipop, he is being deprived.

New Friend Carol, Sheri and Leslie

Sheri and Me

Dinner Friday was at the Spice Market which was good but not as spectacular as I had anticipated. On the way there, Carol, Sheri and I had a hard time flagging a taxi. One finally stopped and said he was off duty but would kindly take us there for $30; we said no. But, we were tired of hustling a ride and the time of our reservation was approaching, so we settled on $25 which would include a tip. The taxi back was $8.10

After dinner Sheryl from NYC took us on a stroll along the new New York park The Highline which runs above the street along tracks that used to run between factories. We had a good time with Sheryl who gave us many good insider tips

This is one of the five courses at the Greek Market. Very tasty!

Almost time for my next flight..I'm in Chicago. This is a good stopping point as it is the end of day one

I can upload here so will do installment two once home.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Off to the Big Apple

2010-10-19T21:22:00.000-07:00

I am excited! Sometimes it is just good to be with women friends--no men allowed. Can't say that I have ever really done this before except for conferences or a day trip or...the time I traveled Italy by myself for 10 days. Need to do that again one of these days. I found that although I missed Ken and home, I really enjoyed the adventure and freedom of accountability to no one except me. Moving from place to place and meeting up with friends was quite liberating.

So Thursday morning I take off for 5 days in NYC with several friends coming from various places--Georgia, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Maryland, Florida and then me all the way from SoCal. It will be fun. Several of us are staying at the same hotel--which we hope is bedbug free. (Note: need to remember to keep luggage off the floor.) When I called to ask what they had done about bedbugs, it was as if I were from another planet--bed bugs? We don't have bed bugs. Sure hope not.

Our plans revolve a lot around food. In fact the impetus of the trip is to visit Eataly, the US mecca of the famous food emporium in Torina, Italy. You may think you have been to a foodie haven somewhere but all else pales against Eataly--particularly if you are an Italy0phile. In fact, this is sort of appeasing myself for having missed a trip to the real place in 2010, the first year I've missed Italy since 2000. I am homesick.

Opening Day at Eataly New York

Our homage to food includes:

Friday lunch: Esca--Mario Batali's Southern Italian Seafood Trattoria.
Friday Dinner: Spice Marke t--Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Asian inspired cuisine. I've eaten at several of his restaurants over the years and they are wonderful regardless of the focus. Can't wait.
Saturday Noon: A walking tour of Greenwich Village, stopping at several eateries for tastings.
Saturday Dinner: Italian meal, of course. Pepolino. Reviews are excellent and it sounds like it will be fun and not stuffy. A time to enjoy and laugh with friends.
Sunday: Breakfast at the Grey Dog, a walk through Chelsea Market and then off to Eataly where we will wander, roam and, of course, have lunch. My big question is: What will the quality of the gelato be?

And... that is the end of the food orgy, I think. Sunday night most people head home but a couple of us are staying for a night at the theater. We are going to Fela which promises to be a rip-roaring, loud, fun evening of music and dance encompassing a moving story. Can't wait.

Going to NYC and not shopping seems a travesty but, that will be another time. This is a time for fun, laughter, sharing and caring. I promise to post pictures worthy of culinary envy.

Teachers Make a Difference

2010-10-09T20:06:00.000-07:00

I've been in a writing slump. Happens sometimes. Not sure if it's because life suddenly becomes boring or because I miss the interesting stuff that surely happens all around me each day. Common sense tells me there are thousands of things to light a thought which in turn can trigger a muse. So...I think that I've just allowed a spell of lethargy to take over. Va bene (ok)...we need vacuums sometimes to give overworked brains a rest.

Now, I do want to share what I have been focused on this week. It is not a new thought nor earth shattering or unique to me. At the same time, it is not one that everyone shares. I hope to set that straight right now.

Mrs. Henetz 4th Grade

Teachers are important and they do make a difference in lives which means, ultimately, in changing the world. And...I am convinced that the vast majority of these changes and contributions are positive and good. Most teachers are good at what they do. I know this from the perspective of having been a recipient of the wisdom of teachers and from having been a teacher, an observer and evaluator of teachers and, most importantly, a parent, past and present.

This past week I had reason to reflect on the teachers Casey has had in the last 7 years and realize that out of those 21 dedicated people, only 2 have been duds. This translates into two teachers who not only did not motivate him but instead squelched his enthusiasm for learning, damaged his self-confidence and negatively impacted his performance.

His second grade teacher was such a one--for some reason she insisted that this very bright boy was "slow." Fortunately, we were able to compensate for her by what we did at home. I have often wondered, though, what happens to children in the clutches of someone like she but who do not have compensating home environments. We lose kids this way--sometimes very early in their young lives.

Mrs. Hanna-Kinder

Then there are the ones who fall into the ranks of the truly gifted teacher--the one who magically reaches all the students, motivating performance high above the expectation. As I review Casey's school years, I am so pleased to realize that he has had at least 6 teachers who fall into this category--and there are two more candidates in his current 7th grade schedule. He has been fortunate.

Mrs. Kang-2nd Grade

One of this year's crop is his advanced algebra teacher (yes, in 7th grade--when did we/you take it?) Last year the other of his two poor teachers was his advanced pre-algebra teacher who managed to demoralize Casey, he who at one time scored 600 out of 600 on the state math test, into doing so poorly that he was not recommended for the sequential 7th grade class--advanced algebra.

I lobbied with the vice-principal and counselor to put him into the class anyway, convincing them he deserved the chance. They struck a deal with him that if he did not have at least a B by the end of the first 6 weeks, he would need to repeat pre-algebra.

Mrs. Johnson-5th Grade

And this is where the new candidate for exceptional teacher comes into play. His algebra teacher has him turned on, excited and confident. He is currently carrying a 103.9% average for his work. She is the antithesis of his 6th grade teacher.

Yes, a teacher can make a great difference. We expect kids to have good attitudes but forget that often they will simply reflect the attitude of the adult at the front of the room.

Maestra Anna Maria and Agatha 3rd Grade Italy

And...I believe that he may well have two more such teachers in his life this year. If so, he is a very lucky boy.

The pictures on this post are of those teachers who have made a positive difference in Casey's life. I say thank you to each of you and know that your legacy lives in him.

Trying Something New.......

2010-10-03T20:54:00.001-07:00

Blogging from the iPad has had some limitations. A major one being not able to post photos to an entry. Another was not being able to compose off-line.

Well, tonight I learned through a friend about a couple of apps that blow away these problems. Thanks, Roz. These two are so cool!

I am composing this off-line using the app Blogpress. When I am through I will have the option of saving it as a draft to be posted later or posting it immediately to my regular blogspot blog.

Because I am testing various program features, I am uploading a random picture currently in iPhotos on my iPad. Let's see if it works.

Meet Jordan and Justin beginning their terrible twos.

This has been an experiment. Hopefully, successful.

Yes! It worked!

Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Nary a Prophtess in Sight

2010-09-28T14:51:00.000-07:00

When you are my age--not quite ancient--you have had a variety of previous lives. Some quite forgettable, some equally memorable but most just the stuff of which our years are made. Somehow during that time we progress from infant, to child, to adolescent, to young adult, to mid-life and beyond.

In one of my lives I was an educator and, I like to think, a good one. I began in junior high school (this was before the transition to middle schools) where I taught English and for a brief period, social studies. Classes were strictly divided by ability--high, medium and low; although in an effort to fool the kids and parents, they were called x, y, z. Interestingly, these levels usually differed in color.

Classes ran about 40 or so; desks were in straight lines from front to back; the worse rule infraction was an occasional gum chewer; seldom was a student "sent" to the office; parents arrived in droves for open house and much learning was rote. Yes, this was a long, long time ago, for sure.

I arrived on the cusp of change and so soon my classes sat in semi-circles; students were allowed to dialogue which introduced noise; rote, except for spelling, gave way to inquiry and debate; personal interpretation of what the author may have meant overshadowed multiple-choice. We began to teach our kids to think independently, creatively. They even were allowed to do the unthinkable--question the teacher.

One of the areas with which I met success was helping students learn how to write--well. This was before the days of "random" writing where kids learned to write in the absence of learning structure, sentence variation, grammar or anything else that might restrict creativity. In my mind, these were the lost years of instruction as witnessed today by the number of "grown-ups" who have difficulty creating the written word. Bizarrely, at this career point, I was an administrator and so was tasked with making certain that teachers taught this free-thought writing approach.

It is totally possible and a reasonable expectation that students write well structurally and still be creative and mesmerizing--a la the great writers. Fortunately, the pendulum has swung some and teachers now focus on creativity and style. Unfortunately, many of these teachers are a product of the "lost years" and so are having to do some catch up themselves. This is not a huge problem as all that I knew about writing and the teaching of writing I learned as I taught.

Anyway, all of the above is lead-in to my current failure.... Casey. He has no interest in my stored wisdom as he writes for his English class. He clearly labors under the thought that I can't possibly understand what he and his teacher know. Having thrown at him the totally logical thought that we pay for his Italian and algebra tutors, but that he has a free English tutor, you would think he would be thankful. No! He turns his back.

In a way it is simpler; I can just turn him over to Mr. Silvestri and not worry --forget that my very insightful input might help his grade--no matter. Yes, life gets easier sometimes if you just let go.

It has been said: "I tell you the truth, no prophet is accepted in his hometown."
Luke 24:4

The hometown is right here.

Super Good Fish Tacos

2010-09-11T20:47:00.000-07:00

Yep--another recipe from non-Dolly Domestic. Truthfully, I am much more at home writing about Kenya or Italy or Casey or SP than I am about cooking; however, once in awhile I do have some culinary star to share. Such is tonight. This was our second time with these and we loved them both times--even Casey--he who doesn't like much. The sauce is what makes these a cut above others.

Crispy Fried-Fish Tacos
1/2 cup mayhonaise
1/4 cup hoisin sauce
1 tablespoons sweet pickle relish
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 pound tilipia fillets, cut into 4 by 1 inch strips
2 large eggs, beaten
3 cups panko

Shredded cabbage
Lettuce leaves
Cilantro
Sliced Scallions

Directions

In a bowl, whisk the mayonaise with the hoisin sauce, relish and lemon juice.
In a large, reusable plastic bag, combine the flour, garlic and onion salts and white pepper. Seal bag and shake. Add fish and shake to coat.
Dip fish in the egg and then in panko. Transfer to wax paper.
In a deep skillet, heat the oil to 350°. Fry fish over moderate heat, turning once, until golden. Drain on paper towel.
Serve fish with warm corn tortillas.

Garnish with hoisin sauce, shredded cabbage, shredded lettuce, cilantro and sliced scallions.

And, as usual, I forgot about taking pictures so just use your imaginations. You can send me a photo when you make them. They are yummy!

From: Food and Wine, 2010

Amboseli-The Last Adventure

2010-09-06T10:43:00.000-07:00

Last stop on safari--Amboseli National Park. We really weren't ready for our grand adventure to end but what can you do?

What we did was enjoy each moment left to us--savoring each landscape, each sunset, each wildlife sighting. Mt Kilimanjaro shone for us each morning as we opened tent flaps; Masai children greeted us with smiles and song.

We arrived to this wonderland on a small Cessna--just big enough for the pilot and we three. Casey, in the co-pilot's seat, peered out the window at the animals below-not sure that this was all going to end well.

Landing completed this very cool experience as there, in the middle of the bush, was a shack, a vehicle and our driver with cold drinks and treats. Soon a chief from one of the scattered Masai villages arrived on his motorcycle welcoming us to the Amboseli Bush. We were in a world far from our own.

After another 45 minute drive over boulders, bush and ruts, we arrived at our new oasis--Satao Elerai--a beautiful, camp, seemingly arising magically from nowhere. Below us was a water hole being visited by a herd of elephants. Birds filled the air. It was warm and silent and majestic.

That afternoon we visited a Masai boma (village) which was similar to but different from the Samburu village we had been in earlier on the safari. The huts were a little more refined, the layout a little more communal. Daily life though was about the same--wood gathering, games, school for the children, basket and jewelry making. Life is hard but routine.

Satao Elerai leases its land from the Masai community and works with the villages through The Satao Elerai Community and Wildlife Trust in efforts to protect the wildlife and eco-systems in that area. The trust also provides clothing and medical help to the people of the boma we visited.

The next three days we saw the animals of the bush--elephants, giraffes, lions, buffalo, birds and more. Although we had seen such animals many times by now, the thrill hadn't left. Each new encounter was as awesome as the first time. How can watching an elephant community in their own environment, relating and interacting oblivious to intruders become boring? No way...........

Does the ethereal beauty of giraffes ambling through trees and bush become mundane? I don't believe the Masai think so.

There was so much we saw, leaving us with vivid kodachrome memories. Here are a few more--samples of what is there. Really, you do need to go--it is unlike any vacation you have had before! This was our second, Tanzania in 2002 and, I think, Botswana will be next.

We worked with Southern Cross Safaris in planning our individual safari; however, they do offer small group safaris, also.

I also recommend Menengai Holidays. Daniel is a delight to work with and offers quality programs.

Lake Nakuru--Baboons, Rhinos and More

2010-08-28T17:35:00.000-07:00

Lake Nakuru has just about everything in terms of Kenyan wildlife but what truly distinguishes it are the pink and white flamingos--sometimes upwards of a million covering the surface of the water, making it seem as if there is no lake. They stand in one legged splendor, bent over claiming the algae on which they thrive.

In recent years, the land around the lake has been designated as Lake Nakuru National Park. Not only is it populated by many species it is, importantly, a sanctuary for the endangered Black Rhino.

Actually, these are white rhinos--white rhino aren't white.

In the early 1900's there were several thousand Black Rhino in Africa but by 2004 the number had dropped below 2500. Poachers decimated the numbers as their horns were sought for many purposes, including by the Chinese who would pound the horns into powder to use to stimulate sexual stamina and fertility. The horns are also used to carve decorations and jewelry. Though poaching is now illegal in Kenya and other African nations, it continues to flourish as poachers, using AK-47s, seek out both rhinos and elephants.

One of our favorite memories of Lake Nakuru is the antics and delightful entertainment provided by the baboons--who seem to think that the world is theirs alone. They are the antithesis of solitary souls but instead form large family and community units. Children are watched over and tended to as in the most protective human family. Mothers patiently groom children and provide free transportation. We spent a good 15 minutes watching young ones playing on a tree root, looking just like a bunch of children playing on jungle gyms in the neighborhood park.

We were hoping that we would see the elusive leopard here--but, no such luck. Kept telling our guide his tip depended on his spotting one for us but in 13 days, that never happened. We did get a great lion shot though.

This park is not far from Nairobi and other larger towns and so it is a field trip destination for school children. There were many school buses in the picnic area--all the kids in their uniforms and being just as enchanted with the resident baboons as Casey was. Fortunately, the park is large enough that it isn't a matter of being behind a caravan of buses while exploring --that would be a rather not pleasant Disney Land feeling, I think. It is a pretty cool field trip, though.

Nakuru is a small park, unlike the Mara and Amboseli which comes next. We spent just one day there; however, we saw many many species--giraffes, warthogs, buffalo, zebra, rhinos,eagles, maribou storks, heron and more--but no elephants; they are not in Lake Nakuru Park. Also, missed the pythons which were in hiding that day.

Buffalo and Friends

Our Digs at Lake Nakuru

Gone Fishing...

2010-08-26T13:50:00.000-07:00

Actually, not fishing but in the mountains, in a cabin, in the woods. So can't resume Kenya till we get back. I love my iPad but it's not so hot for heavy word processing. Plus can't upload pictures--as it turns out, nothings perfect.

Casey and friend are having fun exploring and doing water things. Sure makes things easier for us when we don't need to be the playmates!!

Been cooking in most of the time, but, tonight--Sweet Basil Bistro. Need an Italian fix.

Ciao per adesso..

Heri ya Siku kuu!

2010-08-17T22:18:00.000-07:00

This was a big birthday year for Casey--his last before becoming a teenager; although, it often seems as if he is already there. I know that he and his friends are much more aware of life around them and incredibly more things claim their interests and passions than when I was 12 going on 18. The thing is I think that in many ways they may be less mature. As much as we try to minimize it and direct focus in many different directions, the "me" of life appears to be much more omnipresent.

Casey was almost a 4th of July baby but fortunately not. He has his own day and doesn't need to share it with the other newborn--the USA. Besides, the 4th is not my favorite holiday--too noisy, too hot, too exhausting. This may explain why he has celebrated his years in a variety of locations over the years--Ecuador, France, Italy-3 times, Hawaii and now Kenya. Next year it will be Italy again--but then that is like being home.

What a special place to have a birthday--Kenya--where you are surrounded by nature, God's creation--unpolluted, natural, and a feeling of oneness with that creation. Science says that life began in Africa so it is as if being at the beginning of time.

Casey's birthday had several memorable events:

Stopping at the equator line on the way to the airstrip. When we stopped, a Kenyan man demonstrated the opposite water movement on either side of the line. This was particularly interesting to Casey as he remembered being at the equator line in Ecuador.

Ecuador 2004-Birthday 6

Kenya 2010-Birthday 12

Flying low over the savanna with elephants, lions, giraffes, zebra below. It was a thrill to climb on-board the little plane, strap in, peer out the window and then land no-where. What a neat birthday experience!

This is so cool!

Having a herd of hippos as a welcoming committee. Once we reached camp, slushing around in the mud and making weird noises were the short of adorable hippopotamuses. Fun!

Finally, at the end of the day, Casey had his celebration. As we sat at our table in front of the fire pit, we heard a rhythm, a beat and a song and then, weaving in, came men and women of the staff, carrying the obligatory birthday cake. Something magical was in the air.

Aunt Mindy really surprised him.


Heri ya Siku kuu! Casey Boy

So it was a good day. I think he will remember 12. Wouldn't you?

Next: Lake Nakuru--flamingos and baboons. You'll love them.

Karen Blixen Camp and The Mara

2010-08-08T16:09:00.000-07:00

Wow, it's been over a week since the last post. Just taking life slowly, I guess. Among other things, I'm trying to figure out a way to get to Italy in October at something close to a reasonable airfare. Soon, travel will be the exclusive domain of the rich.

Back to Kenya and the wonderful, haunting Masai Mara. It is easy to close my eyes and transport myself back to the company of zebra and cheetahs --maybe that is what I did all last week? Hmm?

Our digs on the Mara were not too shabby. The Karen Blixen Camp, she of Out of Africa fame, is a luxurious, lush, safari elegant "camp" in the middle of absolutely nowhere. Until you are there, you can not see it as you bounce down a road which is no more than a path of rocks and mini boulders, jarring ruts and elephant dung. And..then you are there, being greeted with wide smiles as staff offers cool cloths to wipe the dirt off face, neck and hands and then gives you a wonderful cooling glass of fresh passion fruit juice to wash away the dust lodging in your lungs. You know that all is good.

We arrived on the Mara via plane, taking off from a relatively normal dirt airstrip in the town of Nanyuki but landing on a dirt field with nothing but a vehicle and guide Nixon to meet us. It was really pretty cool!


The later plane to Amboseli made this one seem large!

On the way to "camp," we were mesmerized by the flat, never-ending savanna with tall, tawny grasses blowing in the breezes, populated by hundreds of zebra and wildebeast. Nixon drove right through herds who seemed to be oblivious to us--we weren't fearsome like lions and cheetahs. They weren't interested in the strange Land Rover animal.

Reach Out and Touch

After being escorted to our tent and just leaving our duffels where the porters put them, we enjoyed a very good lunch--chefs in nowhere are very good and accomplished. Then we went on the first of several Mara game drives including early mornings, late afternoons, all day, and a sundowner.

A sundowner is when you leave camp just before sunset, drive out on the savanna where you can get out of the Land Rover, mingle with zebra and other animals (at a respectful distance), have tasty snacks, wine and soft drinks and watch the stunning beauty of the sun lowering and finally dropping below the horizon. The silence of the savanna is broken only by sounds of nature and rustling bushes.

Mingling


Awesome can not describe the impact on the soul

During our drives we saw herds of elephants, family units with the mother elephants taking care of their toddlers and teens and hundreds of zebra milling around at the river, deciding whether or not to cross. This was fun to watch as one would try and then step back while another would gather the courage to try. In the meantime these hundreds of followers are forming groups, regrouping not sure what to do. Finally, on this day, they decided the stars were not aligned right so in total herd mentality turned around and left, waiting for a more auspicious day. In the meantime, vultures by the dozens and crocodiles on the bank lie in wait for the certain tragic death of a hapless zebra.

This Day Vultures and Crocs are Foiled.

There are so many things I could write about: the half hour watching lions mate almost continuously (much to Casey's fascination), cheetahs chasing and playing, hippos basking in the sun with an occasional snort and foray into the water, topis posing grandly in the bush, hyenas searching for carrion, graceful giraffes loping along, more, more and more.

I could tell about the exquisite massage that totally eliminated the sore muscles and joint aches acquired in 7 days of safari travel. And then, there was the thrill of sitting on our tent porch and watching giraffes, elephants and gazelles parading by us on the other side of the river.

But, I am stopping now as this is getting too long to be read. Next I will tell of the after dark rules, Casey's birthday celebration and maybe something else that comes to mind.

So much of relating safari is in the pictures not the words. At the top of the blog is a link to my Flickr pictures which are just a few of all that were taken (8gb). This is a link to just the Mara pictures. The Mara

Don't forget that Casey is blogging, too. KZ on Kenya

The Masai Mara

2010-07-31T15:49:00.000-07:00

Wild, alive, beautiful, windswept, pure, dangerous, mournful, captivating—the adjectives are numberless in describing the Masai Mara. It is a land that has not changed much with time. Animals roam free sharing the land with the Masai tribal people and their cattle. Sometimes these two come in conflict. Such is the case when a lion attacks a cow or when the Masai retaliate. Cows are the livelihood and wealth of the Masai.

Masai Cattle Sharing Savanna with Zebras

In Masai tribal belief, God entrusted them with the cattle and gave them dominion over the cows. Thus the lion becomes the enemy. To stop the killing of the lions or other wildlife, while recognizing the autonomy of the tribes, the Kenyan government now replaces or pays for a killed cow or, if the cow is attacked and hurt but still alive, the government buys the cow for the meat.

The Masai are a proud, independent people and, in some ways, held in awe by the other peoples of Kenya. Our Masai guide, Nixon, who is well-educated, fluent in English, knowledgeable of the world, continues to live in his village when not working as a guide for the camp, in what most of us consider primitive conditions. When he visits Mombasa or Nairobi, he wears his tribal clothes with all his jewelry and adornments proclaiming his identity. There is great pride in proclaiming the Masai heritage.

Nixon is also a man with ambition and an understanding that the world is greater than his world. He is part of the generation that is bridging the two worlds. He had wanted to come to the United States to study wildlife management but could not obtain a visa so he has built new dreams. As he works as a guide for the Karen Blixen Camp where we stayed, he keeps his personal distance and yet demonstrates ease with us and our ways. It is clear that he is a man comfortable in his own identity and that he is making choices as to how he will blend his worlds.


Nixon Relaxing at Sundowner

Nixon knows the land of the Mara. It is his land. As we went out on our game drives, it would seem as if the vast terrain we were traversing was empty--where or why were we headed where ever. What or where was the goal? And then..........in front of us would be a pride of lions stretched out in the grass, occasionally rallying themselves for a quick mating ritual before laying back down. How did Nixon know where they were? He just knew.

And There They Were

He took us to cheetahs, zebras milling at the river--deciding whether to cross and concluding that tomorrow would be better, giraffes, elephant herds with dueling teenagers, elands, topis, wildebeasts, hyneas, vultures (in waiting for the zebras to cross.) It is all on the Mara!

Cheetah on the Prowl

One of My Favorites


Lilac Breasted Roller. See the locust?


Teenagers

Twins?

And...if you want more, you can take some time with this slide show--just a few of the 600+ pictures we took of the Masai Mara.

Next: Karen Blixen Camp and Caseys' Time on the Mara.

Sweetwaters--Ol Pejeta Conservancy

2010-07-27T22:02:00.000-07:00

From Samburu we headed onto Sweetwaters Tented Camp. Picture pup-tents? Stakes? Treks to the latrine? Wrong! We roughed it in a tent with a large king bed and a single bed for Casey (not a cot or hotel variety fold-up—a real bed.) Then there were the ensuite facilities—shower, loo, basins, storage area. And this was the least luxurious tenting we enjoyed. Sitting on our porch, we watched over the watering hole as the warthogs, gazelles, impalas and more wandered in to catch a drink.

We arrived tired, hot and ready to be pampered—which we were. After following the porters to our tent and washing up, we went to the dining area for an excellent lunch, including unexpected entertainment. Maribou storks are quite ugly birds but do invite close attention as they stand around on one leg with sad begging eyes much like irresistible puppy dogs. We had one such charmer staring in the window at us through the whole meal. Luckily it was not an open area as at Samburu or the slingshot warriors would be needed again.

After lunch came one of the more isolated experiences of our time. Although one doesn't often think of camels in East Africa countries, they are in the Samburan portion of eastern Kenya. They are used as pack animals. A year ago, Casey had his heart set on a camel ride in Morocco and then we didn't go. So, when the opportunity came up at Sweetwaters, there was no way we could let the moment pass. Right after lunch, he got his wish and off he went on Peter, the camel.

After this adventure, we went for a short game drive with two specific destinations in mind—a Jane Goodall chimpanzee sanctuary and a Black rhino sanctuary. The black rhino has been in danger of extinction which has prompted prodigious efforts to save them. Thankfully, success is at hand. There is one very special rhino there—Baracka—who was blinded, probably in a fight with another male. It is sad to see him wander aimlessly, his horn has been cut off for his own protection and his sides bloodied from rubbing against trees and other obstacles. He is well-taken care of and supervised.

We continued our game drive as we wended our way back to camp, seeing many animals—elephants, giraffes, impalas, gazelles, etc. At one point we saw many vultures circling around which is a good indication that there might be something worth seeing. And , indeed there was; although rather gruesome. The smell preceded the view--vultures gorging themselves on a dead giraffe. It was not nice but definitely part of the circle of life on the savanna.

That night the pace finally caught up with Casey who almost fell asleep at the dinner table--before the food arrived. I had to take him back to the tent and put him to bed where he fell fast asleep in a blink. I followed soon after.

The next morning he awoke as a 12 year old, immediately becoming mature, grown up, no more childishness.... It was quite miraculous! Scherzo!

We were on the road early as we needed to get to the airstrip in time for our plane to the Masai Mara. We saved the birthday celebration for that night.

On the way, we stopped at the equator line where we stopped for a demonstration of water flow. I think Casey is going to blog about that. He now has been at the equator line in both Africa (Kenya) and South America (Ecuador.) What a life!

Samburu National Reserve

2010-07-25T17:20:00.001-07:00

Finally, after six hours of less than luxurious travel, we arrive at the Samburu Game Lodge—tucked away down dry dusty rutted roads in the midst of the reserve. This is not the lodge where we were supposed to stay but a horrific flash flood in March wiped out several camps and research facilities as well as overpowering many animals and, more tragically, some people. This lodge had suffered some damage but was able to reopen rather quickly.

As we drove into the lodge area, our safari began. There before us, welcoming us or so it seemed, stood a herd of elephants—mothers, babies, teenagers—refreshing themselves in the river. We knew the adventure was beginning.

One of the Families

When we arrived, we had not eaten since our early breakfast in Nairobi so were quite hungry. Although, it was late in the day for lunch, the lodge was prepared and had some nice menu choices waiting for us. At this point, I should explain that food on safari is outstandingly good. We found that to be the case in Tanzania and it was just as true in Kenya. If it weren't for all the bouncing around on the non-roads, I am certain that gaining weight would be a problem.

The dining area at the lodge is completely open and thus invites vervet monkeys to scavenge for crumbs and any morsels unthinking guests might want to throw them. To deal with this, the lodge employs Samburu tribesmen with slingshots meant to discourage the invaders. The show is quite comical at times as the monkeys are very adept at eluding and reappearing. It seems as if the men are having as much fun as the monkeys.

Casey with the Samburu Slingshot Artist

You might think that the Samburan's dress is for atmosphere and show as it might be in a venue in the Europe or the US. But such a thought would be inaccurate. Tribal people often dress like this in everyday life--walking through the bush, in their villages, etc. Necklaces, earrings, chest decorations, head bands, bracelets and color are a part of their pride.

With that said, it is true that western clothes are also worn. Many of the young people have two identities. The one that is their cultural which is clung to and provides self and the other which is learned in school which begins the bridge between tribal life and the larger world. Heritage and tribe are fundamental to the people in the bush and so, even with a western style education, the return to the village calls.

Facing the Lion: Growing up Maasai on the African Savanna, a book I bought for Casey but which we all read, gives an understanding of this. It is the story of a Maasai man who moves between the world of his heritage and the world he lives in now as an educator in the United States. The longing for the village, the tribe, his home never leaves and so he travels back sometimes to live the life of the Maasai warrior and cattle rancher.

After lunch we took our first game drive which was just OK. Animals seemed to have taken off to other parts of the reserve and left just a few teasers behind.

And yet, as with every day, there was a highlight which made the scarcity worthwhile. As we turned down one rutted path, there to the side of us, was this gorgeous creature who obligingly sat and posed for several minutes before ambling off. We simply did not exist for him.

This was one of our "moments."

We spent another day and a half here before we headed on to Sweetwaters Camp which was a stop over on our way to the Mara. During this time we saw an amazing number of species of animals. We just didn't see them in large numbers--except for the small, adorable dik-diks which were innumberable.

As with each area we visited, there were some species that are only found in Samburu--such as the reticulated giraffe and giraffe gazelles.

The Reticulated Giraffe has very pronounced and distinct markings.

One of the highlights of our time in Samburu was a visit to a Samburu village where we were warmly welcomed by Peter and Ben who are well-educated and have dreams. They so typify the conflict between desiring college and exercising their intelligence and the almost unbreakable bonds with their tribe and way of life.

At the village the pre-schoolers sang for us, the men tried to teach Casey how to start a fire with sticks, Ben took us into his home and explained it to us and we bargained with the village chief for a slingshot for Casey. It was a very eye-opening experience for Casey.

This little slideshow gives a glimpse into our time in Samburu.

From Samburu we left for Sweetwaters Camp--coming next. Look for Casey's camel ride.

Link to Flickr Kenya Collection: Kenya Photo Albums

Still On the Way to Samburu

2010-07-21T21:45:00.001-07:00

Samburu National Reserve---6 hours of long, hard, bumpy, dusty drive from Nairobi. Much of it is interesting as we pass through what to our eyes are squalid villages with lean-to shacks housing businesses and homes. People mingle, mill and walk--intent on their purposes and destinations. Women line the roadways selling bags of charcoal freshly produced nearby from burning tree limbs. I wonder how many they sell a day--not many as each only has 3 or 4 bags. Surely the income cannot buy much.

Other women walk long distances to get water which they collect in small gasoline can size plastic bottles; then they face the long walk back. In some places there are water bores provided by the government. Here women congregate and talk while children play. We see most of these out in the bush where the Maasai live much as they have for decades. Other women balance baskets of bananas on their heads as they gracefully walk the road. Children in ill-fitting clothes play as all children do—laughing and having fun together, not realizing that theirs is a life of hardship. There isn't much stimulation or variety in what surrounds them.

However, Kenya now requires that all children go to school. Government and private schools dot the landscape. On school days we see uniformed, barefooted children walking many kilometers to reach their schools. A friend of mine here in the United States who is from Kenya has told me the educational system there is very good. Clearly, the educated younger generation is going to want more from life than their parents did. Will that be good?

As we pass the shanty villages, it becomes clear that people are living in the modern 21st century world in spite of appearances of poverty and backwardness in time. A hand painted sign atop a topsy-turvy door proclaims computer repair services. Down the street stands another building where air blows through spaces between wall planks and dust swirls in the doorway. This business offers "clean copies and fax services as you wait."

Entrepreneurs manning small lean-to sheds selling specialized wares--here it may be candy and small goodies; there it may soft drinks--dot the landscape. Beauty parlors, butcheries, furniture sellers, shoe stores—all that is part of a sustaining community—are open for business. Like many countries, men congregate and discuss the day's business, world affairs, women, whatever. And as in almost every place in the world today, mobile phones seem to be de rigueur.

We pass many "hotels" that are puzzling at first because they are so small with flailing cloth blowing out the window and doorway. Andrew explains that they are really restaurants or more accurately little places to get something to eat or drink. More often than not men crowd around the building, spilling out the door, finishing a quaff of something—maybe the famous Kenyan coffee.

There is an established rhythm to life in these villages as well defined and meaningful as anywhere on earth. Love, happiness, weddings, children, disappointments, death, success and failure—they are all there. There is also hunger and illness and despair. Perhaps the abundance of small churches and larger tent meetings address these things and bring hope and acceptance.

**********

If you wonder about the lack of pictures to accompany the narrative, I don't have any. Often I would want to snap the camera as we passed by or stopped but I was governed by a sense that this would infringe on the dignity of the people. As I would pick up the camera and flip off the lens cover, it just didn't seem right. So, I have my visual memories which I've tried to paint in words.

I was going to write about Samburu but still haven't gotten us there yet….next time! And, there will be pictures.

On The Way To Safari

2010-07-19T13:46:00.001-07:00

Sometimes we're lucky and this trip was one of those times as all went according to plan in the getting there--in fact, even better than anticipated. Our flights connected perfectly, with most landing early. The luggage checked with United in San Diego arrived via KLM in Kenya. We had a 3 hour layover in Amsterdam which was tiring after the long flight from San Diego but with the adrenalin flowing, it wasn't that bad.

We traveled United business class from the US but had economy seats on KLM for the 8 hour flight to Nairobi, paying extra for economy comfort which provides a little extra leg room; however, once we settled in, it was pretty apparent that the extra legroom wasn't all that generous. It certainly was a far cry from business. Then the most amazing thing happened.

As we settled in with our luggage stowed overhead and seat belts fastened, an attendant came to us and asked: "Are you the Parker party?" We confirmed that we were. She then handed us new tickets, saying "you may move to the next cabin." So, we found ourselves in the totally lush setting of KLM World Business class which is a blend of what would be business and first on a United 747. We still have no idea why we were so lucky. We have no history with KLM, no miles, no nothing. We were having one of those serendipity events that sometimes happen just when they are needed. Lay flat seats let us get some needed sleep--after enjoying a pretty sumptuous meal.

With this great windfall, we arrived to the sultry African air feeling much more refreshed than we might have. Our luck failed a little at this point as our luggage was about the last off the plane--a 747. We had a long wait for it and were just beginning to worry when our two lonely duffels came into view. Loading them on the dolly along with our carry-ons, we pushed through customs and found our driver/guide Andrew waiting for us.

From there was a 45 minute drive through Nairobi to the lodge where we were staying that night before beginning our safari adventure. This was our first introduction to Kenyan roads which can be pretty harrowing. If you have driven in Naples or have been to China, you can then have some appreciation of how they work.

The Safari Park Hotel was lush and beautiful; although, since we arrived there at 10:30 at night and had our wake up call at 6:30, we really didn't have a chance to enjoy it. After a good, huge breakfast, we climbed in the vehicle that became our home for the next 13 days and began our relationship with the man from Mombasa who became our guru and keeper and friend.

Next: The road to Samburu National Reserve and what we found there.

And...a sneak preview

From The Mara....

2010-07-07T02:48:00.000-07:00

Quick note only: Sorry no blogging while in Kenya. Too busy, too much fun, Internet connection in the bush too slow.

I'll write all about it when we get back. Having spectacular time.

Wish you were here :-)

Kenya Tomorrow

2010-06-29T11:46:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow we leave for Kenya but the getting there is a real drag. We arrive in Kenya 23:30 hours after boarding the first plane in San Diego. We go from here to Washington-Dulles (IAD); IAD to Amsterdam, hopefully, arriving in time for our KLM flight to Nairobi. Amsterdam is the main gateway to Kenya and Tanzania; however, it is also possible to go through France and the UK. The flight to Nairobi or Arusha is then longer.

In retrospect, I did not plan this well as we should have stayed in Amsterdam overnight and then onto Nairobi the next day. By the time I realized this and called United, the change in fare amounted to a shake-down so we elected to be tired.

We arrive in Nairobi at 5:30 pm, go to a hotel, hopefully have a good night's sleep and get up in the morning for the 4 hour drive in a Land Rover to Samburu National Reserve. The adventure begins.

A friend of mine asked if I would outline the details in preparing for a trip to Kenya--which were basically the same as those required when we went to Tanzania in 2002. There are three basic things that differ from preparing for Europe.

Visa: You need a visa which is easy. You simply fill out an on-line form and then mail your passport to an Embassy here in the United States. Your passport will be returned with the visa attached. Children under 16 do not need visas.
Shots: You will need yellow fever vaccination, typhoid vaccination, up-to-date polio, heb a and maybe hep b shots, and tetanus shot. Additionally you will be given maleria meds and meds in the event of severe diarrhea. In California, you must go to an infectious disease or travel doctor for the yellow fever and typhoid vaccines. But since most insurances won't pay for these doctors, we go to our regular doctor for the other shots. Be sure you do not wait until the last minute for the vaccinations.
Packing: Duffles are the way to go on safari. Hard sided luggage is not conducive to the type of travel and vehicles you will be using. You do not need an abundance of or fancy clothes. We basically rely on the zip off pants so that we can be warm in the mornings and evenings and comfortable in shorts in the heat of the day.

It is important to understand the seasons in Kenya and Tanzania. There are two rainy periods, one of which you really want to avoid. The "long rains" between March and May (or early June) are really when you do not want to be there. This year in March there was a terrible flash flood in Samburu, our first stop. Many of the lodges were completely destroyed as well as, and more importantly, a major elephant research facility. The lodge where we were scheduled to stay was destroyed. Fortunately, we were able to get into one of the few lodges left habitable. There are also rains in October and November but they are not as severe.

In preparation for the experience, we watched several movies: Out of Africa, Born Free, To Walk with Lions, I Dream of Africa, National Geographic films and some other documentaries. Because we are stopping in Amsterdam on the way back and taking Casey to the Anne Frank Haus, we also watched The Diary of Anne Frank.

There is another website which I have found fun to be a part of as we have planned. It is devoted to Africa and has been developed by a friend of mine, Nico Pannevis and his friend, both of whom grew up in Kenya. Their purpose is to preserve and support responsible growth in the country they love. The site is Bushdrums. Incidentally, many of you may know Nico as the famous and talented owner of Sant' Antonio in Montepulciano, Italy.

I am going to post pictures as we travel if the wi fi is strong enough--yes, there is wi fi in the bush! Well, at the lodges and camps anyway. If you are interested in following along with us visually, this is the link. Photo Gallery. There is a folder for each area we will be exploring. The photos there now are place holders I downloaded from the various camps where we will be staying. So, feel free to join us in the adventure.

From Our Tanzania Safari 2002

Gramma-Mom

2010-05-21T22:37:00.000-07:00

Frequently when someone learns that we are raising our grandson, the comment is "that happens so often these days." It seems that what used to be unusual is now common place. I suspect there are all sorts of sociological reasons that explain why grandma and grandpa are taking the parental role their children abdicate. Whatever, this is quite a reversal of traditional family dynamics when children took care of their parents as they aged and grew old. The world is becoming topsy-turvy in so many ways.

So? What's it like being a new mom well into retirement—a couple that just celebrated anniversary #48? Would it surprise you to hear that it isn't easy? But then, whoever said parenting was easy at any age? Suffice it to say that it is different now than it was then.

The biggest, most noticeable difference is that I have more time than I did the first time around. I always worked outside of the home. I left before the kids were up and at it. Ken did morning duty, making lunches, combing hair, making sure clothes were on right, getting kids out the door with clean faces, lunch box in hand.

Because I was a teacher, I was usually able to make it home not too long after the kids. At the age I was then, energy was more available and bounce back from the challenges of the day happened pretty easily. By the time I was an administrator, we were empty nesters (I loved that time of life) and so didn't have a conflict in roles. Well, except for Casey who came into our lives before retirement.

Now, with Casey, Ken and I are home 24/7, giving us plenty of time to focus—plus, he is just one munchkin.

Much to his growing consternation—since he is a "tweener", we are able to keep close tabs on him and the current love of his life—which a couple months ago was Pokemon but today is a girl. They are "in love." I have tried to explain to him that love does not happen at 11 and that he needs to save such important words for later. But….he isn't listening.

Middle school girls seem to be quite obsessive about communicating--constantly. I cringe when I realize what coming years will bring—that today's annoyance will fast become tomorrow's nightmare. Thank goodness for the need to have consequences—such as no telephone or e-mail privileges until grades improve or whatever else occurs requiring parental intervention. The good news right now is that his boyfriends still have first call on his time.

What I do know is that this parenting promises to become more and more difficult, demanding and all absorbing over the next few years. The taxi service has now begun—karate 3 times a week, church activities 2 times, baseball an excruciating 4 times plus back and forth to friends' homes. Then there are the mandatory trips to clothing stores as it seems he grows two inches a week and so his long pants are unacceptably above his ankles in no time. It used to be a quick trip to Target while he was in school worked—he didn't care what his shirts were or that his pants were not branded with a name. All of a sudden, Target is out and Tilly's is in. Carpenter pants are out and super skinny jeans are in. Payless shoes don't substitute for Van's.

I must step in right now to say that he isn't winning all these battles. Target still appears in his closet; his one pair of Van's (partially paid for out of his money) is supplemented by a no-name pair and all of his shirts do not say Elements or Volcom. Of course, he seldom elects to wear any of these—they don't come out until the hamper overflows and no-name is all that is left.

Today I find my support system in young women almost half my age. My personal friends are grandmas of the more traditional variety—have the grandkids for a while and send them home with mom and dad or mom or dad. Too much of the time I find I commiserate with parents whose lives are full of tweener activities—people who share my experiences--so different from the experiences my friends remember from days gone by.

There are many times when I dream of life as a traditional grandma—like my friends—the life I thought would be. Truthfully, if there were magic wands, I would wave mine and restore things to the "way they should be." But, I have no such wand and so choose to grasp the twists that life brings and find the joy. When you look for it, it's not all that hard to find. A smile—a secret—a confidence and best of all, shared laughter.

Don't You Just Love Spring?

2010-04-20T10:13:00.000-07:00

I do! And yet, this year we have only teasers. Here in always sunny San Diego, the sun plays a game of hide and seek. Just as I slide feet into sandals, the cold reappears and socks come out once more. Rain has become a thrice weekly uninvited guest.

But...when the sun does shine, how delightful it is. As in today! Sun shadows play in the yard, birds are everywhere, singing their songs, flowers sparkle and boast their colors. Scratch luxuriates in the warmth. Ken plants sunflowers. It is nice. And soon I will go walking.

Sun shadows play in the yard

Birds are everywhere

And here...

Scratch basks in the warmth.

Flowers drink the sun

And the water

And the charming humming bird flits from cup to cup

(My Italian friend Chiara, upon first seeing this delightful creature, mistook it for a big bug. They are not in Italy. I wonder if one can be found in Botticelli's Primavera?)

So today is a lovely gift from God and so too will be tomorrow's thunderstorms.

What To Do With Last Night's Salmon?

2010-04-14T12:05:00.000-07:00

Simple things in life excite me--safariing in Kenya, climbing the Great Wall of China, swimming in the Ecuadoran Amazon and....making a successful left-over dish--which was last night's ego builder. First, I am not much of a chef or even a cook. Sometimes I do wonders but other times am happy if whatever it is is edible. Certainly left-overs are not a forte and Monday was my first venture with salmon which is probably why I bought twice as much as needed.

Last night I didn't know what to do with a very good piece of left over fish and knew I couldn't reach friend Cindy in Alaska for pointers. So, I turned to the ever trustworthy internet for guidance. After sifting through lots of ideas, mostly for croquettes which I knew would not be received well, I found a recipe that sounded good and for which I, surprisingly, had all the ingredients on hand. It turned out to be a real find--good enough to feel the need to share. So here it is--straight from Gourmet by way of Recipezaar.

CAPELLINI WITH SALMON AND LEMON-DILL-VODKA SAUCE

Serves 4-6

1 onion chopped

1 TBS olive oil

3 cups chicken broth

1 cup heavy cream

1/3 cup vodka

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 cup dill, chopped (I cut back on this)

1 1/2 tsps. lemon zest

2 TBS lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 cups salmon-flaked (or whatever you have)

10 ounces capellini (angel hair)

In a large saucepan cook onion in the oil, over medium heat until soft (5-8 minutes)
Add broth, cream, vodka and salt and bring to a boil over medium high heat, stirring occasionally until sauce is reduced to 2 cups (45-60 minutes)
Remove from heat and still in dill, lemon zest, juice and pepper. Reserve 1/2 cup of sauce.
Add salmon to saucepan and cook over medium low heat until fish is heated through (2-4 minutes.)
Meanwhile cook pasta according to package directions.
Reserve 1/2 cup pasta water; drain pasta
Return pasta to pot and toss with reserved sauce and cooking water (I just did this in the bowl.)
Put pasta in large bowl and spoon fish sauce over top; toss before serving.
Enjoy

Now, not being a professional at sharing food or recipes I again committed a cardinal sin--no picture of the product. Among my foodie friends, this is a not to be forgiven mistake but what can I do?

Well, since writing this, I enjoyed some left over left over so--a picture.

Hope you like this as much as we did. Let me know.

An Old Soap Box

2010-04-12T08:43:00.000-07:00

Blogging lately has become a challenge as I don't have a focus--no living in Italy, no interesting travel observations, no current passion (in terms of opinions, that is,) no life upheavals--just day-to-day living which doesn't hold much excitement for me yet alone for someone else. So--it is a dry spell. Maybe things will pick up in Kenya a few months done the road.

But, then, I did see this today which perked the spirits and gave a smile. Since my great distaste for smarmy SP has not abated, this was sheer enjoyment. If TF would do more, then maybe SP would loss her appeal as she is left stripped and exposed.

Brothers

2010-04-06T10:51:00.000-07:00

Casey and brothers on Easter

CASEY

JORDAN

JUSTIN

They are a handful!

Today is Easter!

2010-04-04T00:00:00.000-07:00

THE TOMB IS EMPTY

I believe that the man Jesus was and is the Christ foretold in Isaiah of the Old Testament. He is alive and well today and sits at the right hand of God. He is waiting to be known by all who will acknowledge him.

A Taste of San Diego

2010-03-19T12:49:00.000-07:00

Doesn't everyone want to taste of beautiful, sunny, magical San Diego? Last weekend 70 adventuresome people did just that. Coming from England, Italy, Canada, Alaska, Hawaii and a bunch of the lower 48, we caroused, explored, ate, celebrated, laughed and even danced together. It was a spectacular weekend of friends uniting and reuniting.

Did I say Dancing?

And why did we all converge on San Diego? Well, because of a web site called Slow Travel and its companion site Slow Talk. These sister sites are two of the nets premier travel offerings where normal, everyday travelers help and aid each other in planning and dreaming. For close to 10 years now I have used this as my primary source in trip planning and in the process have made many good and fast friends.

During our year sojourn in Italy, many of our Slow Travel friends whom we only knew through cyberspace visited us--sort of like a stop on the pilgrims' way. We have also had these "get-togethers" in other parts of Europe and the United States. Without exception Slow Travel people prove to be good, fun, nice, delightful, special people. We come from all walks of life, religion, political persuasions and occupations, united by our love of travel and people--and food.

A year ago four of us started planning the second really big get-together--the first was two years ago in Savannah. Because of the magnitude of the event and the cost, we needed to have the venues identified and the general outline so that we could approximate the cost and announce it on the boards. People needed to plan early.

Meet the planning committee: Palma from Palm Desert, Shannon from Ocean Beach-San Diego, Marcia from South Pasadena and Me from San Diego

It was a fun year as the four of us (with our husbands who were the foot soldiers in this undertaking) met, sampled foods, checked venues, decided on wines and just got into it. To give credit, Shannon was the mastermind behind it all-a woman of vision and creative ideas.

The kick-off event was at our house Friday night. It was a wonderful evening, as people connected for the weekend. The weather cooperated and let us use our patio/pool area which was much nicer than only having the inside available. Palma, who is an accomplished party giver and chef, prepared the food which was not only delicious but visually stunning. How many have seen penguins made from cream cheese, olives and carrots for feet?

On the TV there was a continual slide show composed of pictures people had sent me of their travels. Throughout the evening there was a different combination of folks watching and pointing out friends who were not with us or their own special memories. It was fun.

Saturday night found us all at a real Mexican Fiesta with food by women who prepared foods native to their parts of Mexico. It was not the typical beans, rice and tacos that so often typifies Mexican food here in the US. We had a live band, two palm readers, a presentation of the Queen and her Court--Pauline the founder of Slow Travel and 4 of the original moderators in attendance. (Pauline has announced that she is now the Queen-Mum and the Queenship has passed to Kim.) Each of the court was presented with a lovely bouquet enclosing a bottle of exquisite Sant' Antonio Olive Oil--donated by Nico who came from Italy for the weekend festivities.

The weekend was capped off with a delightful brunch at the Island Palms Resort in a room overlooking the marina with hundreds of sail boats, big and little. The sun glistened and all was picture perfect. The mimosa bar was a popular hangout, of course. People talked and talked and talked--leaving much of the food untouched. The weekend was about over and there was so much to say to new and old friends before everyone departed for far away places. There is talk of where the next one will be--maybe Boston or New Jersey or ???. Before leaving, there was one last irresistible shot of those who had ordered very special glasses from Mindy. Those of us who did not order, wished we had.

Aren't they Great? Nico is there in front.

During the day, there were no official planned activities but many unofficial. People visited two California missions, safaried at the Wild Animal Park, meandered in Balboa Park and into its wonderful museums, kayaked in La Jolla, traveled to Niki de Saint Phalle Sculpture Gardens in Escondido and, most bizarrely, participated in Shannon's In-and-Out Burger and Wine Pairing event.

Ken and I spent our off event hours with Nico, showing him a little part of our world, including Casey's Little League game which to Nico was a baseball "match"--until someone set him straight. What fun to explain baseball to someone without a clue. But, he enjoyed it and went home with new learnings. Sunday he saw beautiful La Jolla even stopping for Italian gelato--US style. It was such a pleasure for us to have him here. His beautiful Sant' Antonio in Montepulciano is one of our most favorite places in this wide world.

So this is the weekend that was. It will be fondly recalled by all who attended and talked about as long as there is a Slow Travel. If you would like to see a photo shot of the entire weekend, this is a link to my Flickr pics. Taste of San Diego in Pictures (Be sure to click on slide show in the top right corner of the thumb nail page for each set.) Enjoy and join us at the next big GTG--wherever it is! I hope to see you there.